Nato Plug solenoid options (and anderson)

[5teve]

HI Guys

I suffer from a severe disease called procrastination... I ponder and research and overthink everything

Getting ready for our van arrival in July - i'm going to be getting the car ready - One thing i need is a 50A anderson (I may actually try and spec larger from the caravan manufacturer for future 'options' within the van

I would like to keep the nato plug and would just make a Nato to anderson for convenience (and cry buying the nato plug ) Likely make a nato to 175a Anderson or 120a and run the van with that size or another reducer..

Now comes my issue... There are a number of posts to 'fix' the speed and other restrictions that ineos have imposed.. so using various int and ext switches... and just a generic 'ignition switched' feed. also cutting signal wires at relays too..

I intend to install a UHF under the passenger side glove box (RHD) all being well which I beleive is int1, Int 2 is the wrong side on the right side longer cable run (i'm lazy) and the engine bay EXT switches are also maybe problematic wiring wise for the lazy..

Do any of the prewired switches run through relays or is that on the power size to cut them of with ignition, and the actual full 10/25a goes through the overhead switch itself? If the switches actually trigger relays are they under the passenger seat?

I'm just looking for the most straightforward option with minimal wiring interference.. so any more recent develpments? (most posts seem to peter out at around mid 2025) ideally a software fix to allow it to be used for towing would be ideal... but i'd be running out of air holding my breath pretty quickly..!

Steve

 

[5teve]

Additionally - If i went down the route of Anderson connections... and installed a 50odd amp anderson to the rear of the vehicle - could that be wired directly into the prefuse box on the empty slot? I assume however that this is permanently live - so may need a solenoid or relay to trigger it via ignition if needed? (maybe fed from one of the int switch relays?)

Edit - actually a bit more searching seems that running it off the battery side of the nato solenoid with local breakers could be a really easy option and still leaves the nato as stock. minimal wiring and a few options.. i'd still likley go 120a andersons.. as i'll be pushing for a 50a dc2dc in the van

Steve

 

[Clark Kent]

HI Guys

I suffer from a severe disease called procrastination... I ponder and research and overthink everything

Getting ready for our van arrival in July - i'm going to be getting the car ready - One thing i need is a 50A anderson (I may actually try and spec larger from the caravan manufacturer for future 'options' within the van

I would like to keep the nato plug and would just make a Nato to anderson for convenience (and cry buying the nato plug ) Likely make a nato to 175a Anderson or 120a and run the van with that size or another reducer..

Now comes my issue... There are a number of posts to 'fix' the speed and other restrictions that ineos have imposed.. so using various int and ext switches... and just a generic 'ignition switched' feed. also cutting signal wires at relays too..

I intend to install a UHF under the passenger side glove box (RHD) all being well which I beleive is int1, Int 2 is the wrong side on the right side longer cable run (i'm lazy) and the engine bay EXT switches are also maybe problematic wiring wise for the lazy..

Do any of the prewired switches run through relays or is that on the power size to cut them of with ignition, and the actual full 10/25a goes through the overhead switch itself? If the switches actually trigger relays are they under the passenger seat?

I'm just looking for the most straightforward option with minimal wiring interference.. so any more recent develpments? (most posts seem to peter out at around mid 2025) ideally a software fix to allow it to be used for towing would be ideal... but i'd be running out of air holding my breath pretty quickly..!

Steve

Additionally - If i went down the route of Anderson connections... and installed a 50odd amp anderson to the rear of the vehicle - could that be wired directly into the prefuse box on the empty slot? I assume however that this is permanently live - so may need a solenoid or relay to trigger it via ignition if needed? (maybe fed from one of the int switch relays?)

Edit - actually a bit more searching seems that running it off the battery side of the nato solenoid with local breakers could be a really easy option and still leaves the nato as stock. minimal wiring and a few options.. i'd still likley go 120a andersons.. as i'll be pushing for a 50a dc2dc in the van

Steve

Righto, you want to get DC to your van but haven't yet decided to either rework the NATO socket and run an adapter or run a dedicated Anderson circuit.

I've posted on the NATO thing previously. Both getting the solenoid online so the NATO stays active plus making an adapter. Search NATO and my user name and you'll find my posts. I'm not the authority on this. I'm just saying that I solved it for my requirements and have posted about it.

A dedicated Anderson at 50 or 120 amps is just as viable. Pickup power at the live side of the NATO solenoid. That circuit is fused at 350 amps. I derated it to 60 amps for 50 amp Anderson use. The information is in my posts.

