Front Driveshaft Removal - Tech Data Request

[Greasemonkey]

I sheared off two bolts on the diff end when my shaft unlived itself. Double nutted and grips got them out.

Do you happen to know the dimensions of this nut? The diameter at the bottom of the washer and the wrench size?

Was it perhaps an M26 x 1.5?

 

[ECrider]

Do you happen to know the dimensions of this nut? The diameter at the bottom of the washer and the wrench size?

Was it perhaps an M26 x 1.5?View attachment 7919152

Unfortunately I did not measure. Second driveshaft now on.

 

[Clark Kent]

When new CV bolts go back in, should they be thread locked, or anti seize?

The procedure doesn't call for either. I suspect the new bolts have dry thread lock on them. I'm sure I have seen a picture of them on here.
Based on these reports my gut says use an anti-sieze but anti-sieze should not be used with thread lock. Also, the bolts are torqued with a wrench arc method (torque to yield) at 25Nm + 40 degrees rotation. Anti-sieze acts as a lubricant so the installation torque value should be reduced or the bolts are at risk of overtorque during assembly then failure. Without knowing the history of any of these failed bolts there's no way of knowing if they were overtorqued and weakened or are siezed in the flange.

 

[ECrider]

I would suggest anti-sieze on the metal mating surfaces and also the exposed back threads once bolts torqued up. I would not use thread lock personally, just a periodic look now and again once installed and bolt heads painted so a look would see if any movement.

 

[ORSO]

I confirm that once removed, the bolts must be replaced with new ones that have the old dry lockring and a light gasket to prevent the thread from rusting.

As already mentioned, in addition to greasing the CV joint with copper paste to prevent seizure, I strongly recommend re-tapping the flange threads with a tap to clean them.

 

[landmannnn]

On other vehicles I have had to deal with driveshaft bolts with something equivalent to red locate on the threads. They came off easily enough when blasted with a hot air gun.

Could it be that rather than corrosion?

 

[Dokatd]

I never use loctite on shaft bolts. But then again I very rarely use loctite on much of anything if I can avoid it.

 

[AFdude412]

In other news, this son of a bitch sucks at holding a flashlight.

 

[ECrider]

In other news, this son of a bitch sucks at holding a flashlight. View attachment 7919164

never ask a human to help with menial tasks

 

[landmannnn]

never ask a human to help with menial tasks

What is more impressive is the typing skills of the dog.

 

[bamanuke]

I put in the FB comment about using the ratchet strap, and yes, sometimes it takes a couple whacks with a small deadblow hammer once you have tension on the strap. As Dokatd commented, the strap goes around the transition on the driveshaft, not the CV. I broke one bolt on the pinion end, on my second replacement (#6 currently installed). The bolt that broke was an Ineos replacement, which has a red/purple colored threadlocker. I now remove the factory threadlocker from new bolts with a wire wheel and use blue threadlocker instead. Waiting on word on another prototype shaft that is under development before I pull the lift or drop down to the 1.7.

 

[AFdude412]

I put in the FB comment about using the ratchet strap, and yes, sometimes it takes a couple whacks with a small deadblow hammer once you have tension on the strap. As Dokatd commented, the strap goes around the transition on the driveshaft, not the CV. I broke one bolt on the pinion end, on my second replacement (#6 currently installed). The bolt that broke was an Ineos replacement, which has a red/purple colored threadlocker. I now remove the factory threadlocker from new bolts with a wire wheel and use blue threadlocker instead. Waiting on word on another prototype shaft that is under development before I pull the lift or drop down to the 1.7.

Ratchet strap and hitting with a punch/hammer got it loose. Thank you. But I had to drop the crossmember to get the leverage I needed.
And I’m still working on the pesky broken bolt.

 

[AFdude412]

Hey @Dokatd I’ve made big progress but holy heck now getting the CV off is proving to be a task too. C clip is out and I can’t get it to budge. Beating the hell out of it! Any pointers?

 

[Tazzieman]

Hey @Dokatd I’ve made big progress but holy heck now getting the CV off is proving to be a task too. C clip is out and I can’t get it to budge. Beating the hell out of it! Any pointers?

Skip to 2:40

View: https://youtu.be/gxw_iO9zuRM?si=6BAmuOc97sEli1D7

 

[Dokatd]

Hey @Dokatd I’ve made big progress but holy heck now getting the CV off is proving to be a task too. C clip is out and I can’t get it to budge. Beating the hell out of it! Any pointers?

Some have to be pressed off, some fall off. If you know someone with a press that's the easiest option to be sure. Otherwise any independent auto shop should be able to press it or a machine shop. I can probably get you into a shop in Boulder if that's not to far.

 

[AFdude412]

Skip to 2:40

View: https://youtu.be/gxw_iO9zuRM?si=6BAmuOc97sEli1D7

Yep. Watched that too and still nada….

My next brightest idea is flipping the Grenadier around and using my winch with the driveshaft ratchet strapped to my Quartermaster’s recovery point to separate it. What could go wrong?

There are probably more simpler ways though.

I have a feeling all of these issues that I’ve run into have a lot to do with the heat that is in that joint. So many fused pieces.

 

[AFdude412]

Some have to be pressed off, some fall off. If you know someone with a press that's the easiest option to be sure. Otherwise any independent auto shop should be able to press it or a machine shop. I can probably get you into a shop in Boulder if that's not to far.

The press is likely what’s going to be needed. I’m about 30 mins from Boulder. What’s the shop’s name?