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Goose Gear Systems for the Grenadier

Hello all,

Brian from Goose Gear here to say hi.

We got our Trialmaster just before Christmas and have just under 1000 miles on it. It definitely has some quirks, but I still love it.

We have big plans for the rig and it will be at all of the Overland Expos as well as a few other places.

We’re going to corner scale the vehicle this weekend and will post the weights of each corner. This is a new process for us that we’re excited to begin doing for all vehicle interiors we design.

Later of course we will cut off the roof and install the upcoming AluCab pop top.

Hope to see you on the trail someday.

Brian

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GooseGear

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You asked and we listened. We had talked about marking the rear plate for users to reinstall their factory tie down rails to the top of our plate system. But in reviewing the idea, we decided that instead of adding more anchor points in the top of our plate. We are now going to include additional hardware that is longer so that you can install the rail on top of our plate and simply sandwich our plate between the rail system and the floor of the vehicle. This is a standard option and all rear plates with come with the additional longer bolts.

If we were to add additional anchor points in the top of our plate and they were not in line with the factory bolts, it could cause the plate to flex if a user had gear stored and they used a ratchet strap or some other force multiplying device to secure their cargo. So we opted to use the factory anchor points and simply provide longer bolts. This will be far superior to the alternative.

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DaBull

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You asked and we listened. We had talked about marking the rear plate for users to reinstall their factory tie down rails to the top of our plate system. But in reviewing the idea, we decided that instead of adding more anchor points in the top of our plate. We are now going to include additional hardware that is longer so that you can install the rail on top of our plate and simply sandwich our plate between the rail system and the floor of the vehicle. This is a standard option and all rear plates with come with the additional longer bolts.

If we were to add additional anchor points in the top of our plate and they were not in line with the factory bolts, it could cause the plate to flex if a user had gear stored and they used a ratchet strap or some other force multiplying device to secure their cargo. So we opted to use the factory anchor points and simply provide longer bolts. This will be far superior to the alternative.

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Hi Brian and Jon, I like the floor plate with the rails. Are your thoughts that the rails would be pulled out if one wanted to install drawers or are your thoughts that there might be a drawer version that would set in between the rails or perhaps free span over them. Perhaps I am over thinking this, which would not be the first time. DaBull
 

Loc Nar

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You asked and we listened. We had talked about marking the rear plate for users to reinstall their factory tie down rails to the top of our plate system. But in reviewing the idea, we decided that instead of adding more anchor points in the top of our plate. We are now going to include additional hardware that is longer so that you can install the rail on top of our plate and simply sandwich our plate between the rail system and the floor of the vehicle. This is a standard option and all rear plates with come with the additional longer bolts.

If we were to add additional anchor points in the top of our plate and they were not in line with the factory bolts, it could cause the plate to flex if a user had gear stored and they used a ratchet strap or some other force multiplying device to secure their cargo. So we opted to use the factory anchor points and simply provide longer bolts. This will be far superior to the alternative.

View attachment 7844009
Looks great and this does appear to be a better idea. Is installation of the new rails essential to installation of the rear plate? I'm also curious about whether they would be compatible with a drawer system or kitchen slides. Also, what is that rectangular black folding hinged right behind the driver's seat?
 

GooseGear

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Hi Brian and Jon, I like the floor plate with the rails. Are your thoughts that the rails would be pulled out if one wanted to install drawers or are your thoughts that there might be a drawer version that would set in between the rails or perhaps free span over them. Perhaps I am over thinking this, which would not be the first time. DaBull
Personally, I do not like the rails where they are, but I do understand why they are there. In a perfect world, they would be as close to the wheel wells as possible. Where they are creates a dead space outside of the area between the rails, effectively reducing your storage space width.

There are anchor points along the perimeter of the Goose Gear Rear Plate which you can easily add Goose Gear Anchors to that are at the furthest points apart. As for making modules that are designed to fit within the space between the rails, in my opinion it would be a waste of usable space.
 

