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First oil change

Ragman

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Although I changed my oil early, I am due shortly for my first scheduled service. The dealer quoted me about $1700 for the service and when I asked why so much, he explained that the first service includes diff and transfer case oil changes as well as the engine oil, and fuel and oil and cabin filters etc, apparently it’s about 3 hours work plus fluids and parts. Dor some odd reason it doesn’t include air filter, but I will get mine changed anyway as I have done quite a bit of dusty driving
Wow, is all that listed in the owner’s manual maintenance schedule? I have a hard time thinking that the transfer case and diffs don’t have long life fluid. Any idea what the approved fluids are for those?
 

Ever Pragmatic

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Although I changed my oil early, I am due shortly for my first scheduled service. The dealer quoted me about $1700 for the service and when I asked why so much, he explained that the first service includes diff and transfer case oil changes as well as the engine oil, and fuel and oil and cabin filters etc, apparently it’s about 3 hours work plus fluids and parts. Dor some odd reason it doesn’t include air filter, but I will get mine changed anyway as I have done quite a bit of dusty driving
Not sure they did the diffs on mine. Engine oil and all filters Related in accordance with the manual.
 

Maxwell

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Ironically I had mine changed yesterday. 5800 miles and 11 months on from it arriving at the dealer. They changed oil, all filters and the transfer case oil.. £450 all in. The dealer also did a load of Ineos campaigns but they didn’t tell me what. I made sure I got the Ineos stamp in the service book.

mine also has a progressive bearing failure in the steering column which has parts on back order. I noticed a cracking sound when slow speed manoeuvring.. not a safety issue apparently..

Did you notice any noises before the cracking sound when manoeuvring? I just noticed, at about 4,000 km on the odo, a light squeaking noise when turning the steering wheel.
 

K1LL3M

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50,000 km oils changes, you're kidding right? Not a chance

Failure to at least meet the minimum requirements specified in the owners manual voids warranty, and any recourse you might have about any future engine problems should they arise. I mean, you do you boo, but no way Im risking ~$100k because I know better and the design engineers are lying to me.

I will also be doing at least 5-7500 Km changes or 6 monthly as specified for heavy use. I will also be doing a transmission service every 30-50,000 km

Lets compare engines at a million. I'm pretty confident of mine getting there
 

Ever Pragmatic

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Did you notice any noises before the cracking sound when manoeuvring? I just noticed, at about 4,000 km on the odo, a light squeaking noise when turning the steering wheel.
It’s not a squeaking but a clear cracking sound. I understand that it’s a bearing progressive failure in the steering column. I only get it when low/no speed manoeuvring.. at speed, it’s as good as gold..
 

Asnes

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I did mine at ~750 miles today (1,200km). My dealer had the car serviced at their performance division shop down the road from the showroom since they don’t have their own garage yet. 2 Lamborghinis, 3 porches, Supra, a few M-cars and a few other nice cars in the shop next to the grenadier :)

They do a lot of aftermarket tuning and know the B58TU inside and out with Toyota supra tunes pushing 1,000hp out of the platform.

They were very happy I brought in the grenadier for a first oil dump at the 750 mile mark. They confirmed that yes for this B58TU engine absolutely dump the oil after 500-1000 miles. Then every 5-6k miles after. No oil is designed to go 12k miles by their account. It’s not that expensive either.

Crown ineos in St-Petersburg Florida is my dealer. Great team there. I’ll do oil changes every 5-6k here on in I plan to keep the grenadier until it falls apart….
 

roadfever

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I did mine at ~750 miles today (1,200km). My dealer had the car serviced at their performance division shop down the road from the showroom since they don’t have their own garage yet. 2 Lamborghinis, 3 porches, Supra, a few M-cars and a few other nice cars in the shop next to the grenadier :)

They do a lot of aftermarket tuning and know the B58TU inside and out with Toyota supra tunes pushing 1,000hp out of the platform.

They were very happy I brought in the grenadier for a first oil dump at the 750 mile mark. They confirmed that yes for this B58TU engine absolutely dump the oil after 500-1000 miles. Then every 5-6k miles after. No oil is designed to go 12k miles by their account. It’s not that expensive either.

