Installing a door side step on the utility rail

[LEE JONG HOE]

안녕하세요, 사진과 비슷한 유틸리티 레일에 도어 사이드 스텝을 설치해 볼 계획입니다.


사용하기 가장 좋은 유형의 L-트랙 볼트, 재료 또는 설치 방법에 대해 조언해 주시겠습니까?

 

[Jeremy996]

Korean to English gives:-

"Hello, I'm planning to install a door side step on a utility rail similar to the one in the photo.

Can you advise me on the best type of L-track bolt, material, or installation method to use?"

 

[anand]

One consideration, the utility rail is only rated to hold ~40kg on the door

 

[Logsplitter]

One consideration, the utility rail is only rated to hold ~40kg on the door

Good point that’s why it’s better to put a step on the hinges.

 

[BEM-S4]

Buzz and DVA both make one, I opted for the Buzz kit like the photo. Very happy with it. Note the factory bolts can be difficult to remove would advise having your dealer break them loose before attempting install.

 

[LEE JONG HOE]

Good point that’s why it’s better to put a step on the hinges. View attachment 7904657

Thank you for your response. I’ll have to think about it.

 

[LEE JONG HOE]

Buzz and DVA both make one, I opted for the Buzz kit like the photo. Very happy with it. Note the factory bolts can be difficult to remove would advise having your dealer break them loose before attempting install.

I’ll have to ask the dealer to release it.

 

[Logsplitter]

Buzz and DVA both make one, I opted for the Buzz kit like the photo. Very happy with it. Note the factory bolts can be difficult to remove would advise having your dealer break them loose before attempting install.

As you say they were bloody tight so have to make sure you have really good torx bits or they’ll snap.

 

[LEE JONG HOE]

One consideration, the utility rail is only rated to hold ~40kg on the door

Thank you so much for your advice.

 

[LEE JONG HOE]

As you say they were bloody tight so have to make sure you have really good torx bits or they’ll snap.

The paint on the screw could come off, and it might even break — it really gives me a lot to think about.

 

[Logsplitter]

From what I remember you put new screws on that come with the steps.

 

[BEM-S4]

The paint on the screw could come off, and it might even break — it really gives me a lot to think about.

One of mine was over-torqued from factory and had a lot of paint in the head, I stripped it and it took 3 master machinists at one of my factories half a day to get it out. I'd suggest either:

(1) get a 1/2 inch drive (or metric equivalent) T50 socket, use with a breaker bar (long socket wrench) and GO SLOW
(2) ask your dealer to break them all loose for you, after that it's very easy

I would suggest #2 option after that you're looking at a 10 minute install if that.

 

[BEM-S4]

This is the bolt shank after they finally got it out, had to drill the head off first. You do use new screws that come with the steps, your original ones will 100% have at least some marks on the paint when you are done. You can touch this up easily and worst-case scenario a new factory door bolt is under $10 USD.

 

[LEE JONG HOE]

This is the bolt shank after they finally got it out, had to drill the head off first. You do use new screws that come with the steps, your original ones will 100% have at least some marks on the paint when you are done. You can touch this up easily and worst-case scenario a new factory door bolt is under $10 USD.

I’m taking away so much valuable information. Thank you.

 

[BEM-S4]

I’m taking away so much valuable information. Thank you.

Happy to help. For reference I am 1.7m and by standing on the Buzz step, rear tire or rear bumper (I have the ladder as well) I can easily reach all but the very front of the roof. I went with three Leitner load bars, not rack, and can get at everything without trouble. I keep heavier or bulkier items e.g. Maxtrax on the rear bar because I can stand on the bumper with the rear doors open and load them without any risk of damaging paint.