GooseGear

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Looks great and this does appear to be a better idea. Is installation of the new rails essential to installation of the rear plate? I'm also curious about whether they would be compatible with a drawer system or kitchen slides. Also, what is that rectangular black folding hinged right behind the driver's seat?
See comment above about the rails.

Good catch on the rectangular piece at the front. There are actually two of them, one on the driver's side (visible) and one on the passenger side (folded down and out of view). In our Park Series line, we call them "Pillows". They are extensions that you can fold flat and add a strap to hold them up using the headrest on the front seats. They are 8" long and make the rear sleeping area 74-5/16" long (1887mm) so now with them in position you have a platform that is just over 6' long and comfortably usable for most persons. They are an add on option as some people will not make use of them, particularly vehicles that are going to use a pop top interior that we are designing. We are including the hardware so that the end user can decide if they want them to fold up or fold down. There are pros and cons to either option.

Small IMG_1385 Pillow.jpg
 

GooseGear

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Thanks. So, just to be clear, installing the L track on top of the rear plate is optional and not required for proper installation of the rear plate?
Yes, you are correct. Sorry, I forgot to answer the main question.
 

TWExplor

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See comment above about the rails.

Good catch on the rectangular piece at the front. There are actually two of them, one on the driver's side (visible) and one on the passenger side (folded down and out of view). In our Park Series line, we call them "Pillows". They are extensions that you can fold flat and add a strap to hold them up using the headrest on the front seats. They are 8" long and make the rear sleeping area 74-5/16" long (1887mm) so now with them in position you have a platform that is just over 6' long and comfortably usable for most persons. They are an add on option as some people will not make use of them, particularly vehicles that are going to use a pop top interior that we are designing. We are including the hardware so that the end user can decide if they want them to fold up or fold down. There are pros and cons to either option.

View attachment 7844172
Having the ability to directly communicate with a manufacturer during their R&D process of new products is simply incredible.
The rear interior trim panels (especially the left driver’s side rear) seem to hold a lot of possible useable space. Especially if the bottle jack and the 400w inverter were relocated. In trying to visualize a build that incorporates things like a compressor, water tank, heater, etc, I have thought that those trim pieces would need to be removed. Their removal might also free up valuable drawer or inside bench space for any pop up interior design layout. I have already preordered the roof conversion so the complete interior remodel is planned.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciate.
 

GooseGear

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Having the ability to directly communicate with a manufacturer during their R&D process of new products is simply incredible.
The rear interior trim panels (especially the left driver’s side rear) seem to hold a lot of possible useable space. Especially if the bottle jack and the 400w inverter were relocated. In trying to visualize a build that incorporates things like a compressor, water tank, heater, etc, I have thought that those trim pieces would need to be removed. Their removal might also free up valuable drawer or inside bench space for any pop up interior design layout. I have already preordered the roof conversion so the complete interior remodel is planned.
Any feedback would be greatly appreciate.
We pulled off the panels in the quarters and there was not much room. But I’m going to take another look and see if it’s worth the grind. Thank you for the input.
 

GooseGear

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Sorry for the lack of posting. As mentioned in the GG build thread. We are moving Goose Gear to Grand Junction CO and I have been travelling back and forth from CA to CO endlessly. We are still moving forward with designs and products and in the other post I updated the same info as here but a little bit more detailed over on the Build Thread.

Second row deletes will begin shipping in a couple of weeks. We have added future attachment points to the design to future proof it as best we can. Head on over to the Build Thread for more details. Thank you all for your support and we cannot wait to get you your gear and get your feedback.

Thank you,

Brian
 

GooseGear

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Today we will be completing the final test fit of the second row 100% delete plate. Production will begin tomorrow and anyone waiting for their seat delete should receive it in the next few weeks. Thank you very much for your patience. We just want it to be as close to perfect as possible and with room for future expansion. In the background is our “old” delete, the new model has 12 additional anchor points.

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