Crown ineos in St-Petersburg Florida is my dealer. Great team there. I’ll do oil changes every 5-6k here on in I plan to keep the grenadier until it falls apart….
Do you know what oil your dealer used?
 

Pete Brown

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I have a maintenance question.

What tools are required to change the oil and replace the filter in a Grenafier? ? Normally for a B58 you would need the following:

1) Socket wrench and 17mm (drain plug) and 32mm ( oil filter cap) sockets.

2) Socket extender and universal joint

3) torque wrench

4) 6.5 liters 0-20W, ACEA C2, BMW LL 17FE ( from Grenadier manual), new filter, o-ring, and drain plug copper washer.

Are the the socket u-joint and extender necessary to remove the oil filter receptacle for the Grenadier or is there enough room under the hood to reach the oil reservoir cap?

Are jack stands necessary or is there enough room underneath to get to the oil drain plug?

Are any other tools necessary to remove skid plates to get access to the drain plug?

What size copper washer is used?

What is the torque specification for the drain plug?

Comments from owners vehicle have already changed their own oil or who have access to the mythical service manual are appreciated.

Is there anything else needed that I have missed?

Thanks,
 
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Jean Mercier

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Hi guys. I know there will be an uproar: All these unnecessary oil changes! It`s just a big waste of money, resources!!!

Produktion of engines, gearboxes etc. is since many decades excellent. The tolerances are minimal. There is nearly no wear off in a new engine! And don`t forget: There is an oil filter which eliminates all small parts in the oil! And of course: modern Motor Oils are ways better than in older days. They last much longer, their greasing abilities are much better than in the old days! That`s why most manufacturers say: oil change after 30-50000km.
Up to now I have had 25 vehicles, 5 at the moment. I am doing the maintenance myself since nearly 50 years, never had any problems! Before I became a doctor- I had to wait 5,5 years to start studying medicine- I got a training as an automechanic (VW, Audi a.Porsche).

My Lotus/Opel Speedster Turbo get`s oil change every 50000km. From 2008-2018 it took me 10 years to get the 50k km. I have the car since 19 years now.
My VW Lupo 3l TDI get´s oil change every 50k km instead of every 15k km ( that`s what VW recommends). I bought it new in 2000 and it has now 400k km without any engine problems!
My LR Defender SW 110, My 2015, has now ca. 89k km, mostly sleeping in it`s garage, has got 2 oil changes up to now. It has been to Iceland( 4 Weeks), twice 9 months to southern Africa( ca. 70k km). There were no problems.
My Opel Astra Caravan 1.7 CDRI from 2008, now 148k km get`s oil change every 50k km, there were never problems.
My little campervan: Ford Transit Nugget, new from 2013, has now nearly 200k km, gets oil change every 30-50k km. It was in 2016/17 1 year, 56k km, in North- and Central Amerika. There are no problems with the engine.

I drive my cars always carefully, especially when cold, no high revs, listening to the sound of the engine( when it sounds stressed, or is unwilling to accelerate I switch gears). I never killed an engine or a gearbox. My clutches last at 400k km or more.

Your problem is: You got teached/drilled/advertised to change the oil . New oil is always better. You want to do your beloved car something good.Many cars get more love than the own wife.
Many recommendations by the carmakers are wrong: Land Rover for example tells you : you have to do maintenance every year, even if the car is standing in the garage sleeping 1-2 years, otherwise you are losing your guaranty. My Defender with 10k km on the clock was over 2,5 years in my garage. There was no maintenance. I took it out, checked it, no oil change and went 9 months to southern Africa without any problems(38k km).
Another example: If you go for maintenance to car dealer, they would change your batteries of your remote control( central locking) every 2 years. I still have the same batteries in the remote control of my Lotus/Speedster from 2004. I check the voltage of the batteries every year. They still have over 3 volt, no need to change them! At the dealership they would have changed them up to now 10 times!

I can not understand why Ineos recommends so many unnecessary oil changes. The engines are normal BMW engines. If you are not a race driver, if you drive carefully, you don`need so many oil changes! I know it`s good for your mind, but you are wasting a lot of oil/ money

I my opinion every 30k km under heavy conditions or every 50k km under normal conditions would be enough( and not at least every 2 years, the oil does`t get old within a few years)! That`s what I will do with my Grenadier.
Now I am awaiting the big outcry because I am swimming against the main stream. That`always outrageous!