I think most add-on Anderson circuits are live rather than ignition switched. If you are worried about battery drain when parked and hooked up then make sure your van side circuits and DC-DC have low voltage cutout protection.

I'm running my UHF and Cel-Fi from INT1.
There are relays for the INT and EXT circuits under the rear seat. Read the Rok Doctors unofficial guide for more info.

 

[5teve]

Righto, you want to get DC to your van but haven't yet decided to either rework the NATO socket and run an adapter or run a dedicated Anderson circuit.

I've posted on the NATO thing previously. Both getting the solenoid online so the NATO stays active plus making an adapter. Search NATO and my user name and you'll find my posts. I'm not the authority on this. I'm just saying that I solved it for my requirements and have posted about it.

A dedicated Anderson at 50 or 120 amps is just as viable. Pickup power at the live side of the NATO solenoid. That circuit is fused at 350 amps. I derated it to 60 amps for 50 amp Anderson use. The information is in my posts.

I think most add-on Anderson circuits are live rather than ignition switched. If you are worried about battery drain when parked and hooked up then make sure your van side circuits and DC-DC have low voltage cutout protection.

I'm running my UHF and Cel-Fi from INT1.
There are relays for the INT and EXT circuits under the rear seat. Read the Rok Doctors unofficial guide for more info.

Your first line summarises it perfectly

Yes I have read yours and many others options for keeping / adapting the Nato and this is why i'm procrastinating I do it with everything...

My thoughts now are seeing if I can mount a double 120a Anderson (why not and it will allow for higher rated DC2DC in the van) into one of the bash plate slots - I'll design a 3d printed shell for them to go into that clamps or mounts into the slot.

I'll wire it back to the switched side of the nato solenoid and then pull the signal lead and replace it with a piggyback feed from one of the int/ext fuses or relays that way it can be ignition switched and switched via the power switch on the console too when ignition is off (im actually pondering over leaving the stock feed and adding a second feed - with diodes to prevent feedback - not sure it will work but cant see the issue if there are 2 signals and diodes in place - thoughts and ridicule appreciated!) I'll potentially add a 100a breaker to each feed too... as per the post by Douggie here https://www.theineosforum.com/threa...-battery-to-the-rear.12414156/post-1333267768 i can the easily isolate the andersons if need be and dont need to change the nato fuse as i'm protecting the cable - not the load. This seems to be my most straightforward and simple option... Add the elecbrakes ineos specific adaptor and i should be golden. Although I really am sorely tempted to try the elecbrakes wired into the standard electric brake wiring under the rear seat just to try it.. i dont know if the Aus models has the issue with the signal wire though.. (I have done some reading!)

Steve

 

[TheDocAUS]

UHF links
UHF (CB) RADIO: How to install a UHF (CB) Radio in an INEOS Grenadier without drilling any holes here (RHD cars only) and fitout here and here. LHD drive cars look here and here and detailed video here.

Summary of the Wire ends here:

Wire ends in the Grenadier and QM (covering standard and high power aux power panels)

Mar 23, 2025

wire ends, switches, spare circuits

• TheDocAUS
• Resources, Maintenance Tutorials, Procedures and guides.

My UHF is wired to Int 1 (actually both UHFs are). If I need to use either headset while the car is turned off, I turn on the PWR switch on the overhead console.

 

[TheDocAUS]

Anderson circuit
I left the NATO circuit as is and added a fused Anderson circuit from the aux battery to the rear.

 

[5teve]

Anderson circuit
I left the NATO circuit as is and added a fused Anderson circuit from the aux battery to the rear.

Your posts were also a reference for me of course - So are your andersons always live?

 

[TheDocAUS]

Your posts were also a reference for me of course - So are your andersons always live?

Yes it is, but the van's charger only charges with ignition source. So the van's charger does not charge when the car is turned off.

 

[Karearea]

UHF links
UHF (CB) RADIO: How to install a UHF (CB) Radio in an INEOS Grenadier without drilling any holes here (RHD cars only) and fitout here and here. LHD drive cars look here and here and detailed video here.

Summary of the Wire ends here:

Wire ends in the Grenadier and QM (covering standard and high power aux power panels)

Mar 23, 2025

wire ends, switches, spare circuits

• TheDocAUS
• Resources, Maintenance Tutorials, Procedures and guides.

My UHF is wired to Int 1 (actually both UHFs are). If I need to use either headset while the car is turned off, I turn on the PWR switch on the overhead console.

Thanks for the link Doc, I know I watched this a few years ago but what I didn’t watch was his link where he mentioned the marine type heat shrink - I’m absolutely going to use this from now on and not ordinary heat shrink! Thanks