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Front Drive Shaft Update

If you haven't changed the joint to a non sealed version then you are correct. But once you have changed the joints once then it's super easy to just swap joints real quick.
I made one step towards it - added an angle grinder to my trail toolset :)
 
anyone have pictures of what exactly it entails to swap from the factory cv to the terraflex cv?
angle grinder to get it off?
I posted a detailed description somewhere. I don't recall if I had pics. I still have the old one floating around my shop somewhere. But it really is pretty simple.

Happy to make a video if someone has one they want swapped and they want to ship it or drop it by here in Dallas.
 

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Scott Brady from Expedition Overland mentions IA "fixed" the front drive shaft issue. Given that this content was uploaded 5 months ago, was there in fact a documented front drive shaft update released by IA?

View: https://youtu.be/vLOskm23730?si=Kdv1twmTuCZr7qF1&t=1540
My new front driveshaft has exact same CV’s as the one that failed. The dealer said they are the same. Barring some news that the boot material has changed and we just can’t see that update, I don’t believe that it is fixed.
 
Of those who have fitted the Teraflex hi-angle, did you happen to notice if the throat of the coupling is wider than the standard Dana-Spicer coupling? I'm curious if a part of the problem is pinching of the boot against the coupling mouth at the 4 to 8 o'clock positions. Obviously the hi-angle CV needs to allow for more ball travel also.
 
My new front driveshaft has exact same CV’s as the one that failed. The dealer said they are the same. Barring some news that the boot material has changed and we just can’t see that update, I don’t believe that it is fixed.
My dealer advised "you wont have another issue" and "im not supposed to mention this" but the cv rubber is thicker
he may have been just placating me but...
 
Of those who have fitted the Teraflex hi-angle, did you happen to notice if the throat of the coupling is wider than the standard Dana-Spicer coupling? I'm curious if a part of the problem is pinching of the boot against the coupling mouth at the 4 to 8 o'clock positions. Obviously the hi-angle CV needs to allow for more ball travel also.
The Terra joint and the stock IG joint are virtually identical. There are minor changes in the stampings. But the throat for the shaft is the same more or less.

Mine has been going strong and I have basically stopped checking it.
 
Do I have to order four of the joints to get on the save side?
Can the joints be fitted on both ends of the shafts?

Regards
You can get away with one joint as a backup plus tools to change the first factory joint. That includes a grinder to remove the backing plate on the factory joint. But once you replace one then you will no longer need a grinder for that particular joint. Your next option is to proactively replace the front t-case side joint. This makes changing it on the side of the road in the future much easier. The joints do fit in all positions, but only the front T-case joint has proven to be problematic.

So no, you do not need 4 joints. Just get one or two depending on your vehicle use and desire to keep tools on board your truck.
 
I hate to wait for something that might happen and cause a breakdown.
I'm going to replace one joint of the front shaft before it comes to an issue.

B.t.w. this is one point I really apprechiate about this Forum! You can get assistance very quick and mostly very valuable!

Of course I'll buy a spare one!

Many Thanks!
 
I hate to wait for something that might happen and cause a breakdown.
I'm going to replace one joint of the front shaft before it comes to an issue.

B.t.w. this is one point I really apprechiate about this Forum! You can get assistance very quick and mostly very valuable!

Of course I'll buy a spare one!

Many Thanks!
I feel very similarly.
 
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