Greetings Hans!
I only discovered this interesting discussion now.
Most Grenadier owners are over 50! Old blokes like me (me: 67 today, yes today, no congrats needed). We owned "old cars", and had "early oils". And unreliable parts.

I am a former Maintenance Management Consultant. Notice the word "management", therefore not "technical".
But ...
Of course - I am an engineer - I heard and listened to technical experts in lubrication, bearings, etc. and was a speaker on, or attended several seminars where technical matters were presented.

I agree with Hans: oils have improved, motor manufacturing has improved, manufacturing tolerances are very tight, much more than when we were young. The only way to know if your oil or motor is "bad" is sending an oil sample to a lab. That's what they do with diesel engines of train locomotives. Because the cost-benefit is worth doing it. Not for a car. Not enough oil.

As long as my car is under warranty I will stick to the Ineos rule oil change "every 20000 km", after that it will depend on my behavior. And even with my former car I often went over the 25000 km without an afterthought!

Did you know that the "mean" life span of a bearing doesn't follow the "bathtub curve"? For those who are interested in reading a fantastic book on these matters, read RCMII, from John Moubray. RCM= Reliability Centered Maintenance.
Not very recent, but still very actual! Only the first chapters are eye openers! The further you go in the book, the more technical it gets.

Too much maintenance is only good for your mechanics shop, not for your car, and not for your wallet.
 

Lord Ripon USA

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Unless you were pulling a load, dusty conditions, high speed, high ambient temperatures, just follow the manufacturers long service interval.

On my GMC trucks, we let the onboard computer say when. It’s just easier

I will say however that it is about a 50-50 chance that you will find debris from manufacturing in the oil from the first change.

I hate finding crumbs that should have been washed off before assembly in the oil of a brand new engine.
So, I sleep better making an oil change at 75 hours or 750 miles.
 

bamanuke

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I have a maintenance question.

What tools are required to change the oil and replace the filter in a Grenafier? ? Normally for a B58 you would need the following:

1) Socket wrench and 17mm (drain plug) and 32mm ( oil filter cap) sockets.

2) Socket extender and universal joint

3) torque wrench

4) 6.5 liters 0-20W, ACEA C2, BMW LL 17FE ( from Grenadier manual), new filter, o-ring, and drain plug copper washer.

Are the the socket u-joint and extender necessary to remove the oil filter receptacle for the Grenadier or is there enough room under the hood to reach the oil reservoir cap?

Are jack stands necessary or is there enough room underneath to get to the oil drain plug?

Are any other tools necessary to remove skid plates to get access to the drain plug?

What size copper washer is used?

What is the torque specification for the drain plug?

Comments from owners vehicle have already changed their own oil or who have access to the mythical service manual are appreciated.

Is there anything else needed that I have missed?

Thanks,
the only 32mm socket that I had was an impact. it worked fine, no u-joint. had to work around a couple of small wiring looms . I used the BMW filter which came with the crush washer and oring ($55 on Ebay for a 3pack). easy job, nothing else to remove. put the hood in the maintenance position and remove the plastic cover on the engine.
 

DenisM

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I only discovered this interesting discussion now.
Most Grenadier owners are over 50! Old blokes like me (me: 67 today, yes today, no congrats needed). We owned "old cars", and had "early oils". And unreliable parts.

I am a former Maintenance Management Consultant. Notice the word "management", therefore not "technical".
But ...
Of course - I am an engineer - I heard and listened to technical experts in lubrication, bearings, etc. and was a speaker on, or attended several seminars where technical matters were presented.

I agree with Hans: oils have improved, motor manufacturing has improved, manufacturing tolerances are very tight, much more than when we were young. The only way to know if your oil or motor is "bad" is sending an oil sample to a lab. That's what they do with diesel engines of train locomotives. Because the cost-benefit is worth doing it. Not for a car. Not enough oil.

As long as my car is under warranty I will stick to the Ineos rule oil change "every 20000 km", after that it will depend on my behavior. And even with my former car I often went over the 25000 km without an afterthought!

