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External sockets and roof mounted switches.

Gaston the Grenadier

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Hi all.

Not being much of an electrical engineer, can you clarify that, with the Auxiliary electrical wiring and switchgear, the four external sockets are controlled by the four “EXT” switches in the roof panel?

Having fitted a roof rack, I’m now fitting a rear work light and an amber beacon (for work).
The trouble is, three of the four external sockets all appear to run off the EXT 3 switch, with the fourth socket running off one of the other EXT switches.

If there’s a connection fault in the roof panel or under seat fuse/relay bank, is this an easy fix, or should I leave it to my Ineos supplier to deal with it?

I’m now uncertain as to whether the NATO socket is live, or any of the other outlets.
 

DaBull

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Hi all.

Not being much of an electrical engineer, can you clarify that, with the Auxiliary electrical wiring and switchgear, the four external sockets are controlled by the four “EXT” switches in the roof panel?

Having fitted a roof rack, I’m now fitting a rear work light and an amber beacon (for work).
The trouble is, three of the four external sockets all appear to run off the EXT 3 switch, with the fourth socket running off one of the other EXT switches.

If there’s a connection fault in the roof panel or under seat fuse/relay bank, is this an easy fix, or should I leave it to my Ineos supplier to deal with it?

I’m now uncertain as to whether the NATO socket is live, or any of the other outlets.
Hi Gaston the Grenadier, That is the way it is set up to work. EXT 3 works 3 of the roof outlets so that they all power on at the same time and EXT 2 works the right front roof outlet. In regards to the NATO socket, that is another whole discussion. I would recommend using the search function in the forum by just entering NATO. Have fun with that one, not sure if that has been completely sorted out. DaBull
 

ADVAW8S

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You can always put a on/off switch between the light and the EXT DTP socket. Then you can control what goes on or off when EXT3 is on. Or you can pull the panel and re wire the connectors so that each switch controls what you want.
 

AnD3rew

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Hi all.

Not being much of an electrical engineer, can you clarify that, with the Auxiliary electrical wiring and switchgear, the four external sockets are controlled by the four “EXT” switches in the roof panel?

Having fitted a roof rack, I’m now fitting a rear work light and an amber beacon (for work).
The trouble is, three of the four external sockets all appear to run off the EXT 3 switch, with the fourth socket running off one of the other EXT switches.

If there’s a connection fault in the roof panel or under seat fuse/relay bank, is this an easy fix, or should I leave it to my Ineos supplier to deal with it?

I’m now uncertain as to whether the NATO socket is live, or any of the other outlets.
If you just want a rear work light and an amber beacon I would recommend using either of the two rear sockets for the work light, and the front right for the amber beacon. Then ext 2 will operate your beacon and ext 3 will do the work light.
 

Gaston the Grenadier

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Thanks very much for the information guys.
That’s saved me an embarrassing rant at my unsuspecting Ineos supplier.
I’m going to have a closer look at the switch offerings in the panel and determine just what is actually available as opposed to what I thought/assumed.

My Amber beacon will indeed remain on EXT2 but I’ll need to fit a switch for one of the rear lights as they’re both going to be controlled by EXT3.
One is a reversing light, the other a less powerful work light, so I’ll not want to use both at the same time.

As for the NATO plug, I’ll check the forum as advised.
Thanks again.

Gaston.
 

ADVAW8S

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Could you wire the reversing light to your reverse taillight. That way when you put the car in reverse it goes on?
 

DenisM

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Would require a relay somewhere
Provided (a) the relay is diode equipped to protect the circuit from voltage spikes ; and (b) its switching circuit doesn't draw more (milli) amps than the relevant ECU is "expecting" thereby triggering a warning fault....
 

douggie

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Hi all.

Not being much of an electrical engineer, can you clarify that, with the Auxiliary electrical wiring and switchgear, the four external sockets are controlled by the four “EXT” switches in the roof panel?

Having fitted a roof rack, I’m now fitting a rear work light and an amber beacon (for work).
The trouble is, three of the four external sockets all appear to run off the EXT 3 switch, with the fourth socket running off one of the other EXT switches.

If there’s a connection fault in the roof panel or under seat fuse/relay bank, is this an easy fix, or should I leave it to my Ineos supplier to deal with it?

I’m now uncertain as to whether the NATO socket is live, or any of the other outlets.
Hi,

There is a really handy pocket book for the Grenadier that explains the connections and switches (pages 15-19)

https://www.theineosforum.com/resources/grenadier-pocket-guide.11/

EXT4 covers the winch and the NATO socket at rear (NATO plus for external winch - sam limiting factors as running the winch) - not the feed and controlling relay for the Nato socket is in the right hand back panel of the boot and ist possible to tap your own circuits off here with high current capability

EXT1 EXT5 go to under the bonnet

leaving EXT2 right side front and EXT3 - the other 3 roof connectors

Regds Doug.
 

AnD3rew

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Would require a relay somewhere
Don’t know how the Grenadier would react, but I just jumped a wire off the reverse light wire on my last car (Mistsubishi) to a small light bar for an auxiliary reverse light, no relay no nothing. Worked fine.
 

Lord Ripon USA

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Don’t know how the Grenadier would react, but I just jumped a wire off the reverse light wire on my last car (Mistsubishi) to a small light bar for an auxiliary reverse light, no relay no nothing. Worked fine.
How did you ground the reverse light?
Permanent mount?
I would use the internal reverse lamp feed to trip the relay. Power for the light bar taken from the external connector.
I guess it depends on how much amperage you can pull out of a rear tail light.
 

Gaston the Grenadier

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Thanks for all the useful tips and hacks.

I’m going to use EXT 2 for my reversing light, as well as for my Amber beacon. I only need the beacon when I’m on particular sites, so I’ll leave the reversing light plugged in for most of the time. I might even get a rechargeable beacon if they conform to regs.

My working light will remain on EXT3, leaving the other two outlets on the same circuit spare.

I’m not confident enough to go hacking around my wiring, and also reluctant to employ an electrician for the day, as I’ll probably go queer when he invoices me. I’ll work with what we’ve got, which is pretty good in all fairness, particularly with the two leads under the bonnet. Very useful.

I’m tempted to put INT 1&2 to use, but currently don’t really have a need for them yet.

Thanks again.
 

AnD3rew

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How did you ground the reverse light?
Permanent mount?
I would use the internal reverse lamp feed to trip the relay. Power for the light bar taken from the external connector.
I guess it depends on how much amperage you can pull out of a rear tail light.
Just a permanent ground to the body. It seemed to deliver enough amps. A small 3 led lightbar doesn’t draw much.
 
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