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Ineos provided hydraulic bottle jack

DCPU

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So we already knew it is located behind two panels in the rear left quarter of the load space. To take it out you undo the strap and the thumbwheel screw:
WP_20230521_105.jpg

Once it's out you can see quite a bit of additional space in the cavity. I think this was one of the areas on the concept vehicle where there might have been an external bin to carry dirty wellies, etc:
WP_20230521_106.jpgWP_20230521_107.jpg

If you take the two bolts holding the jack stand out, there's even more usable space:
WP_20230521_113.jpgWP_20230521_111(1).jpgWP_20230521_111.jpg

The jack even fits in to rest on the floor:
WP_20230521_114.jpgWP_20230521_116.jpg
 

DCPU

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The jack itself.

Not off to the best start when I take it out and a bit falls off (that cost engineer again...):
WP_20230521_118.jpg

And there's an issue "engaging" the split pin to lock the arm fully. The alignment with the end of the pumping arm is out. Not a disastrous issue as it will still work; but you now can't withdraw the jack from underneath the vehicle by simply pulling on the arm:
WP_20230521_122.jpg

Although, I doubt that would actually work as the spring clips that are supposed to hold the sections together are far too weak and disengage as the very lightest of touches:
WP_20230521_125.jpg

The final section of the jack, underneath the toe, is a Acme type screw that can be unwound by hand - fully deployed:
WP_20230521_126.jpg

And jack in full happy to see you mode:
WP_20230521_134.jpg
 
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DCPU

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Rear axle use.

The Owner's Manual states, on page 136:

"Position the jack between the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle"

But this seems impossible on the rear axle as the shock absorber mounting brackets are outboard of the axle and inclined towards the rear tyre.

I tried it first on the rear control arm:
WP_20230521_131.jpg

Before moving it a little further inboard to rest on the underneath of the axle itself:
WP_20230521_137.jpg

Care has to be taken in this position as the central column of the jack raises first to locate against the axle and then the outer column raises to it's full extension - the bolt end of the lower control arm is in very close proximity:
WP_20230521_139.jpgWP_20230521_140.jpg

Once positioned correctly, there is just about room:
WP_20230521_141.jpgWP_20230521_142.jpg

The final issue is that when lowering the central column descends under the vehicle weight but then the outer column remains in place. It wasn't possible to reach in and try and depress the column by hand. in the end I pulled horizontally at the base of the jack and it came out sideways.
 
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DCPU

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Front axle use.

The Owner's Manual states, on page 136:

"Position the jack between the two shock absorber mounting brackets on the axle"

Now that seems correct for this axle, as the shock absorber is bolted to a bracket immediately behind the axle:
WP_20230521_145.jpgWP_20230521_147.jpg

The same comments on the operation of the jack apply here, only I would add an additional comment regarding the toe of the jack. It does not seem to cradle the axle very well or have any locating lugs or sections that would give a positive seating; as such it is quite hard to locate it dead centre under the axle:
WP_20230521_153.jpg
 
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DCPU

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All in all, not an impressive bit of kit and quite disappointing that someone within Projekt Grenadier could sign this off as built on purpose.

I had planned to take the wheels off, but didn't because it really didn't inspire me to try.
 
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bakepl

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Great write up thanks... have to wonder if the de
All in all, not an impressive bit of kit and quite disappointing that someone within Projekt Grenadier could sign this off as built on purpose.

I had planned to take the wheels off, but didn't because it really didn't inspire me to try.
Great write up thanks. Have to wonder if whoever had a hand in designing this has ever changed a wheel in anger.. or did the beancounters come over the top... :ROFLMAO:
 

Tom D

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Be careful storing the jack in the deeper space, if it rattles around any dents it makes will be visible on the outside! stick a bit of foam on the panel.
 

Skiprat

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Looking at the second picture posted, it looks like the "baseplate" of the jack holder has a hinge along its rear edge... would that not lift up & allow access into the space below without unbolting the whole thing?
 

