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For those inclined to change their own oil, FCP Euro (USA) has an oil change kit (7 liters of the correct BMV oil and the correct oil filter, o-ring, and drain plug gasket for about $132.00. Because it’s a Grenny, everything is more or less in easy reach.
You will need:
1) Socket wrench and 17mm (drain plug) and 32mm ( oil filter cap) sockets.
2) Possibly a socket extender and universal joint
3) torque wrench
4) rags
4) 6.5 liters 0-20W, ACEA C2, BMW LL 17FE ( from Grenadier manual), new filter, o-ring, and drain plug copper washer. (Note… several owners have noted that you will in fact need a bit more than 7 liters to fully replace the oil.. better by an extra liter and save the remains for the next oil change as well.)
The #1 Online Source for Genuine, OE, & OEM European Replacement Car Parts since 1986. Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping, and Unlimited Returns Call: 1-860-388-9001
Different manufacturers have different recommendations. I recall buying a new car a while back and I talked to the service guys, and told them I was going to change the oil after 500 or maybe 750 miles, to eliminate any metal shavings from the engine in those first few hundred miles. They told me that (1) newer engines don't drop shavings the way older ones did, and (2) the oil installed from the factory is a different blend - specifically designed for the first few thousand miles, and that I should wait until at least 2,000 miles before draining it. I don't know if that was true, but I waited until 2k. It would be nice if there were a bunch of Ineos-trained Grenadier techs available. In the mean time, I'd talk to some BMW techs and see what they recommend. In any case, no way I wait 12,000 miles.
Has anyone waited to change the oil as the maintenance Ineos schedule is? (12.000 miles). I’m at 4.200 miles and haven’t done the oil change yet. Just curious..
Has anyone waited to change the oil as the maintenance Ineos schedule is? (12.000 miles). I’m at 4.200 miles and haven’t done the oil change yet. Just curious..
For those inclined to change their own oil, FCP Euro (USA) has an oil change kit (7 liters of the correct BMV oil and the correct oil filter, o-ring, and drain plug gasket for about $132.00. Because it’s a Grenny, everything is more or less in easy reach.
You will need:
1) Socket wrench and 17mm (drain plug) and 32mm ( oil filter cap) sockets.
2) Possibly a socket extender and universal joint
3) torque wrench
4) rags
4) 6.5 liters 0-20W, ACEA C2, BMW LL 17FE ( from Grenadier manual), new filter, o-ring, and drain plug copper washer. (Note… several owners have noted that you will in fact need a bit more than 7 liters to fully replace the oil.. better by an extra liter and save the remains for the next oil change as well.)
The #1 Online Source for Genuine, OE, & OEM European Replacement Car Parts since 1986. Lifetime Replacement Guarantee, Free Shipping, and Unlimited Returns Call: 1-860-388-9001
The nice thing about FCP is their lifetime replacement guarantee. You can return used oil, filters, etc for a full credit to your account. You only pay return shipping, which costs me about $35. With a cost of only $35 I do my oil changes every 3-4k miles. Did that on my LR3 and LR4 and will do the same on the Grenadier.
For those of you wanting to change your oil at BMW’s recommend 12,000 mile extended change intervals, please do your due diligence and research the long term negative effects on your BMW engine. There’s plenty of easily accessible information online demonstrating conclusively why this is not a good idea.
You’ve spent a King’s ransom on a great machine. If you plan on keeping it for the long term, you should consider the cost of paying for simple oil changes at least every 6,000 miles ($) (or better yet every 5k and time it to the odometer lining up at “x0,000”, “x5,000” etc so you can easily remember it), versus the substantial costs of any repercussions ($$$$).
Of course, it’s your engine, so do with it as you may.
Oil and change intervals are influenced by many things, including the warranty period, CAFE, emissions, TCO ratings, environmental impact of oil change frequency, etc.
Little concern is given to the life of the engine outside of the warranty period.
Just went to Curry (Danbury CT) today to have the service performed. GREAT dealership. Mark the head service honcho and his advisor, Lenny, are fantastic. Some tidbits.
First. Clanging. Known thing. Something to do with the shocks I am told. Asked if it happens when I hit a larger rut. Yep. Totally normal. Nothing is breaking—no surprise there. Things a tank.
Second. I did ask about leaks, which I do not have. INEOS did some major upgrades to the door seals. Last problem they fixed was water pooling at the bottom of the doors and mine has the new seals that prevents this along with all the early model issues. Look for holes placed in the bottom of the door seals—they used to be solid. The holes allow drainage as it’s meant to happen. That is the latest, and likely last, update. No leaks with mine at all.
