The ethanol free I'm using is 90. And on road trips I've been using octane boost and see good increases in MPG, cause I'm usually trying to minimize stopping to every 3-3.5 hours.
Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to contribute to the community by adding your own topics, posts, and connect with other members through your own private inbox! INEOS Agents, Dealers or Commercial vendors please use the contact us link at the bottom of the page.
The ethanol free I'm using is 90. And on road trips I've been using octane boost and see good increases in MPG, cause I'm usually trying to minimize stopping to every 3-3.5 hours.
Wow I only have the Buckees 87 octane ethanol free. But doesn't mess with the oil really. What kind of mpg are you at now? But to answer your question you can use any LL01 and LL04 oil. LL04 is actually a little better of a spec. It's low SAPS and better for direct injected motors. It wasn't specced for gas due to US regulations. EPA wanted lower ZDDP numbers so it was limited with gas motors but diesel were exempt. It's why in Europe they run LL04 but in the US they did LL01. Also had to do with sulfur levels but now the US fuels are perfectly fine to run LL04 oil. So I've been doing QS Euro 5w40 which definitely runs smoother than the 0w20. Pennzoil Platinum Euro is a 5w30 that's LL04. Hard to argue with the QS price. I change every 5k miles and filter every 10. I plan on keeping my guy forever and I'm also running a tune. I'll probably retire with this guy in 20yrs lol.
You’re changing 100 bucks in oil on a 1/2 lifecycle, but you’re saving the soaked 10 dollar filter, that presumably is doing its job to clean the oil you want to get rid of.
The manual says 12k intervals and BMW use to say 16k but backed it down to 12k. A filter simply filters. The oil is what's doing the job of lubricating and fighting off elements. Longer drain intervals are kind of the opposite direction things are going with newer engines. They're starting to run lighter oil and tighter tolerances so pretty much everyone says if you want it to last you take your factory recommendation and cut it in half. My personal reasons for doing 5k miles is because it's an easy number to remember. When I'm about to hit 20k I know it's time to change. I could take it to 7.5k but don't really want to. I also drive it hard, run a tune, and have larger/heavier tires. I've done a VOA (virgin oil analysis) on my oil I've been using (Quaker State Euro) and have done multiple UOA to track the oil. It's a great oil and $22.50 at walmart for 5L. After taking the oil filters apart there was no reason to replace them at 5k. Even at 10k it was perfectly fine. The people that have seen the filters "deteriorate" is because they pull it off incorrectly so rip it up as they twist it off. They don't fail while in their housing.
Read the initial post here but the only reason LL17FE exists is because of US CAFE laws and not because it's what's best. BMW released a white paper study and showed they gained a 3% increase in mpg by going to the lighter oil. They didn't show it protected anything better. Their goal is to get you to end of warranty. I do oil analysis on my changes to see what's trending and how things are going.1) Why would you use Quaker State Euro in your Grenadier? It does not meet the specs for the Grenadier (per manual 0-20W, ACEA C2, BMW LL 17FE) and doing so may not cause your engine to blow up but it could jeopardize your warranty.
2) How do you know your oil filter is ok. A properly functioning filter will remove particles too small for the human eye to see. Do you do oil analysis in every change? (BTW, I think your 5k interval is a good investment.)
Quaker State® Euro Full Synthetic Motor Oil | Quaker State
Quaker State® Euro Full Synthetic motor oil is specially formulated in 5w-40, LX 0W-30 and L 5W-30 viscosities to protect today’s European vehicles.www.quakerstate.com
I answered this directly. The factory oil and filter change recommendation is 12k miles. The filter only filters. The oil can break down due to moisture, heat, etc. The filter isn't clogged and doesn't need the changing. The oil's HTHS however starts to lower and it starts to lose it's effectiveness after 5k miles. Recommended change interval based on UOA is 7.5k but I'd rather just do it at 5k miles to keep it simple on me. It's very common when doing shorter oil change intervals to do the filter every other change. The logic being it's still completely effective even at the 10k interval so no reason to change it at 5k miles. The oil however is degrading. There's also the point that I don't want to F'k with it. It's difficult to get to and I don't want to remove the plastic housing anymore than I have to. It's a poor design and prone to failure.
OK… so you are not running it in a Grenadier and that warranty would not be applicable. Is that correct?
I am running LL01 oil in the Grenadier. Not the 0w20.
Then why doesn't Ineos spec different oil for the Grenadier outside the US?
This part isn't entirely correct. While the hardware is BMW, the DME tuning is completely bespoke, from what I was told it was performed directly through Bosch as the DME mapping doesn't mimic BMW's at all (this part has been confirmed by a US tuner who is attempting to decrypt/unlock the DME for tuning for some big power). Additionally, Ineos does have specific mileage expectations (without notable repairs/failures) for the entire drivetrain that is substantially longer than the warranty period. It was in an internal document, so I'm not comfortable stating the number specifically, but it was well beyond 100,000 miles; and well in excess of BMW's own lifecycle goal.
Could be. I was just making an educated wish on his Q. I knew it was remapped with their specifics for lower power (higher reliability) and keeping the torque but they still have to be within BMW's operating specs unless they want to toss all the guarantees out the window.
Quite the opposite. It's a very tough engine. But if you browse the forums out there, make every google search include B58, you'll find TONS of people complaining of oil consumption in the engine and many of these are on the lighter oils. It's a great engine but in order to get a 3.0l to make it past 100k miles, be an offroader, capable of towing 7800lbs there's compromises. You can't just pull into any gas station and throw in a conventional 5w30 and call it a day. In the 1990s something with 100k miles was considered old and ready to die. I remember the old blocks handled something like 80,000psi. Now we're pushing something like 300,000 psi (I could completely be making that up but I remember reading it somewhere) in their design. You have 200hp per liter now making a 2.0l have more power than a 70s muscle car. That now means you can either have a motor shit the bed in 60k miles by doing things the old way or you accept we're in the science and tech age where we figure these things out. Use application matters. The B58 is an amazing powertrain but to get it do the things I want it to do and be safe and last forever doing so meant learning everything I can about it.
That’s exactly what he said - that it was not the way to go if you prioritize longevity