DCPU

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Be careful storing the jack in the deeper space, if it rattles around any dents it makes will be visible on the outside! stick a bit of foam on the panel.
Yes, I was obviously just trying it for space. I wasn't certain whether some of it was actually double walled.
 

DCPU

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Looking at the second picture posted, it looks like the "baseplate" of the jack holder has a hinge along its rear edge... would that not lift up & allow access into the space below without unbolting the whole thing?
No, the bracket is a solid single piece of steel with a simple right angle bend for the base. I think what looks like a hinge mechanism in the photo are some cutouts in a thin layer of foam lining the base.
 
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Francois

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So we already knew it is located behind two panels in the rear left quarter of the load space. To take it out you undo the strap and the thumbwheel screw:
View attachment 7812954

Once it's out you can see quite a bit of additional space in the cavity. I think this was one of the areas on the concept vehicle where there might have been an external bin to carry dirty wellies, etc:
View attachment 7812955View attachment 7812956

If you take the two bolts holding the jack stand out, there's even more usable space:
View attachment 7812959View attachment 7812957View attachment 7812958

The jack even fits in to rest on the floor:
View attachment 7812960View attachment 7812961
Thank you for all the detailed photos. It appears that one could consider fitting some sort of water tank in that space and allocate the jack somewhere else. regards
 
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Hi DCPU My jack /handle has the same faults as yours plus the fact the same bit broke off and cant get the screw to screw out .
Also some jacks I have seen have rubber pads on the to perhaps??
 

Tazzieman

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Bottle jacks are strong yet unstable.
I presume the IG one is Chinese made?
I weld up a "U" shaped receiver to stop them rolling off the axle. Not sure the IG jack top plate is an improvement.
Also I wonder if you could store the jack under the car?
Until I get my hands on mine I can't experiment!
 

Gwynne

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Great and very informative discussion and posts. Do more knowledgeable people than I consider that jacking up from the rock slider is a better overall solution than trying to get to the wheel axles?
 

AnD3rew

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Hi DCPU My jack /handle has the same faults as yours plus the fact the same bit broke off and cant get the screw to screw out .
Also some jacks I have seen have rubber pads on the to perhaps??
Hope you guys are taking back to agents for warranty, INEOS needs to know if they aren’t up to scratch and recall if it’s a common problem
 

Tazzieman

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Great and very informative discussion and posts. Do more knowledgeable people than I consider that jacking up from the rock slider is a better overall solution than trying to get to the wheel axles?
It's always good to have options. The sliders provide an option , another reason to get them if you anticipate removing a wheel on the track.
 

globalgregors

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Great and very informative discussion and posts. Do more knowledgeable people than I consider that jacking up from the rock slider is a better overall solution than trying to get to the wheel axles?
Not for changing a wheel, see the Puncture thread (how do I link to an entire thread?). To summarise:

Rock slider/high lift or exhaust jack under chassis members is to get the chassis off the ground (eg to get the shovel under the vehicle) in a recovery. If the tyre is punctured or off the rim the safest option is to gently get to somewhere flat before lifting under the axle with the bottle jack as per the Owners Manual.

The jack mate discussed earlier is if you’ve gone down into a hole and run aground, again it’s an easy way to lift the effected wheel and build the track underneath it. You could use it to lift the car for a repair involving wheel removal but you need something to rest the vehicle on. For example, a brake has seized: you can lift the vehicle via high lift under rockslider or with the jack mate and then pop the spare wheel under the outrigger or axle while you effect a repair. Obviously no good if you’re changing across to the spare wheel as it’s now busy holding the vehicle up.

But if something drastic happens (sheared wheel studs/lost a wheel/sitting on the rim etc) then the high lift is the pick as it will be very difficult to get the bottle jack into a position where the axle can be safely lifted to permit repairs (because obviously in this case the axle itself is on the ground).
 
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