Front Drive Shaft Update

[Dokatd]

I would also like to see a fresh one sliced in half. These are shaped in mold, and the if they wanted to control where the flex was occurring, the thickness would be tapered down in that area. Basically, I don't believe the thin part of the cross section is due to "wear". I don't believe material is just fluffing off, and it's not "extruding" as suggested because there wouldn't be molecular dislocation caused by elastic deformation. There's simply not enough heat being generated. I think its simply a case of the unit spends more time at an angle than the design allotted for, and the bonds are breaking causing a crack, and if there is any variability in the material that can cause a point of more focused elasticity, it's failing there, sooner.

You seem to know much more about material science than I do, so, how does that read as a simple explanation...

You're welcome to cut one up. But it will be a waste of money. As stated before, I have measured a new boot already. As well, the boots I have cut all have totally new features to them. These boots came from different vehicles with most boots being Tera but I have also looked at the stock boot post failure.

As for heat, sure the joint itself isn't heating up a ton, but that boot at the pinch location is certainly getting hot enough to allow the rubber to deform.

 

[Dokatd]

Actually Yes, because this could eliminate the boot pinching @Dokatd noted.

I think there is some misunderstanding here. You are correct Tom, if the metal flange was open more we would probably not be talking about this. But, the design is as such to allow installation and removal of the CV bolts. But there is some tolerance there that would allow a bit larger opening.

 

[ADVAW8S]

I would be surprised if the front geometry isn't exactly identical to the station wagon. So same problem .

It's exactly like the station wagon in the front. What I have noticed is the longer wheel base assist in keeping the truck tracking straight with a lower caster number. The lower caster number should based on what I have read here assist on longevity of the cv boot especially since I am running a zero lift and my rad flo shocks are OEM length.

 

[Tom109]

I think there is some misunderstanding here. You are correct Tom, if the metal flange was open more we would probably not be talking about this. But, the design is as such to allow installation and removal of the CV bolts. But there is some tolerance there that would allow a bit larger opening.

I may have to buy one and see how the boot’s flange is constructed. I’m wondering if it could be pressed a little wider without compromising the rubber adhesion.

 

[Clark Kent]

View attachment 7919700

I fixed my CV issue (with ChatGPT). Also lets the wife in easier without installing steps.

That looks like the daddy of a Rukus.

I was thinking something more subtle..

 

[Dokatd]

I may have to buy one and see how the boot’s flange is constructed. I’m wondering if it could be pressed a little wider without compromising the rubber adhesion.

You are on the right track. It can be done a bit for sure. But it will have to be done slowly and with plenty of lube. I'm going to regret that last sentence I'm sure.

The rubber is crimped not adhered.

Modifying the boots metal flange is plan B for me.

 

[Tenac]

That looks like the daddy of a Rukus.

I was thinking something more subtle..
View attachment 7919719

Put a standalone on that and 1000HP you got your self a real truck