Mine was those small lift springs and warranty denied with out even a thought to it. What would it matter, just be waiting around for another failure.
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Hey mate I’m meeting an engineer/designer and Saturday and will discuss this along with other ideas.I think @landmannnn 's idea of a strop/bracket bolted onto the sub frame has got to be good insurance until a fix is found. Then you can hopefully limit the damage and swap out the trashed joint for a replacement and continue on. If you have spares but the sodding thing has knocked the sh1te out of your gearbox and anything else within reach it doesn't help much. Would also perhaps help save human damage as well. Any engineers here want to make a killing on the forum shop, hell, I'd buy two!!!
I'm in the process of fabricating one. Actually not really in the process, just looked at the shaft and looked at some metal.I think @landmannnn 's idea of a strop/bracket bolted onto the sub frame has got to be good insurance until a fix is found. Then you can hopefully limit the damage and swap out the trashed joint for a replacement and continue on. If you have spares but the sodding thing has knocked the sh1te out of your gearbox and anything else within reach it doesn't help much. Would also perhaps help save human damage as well. Any engineers here want to make a killing on the forum shop, hell, I'd buy two!!!
In the last 20 years of 4wding I have always wanted and modified vehicles to get more flex not less
Seems not fit for purpose to me
Pretty definitive. We are just not seeing the high temps some thought. The joints do get pretty hot when fresh and new, but clearly they stabilize after break in.
I'm sticking with the boots extruding/pinching themselves at full or close to full suspension extension.
Slap a pair of limit straps about 1" shorter than the stock shocks and I bet you could go merrily down the road for an extremely long time.
Won't be as great off road but at least it's not going to blow up.
I also believe it is the only viable route if you want to mount more performing shock absorbers such as Fox or King as they are all longer than the original ones.This is the best “intermediate fix” I have heard of.
I'd prefer something more beefy than a circlip. We should not have to need it but clearly do at ghe mo!I think one possible solution to the problem of the shaft coming out of the CV joint is to replace the C-clip with a bolt like the one I posted earlier.
Why delegate such a risky and hard work to a C-clip?
The photo you posted is of an axleshaft. It still uses C-clips in both CV joints, and the "bolt" is the attachment to the hub.I think one possible solution to the problem of the shaft coming out of the CV joint is to replace the C-clip with a bolt like the one I posted earlier.
Why delegate such a risky and hard work to a C-clip?
The photo you posted is of an axleshaft. It still uses C-clips in both CV joints, and the "bolt" is the attachment to the hub.
we should engineer the thing to size everythingA retention bolt instead of a c-clip would certainly work better and last longer between failures but the core issue still remains. No matter what retention method is used the overall design of the front end is still allowing the impacts to it to take place. Given enough whacks the head of a retention bolt would eventually crack and fatigue as well I would think.
Just what I am planning on my little fabrication projectOthers have mentioned a driveshaft protection loop/hoop offering some level of containment should a catastrophic failure occur. How about a loop which simultaneously holds the Bowden cable out of the way and constrains the driveshaft should it fail? Seems like Agile’s Bowden cable bracket solution is almost halfway there… it would have to be a considerably more stout version of it though.
Nice!!! Share with the group once you get it all engineered out. If we can’t have a long lasting driveshaft fix for failing clips or boots at least we can possibly have some safety retention in place.Just what I am planning on my little fabrication project
What's everybody's thoughts about fitting a driveshaft retaining/safety loop?
They seem to be widely available often as a "universal" kit.
The position of the transmission cross member wouldn't make a difficult fit.
Just a random picture
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