Did you know that the "mean" life span of a bearing doesn't follow the "bathtub curve"? For those who are interested in reading a fantastic book on these matters, read RCMII, from John Moubray. RCM= Reliability Centered Maintenance.
Not very recent, but still very actual! Only the first chapters are eye openers! The further you go in the book, the more technical it gets.

Too much maintenance is only good for your mechanics shop, not for your car, and not for your wallet.
Great reference Jean(y)
...@ 67 you're still a youngster! :)
 

NoMoTaco

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I did mine at ~750 miles today (1,200km). My dealer had the car serviced at their performance division shop down the road from the showroom since they don’t have their own garage yet. 2 Lamborghinis, 3 porches, Supra, a few M-cars and a few other nice cars in the shop next to the grenadier :)

They do a lot of aftermarket tuning and know the B58TU inside and out with Toyota supra tunes pushing 1,000hp out of the platform.

They were very happy I brought in the grenadier for a first oil dump at the 750 mile mark. They confirmed that yes for this B58TU engine absolutely dump the oil after 500-1000 miles. Then every 5-6k miles after. No oil is designed to go 12k miles by their account. It’s not that expensive either.

Crown ineos in St-Petersburg Florida is my dealer. Great team there. I’ll do oil changes every 5-6k here on in I plan to keep the grenadier until it falls apart….
Do you care to share the cost associated with this service? There was a separate thread where the cost of this was a bit of a hot button issue given the charges by some overseas agents.
 

Asnes

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Do you care to share the cost associated with this service? There was a separate thread where the cost of this was a bit of a hot button issue given the charges by some overseas agents.
I was expecting to pay somewhere around $150 for oil and filter change. Because I was their “first” service ever for the grenadier and the shop leader appreciated the fact that I was dumping / changing oil at 750 miles to clear out initial wear debris he didn’t charge me anything as a courtesy.

Great service. This was the same facility that service a LOT of high end vehicles. 2 lambos were in the garage when I walked in for example. They do a lot of tuning and are very familiar with the b58.

I’ll be back every 5-6k miles. For the b58 this is a good interval if you plan to run it for the long haul.
 

Tom109

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I was expecting to pay somewhere around $150 for oil and filter change. Because I was their “first” service ever for the grenadier and the shop leader appreciated the fact that I was dumping / changing oil at 750 miles to clear out initial wear debris he didn’t charge me anything as a courtesy.

Great service. This was the same facility that service a LOT of high end vehicles. 2 lambos were in the garage when I walked in for example. They do a lot of tuning and are very familiar with the b58.

I’ll be back every 5-6k miles. For the b58 this is a good interval if you plan to run it for the long haul.
I changed mine yesterday at 777miles. It is a very simple process on an easily accessible vehicle. I was initially shocked when I found first the filter housing, but the filter was easy removed/replaced. I am 6'4" tall, and I still stood on a milk crate with a mechanic's mat on the wing to lean on - it's a stretch!.

I plan on 5k mile change intervals, with possibly one more at 2k 🤷‍♂️
 

Krabby

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I changed mine yesterday at 777miles. It is a very simple process on an easily accessible vehicle. I was initially shocked when I found first the filter housing, but the filter was easy removed/replaced. I am 6'4" tall, and I still stood on a milk crate with a mechanic's mat on the wing to lean on - it's a stretch!.

I plan on 5k mile change intervals, with possibly one more at 2k 🤷‍♂️
Did removing the filter make a mess? I've never changed the oil on a vehicle without a "normal" can-style filter.
 

Catpaw4x4

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I changed mine yesterday at 777miles. It is a very simple process on an easily accessible vehicle. I was initially shocked when I found first the filter housing, but the filter was easy removed/replaced. I am 6'4" tall, and I still stood on a milk crate with a mechanic's mat on the wing to lean on - it's a stretch!.

I plan on 5k mile change intervals, with possibly one more at 2k 🤷‍♂️
Yep it IS A stretch as I commented many posts earlier ... the flat front bumper provides a excellent platform to stand / kneel upon to reach the oil filter!! Its like a "built in " work platform 😂 !
 

Tom109

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Did removing the filter make a mess? I've never changed the oil on a vehicle without a "normal" can-style filter.
No mess at all. I have had similar housings on my VW Tdi's. Yes, your first filter change will seem very strange.
 
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