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How wet is your differential case?

ecohen2

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Grenadier Owner
Local time
12:24 PM
Joined
May 16, 2024
Messages
234
Location
Boulder, CO, USA
I was just doing a routine check of my Grenadier this afternoon and noticed that both the front and rear had a trail of oil and a larger pattern on the case. I know a small amount is ok, but is this too much?




IMG_0115.jpeg
 
I'm no expert but I would assume any is too much when its supposed to be sealed inside. lol Mine is dry still knocking on wood.
 
I'm on my 4th front pinion seal (2nd with neutral breathers installed) and it still wetter than a athlete's foot!
I'm starting to think that perhaps not all 4 seals have been faulty or incorrectly installed, and it is/was no longer a crap breather design - perhaps it's a deeper problem concerning the cast of the diff housing itself. Conspiracy theories abound!!

Either way, it should not leak and once a few more service points come on line nearer to me I'll try a 5th one. In the meantime checking levels front and rear, standing by ch16.
 
Has anyone checked what the repair manual states? There are cases where the seals have to be mounted dry. No grease should be used. One example is the crankshaft seal of the Land Rover Td5 engine. The seals come pre-coated and using grease leads to problems.

Maybe not every mechanic is aware of that, if that applies.

AWo
 
Has anyone checked what the repair manual states? There are cases where the seals have to be mounted dry. No grease should be used. One example is the crankshaft seal of the Land Rover Td5 engine. The seals come pre-coated and using grease leads to problems.

Maybe not every mechanic is aware of that, if that applies.

AWo
That could certainly be the case as not every mechanic knows the correct fill depth for the diff oil also.
 
You may recognize them as they often have a mounting aid, which is removed after mounting the seal.

AWo
 
Has anyone checked what the repair manual states? There are cases where the seals have to be mounted dry. No grease should be used. One example is the crankshaft seal of the Land Rover Td5 engine. The seals come pre-coated and using grease leads to problems.

Maybe not every mechanic is aware of that, if that applies.

AWo
The procedure doesn't call for a lubricant around the outside face of the seal. The inner face must be lubricated with Kluberplus S06-100 gel. I assume this is the surface that the pinion flange runs on.
It also says to use an applicable seal driver. No mention of a special tool.

IMG_0127.jpeg
 
The mounting aid is pre-installed on the seal, it is not a tool, it protects the seal. When you're finished mounting the seal you take it out and the seal gets into contact with the surface.

Can look like this (yellow part):

IMG_5380.jpg


But, what I said was just a guess. Could have been...

AWo
 
When Harwoods installed mine there was a special tool that was used to install it - like a bearing puller but in reverse. No mounting aid attached to the new pinion seal(s). Did not spot any lubricating.
 
On these repeat offender leaking seals any bets on whether or not a special tool was used for install? Or alternatively, was the more conventional big socket/pipe and mallet brute force method used? If these are indeed complicated cartridge style seals with multiple elements I could easily see them being damaged if not installed properly. Doesn’t explain why so many are leaking in the first place but rough handling of a replacement is going to create continued problems as well.
 
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