Third. Brake line rubbing. Not present and this issue was a very early fix for the front end. Whatever they did, that problem is fixed.
Fourth. Cooling hose running on steering unit. Not present but if it is present, it’s due to shipping. I guess when these come in, they check for these things.
Fifth. I had the far passenger back up sensor replaced. Normally resets but mine was stubborn. Replaced with no trouble.
Curry is simply fantastic. They are moving a lot of iron at their shop and have a very good handle on things. From sales to service—fantastic. I understand that is not the case for everyone but certainly not my experience. These guys are assisting with Fox steering mods (if a customer wants it). I see no need for it (I have no issues with steering) BUT I may put one in. Pretty much plug and play. Waiting to hear more from folks on that.
Just went to Curry (Danbury CT) today to have the service performed. GREAT dealership. Mark the head service honcho and his advisor, Lenny, are fantastic. Some tidbits.
First. Clanging. Known thing. Something to do with the shocks I am told. Asked if it happens when I hit a larger rut. Yep. Totally normal. Nothing is breaking—no surprise there. Things a tank.
Second. I did ask about leaks, which I do not have. INEOS did some major upgrades to the door seals. Last problem they fixed was water pooling at the bottom of the doors and mine has the new seals that prevents this along with all the early model issues. Look for holes placed in the bottom of the door seals—they used to be solid. The holes allow drainage as it’s meant to happen. That is the latest, and likely last, update. No leaks with mine at all.
Third. Brake line rubbing. Not present and this issue was a very early fix for the front end. Whatever they did, that problem is fixed.
Fourth. Cooling hose running on steering unit. Not present but if it is present, it’s due to shipping. I guess when these come in, they check for these things.
Fifth. I had the far passenger back up sensor replaced. Normally resets but mine was stubborn. Replaced with no trouble.
Curry is simply fantastic. They are moving a lot of iron at their shop and have a very good handle on things. From sales to service—fantastic. I understand that is not the case for everyone but certainly not my experience. These guys are assisting with Fox steering mods (if a customer wants it). I see no need for it (I have no issues with steering) BUT I may put one in. Pretty much plug and play. Waiting to hear more from folks on that.
Oil and change intervals are influenced by many things, including the warranty period, CAFE, emissions, TCO ratings, environmental impact of oil change frequency, etc.
Little concern is given to the life of the engine outside of the warranty period.
Exactly, I do a proper break in of all the machines I buy keeping the rpms low and varied for the first 1,000 miles followed by a beak in oil change at 1,000 miles. After that my oil change interval will be 5,000 miles with Ineos doing every other oil change / service for warranty purposes.
This is completely normal to have a bit of steel, aluminum, and asembly debris in your oil / filter after spinning a new engine 1.2 million times (600 miles / 60 mph at 2000 rpm) breaking it in. Will your engine go a good long way without a proper break in and oil change, of course. Will it go 250k miles or more without early and often oil changes? Time will tell.
This is completely normal to have a bit of steel, aluminum, and asembly debris in your oil / filter after spinning a new engine 1.2 million times (600 miles / 60 mph at 2000 rpm) breaking it in. Will your engine go a good long way without a proper break in and oil change, of course. Will it go 250k miles or more without early and often oil changes? Time will tell.
I realise there will be debris that’s why I dropped the oil I hope this engine will last as long as my handover V8 over K200 with regular changes..
This is the second first oil change I have done on a Grenadier and both showed similar debris at 500 to 600miles.
I realise there will be debris that’s why I dropped the oil I hope this engine will last as long as my handover V8 over K200 with regular changes..
This is the second first oil change I have done on a Grenadier and both showed similar debris at 500 to 600miles.
Most do not understand this. Most do not imagine pushing a vehicle this size with a B58 in anything but freeway or motorway cruising means it is being submitted to severe use. If you are often stuck in traffic or like me, motoring in sand or offroad do yourself a favor and change your oil every 5k or 6k miles.
I will preface this with the statement that I am a type A and very aware of my vehicles sounds and handling. I did my first oil change at 1,300 miles, totally disregarding INEOS saying its not needed. My service tech said today's engines are "pre-broken-in" from the factory. Sorry don't buy it and since I am planning to drive this till at least 250k miles I'm not taking any chances. A proactive oil change is worth far less than the potential issues down the road. Which is the same for all maintenance.
I say all this to make the point that the car is driving better post that oil change. Warming up quicker, shifting smoother, random shuddering is gone. And yes, I know parts also take time to "settle" but it was all more noticeable after the oil change. I plan on every 6k miles vs INEOS 12k.
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