The Grenadier Forum

Register a free account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to contribute to the community by adding your own topics, posts, and connect with other members through your own private inbox! INEOS Agents, Dealers or Commercial vendors please use the contact us link at the bottom of the page.

Front Drive Shaft Update

Incorrect, mine was a Teraflex, that helps nothing. Only the Agile shaft will help.
Running a single-cardan 1350 driveshaft is a band-aid which comes with compromises of its own.

I believe my lift has to come off. We are leaving on Silk Road in early ‘27 and I do not want to have it on my mind.

But then again, maybe I’ll just buy a Land Cruiser and not have to worry about this ever again.
 
7500, about 1000 after the 30mm lift.

I’m going to try the Teraflex boot. Folks I know using them aren’t having issues.

I have not had good experiences with the Teraflex cv:
 
I don’t think anyone will accuse you of this being how unlikely it is. Give yourself a 2.5” lift, and put an accordion boot over the entire assembly while switching to a teraflex and see what happens. It’ll be a sample size of one, but…

A big boot might hide any early signs of failure like spattered grease but it doesn't seem that there's much advance warning anyway. The boot tears, the grease is flung out, and you're DOA in a couple of klicks.
 
A big boot might hide any early signs of failure like spattered grease but it doesn't seem that there's much advance warning anyway. The boot tears, the grease is flung out, and you're DOA in a couple of klicks.
But... if the cause is a stone... it will not hide anything, because it's not happening. How else ya gonna prove this without 2000 people putting boots on?
 
  • Like
Reactions: CRH
New Landcruiser has a few...concerns;
1. Junk Engines
2. Gearing
3. Transmissions
4. Under engineered diffs
5. Delicate front end
Pick your poison, but at least Ineos tried to develop something robust we can easily upgrade. The new Toyotas not so much.
Well, that all depends on which LC... theres a 600 mile 2003 100 series on cars and bids. I beat the living shit out of my 2002 and only retired it for rust. Operationally flawless, and super bland to look at. Ive had every LC (no prados) gwagon, and few various weirdo rigs, and that 100.... for the non hard core the category I put the Gren into, that rig still seems like the closest to the sweet spot a decade after parking it. I'm on week 12 total of this thing being in the shop since I bought it. It's front end flaws appear to un-correctable. I may be bidding. Dump this and fill my man crisis void with a 997 gts.
 
But... if the cause is a stone... it will not hide anything, because it's not happening. How else ya gonna prove this without 2000 people putting boots on?


I wonder if this worked out? Even if it wasn't filled with grease it would make a good dust boot.
 
Well, that all depends on which LC... theres a 600 mile 2003 100 series on cars and bids. I beat the living shit out of my 2002 and only retired it for rust. Operationally flawless, and super bland to look at. Ive had every LC (no prados) gwagon, and few various weirdo rigs, and that 100.... for the non hard core the category I put the Gren into, that rig still seems like the closest to the sweet spot a decade after parking it. I'm on week 12 total of this thing being in the shop since I bought it. It's front end flaws appear to un-correctable. I may be bidding. Dump this and fill my man crisis void with a 997 gts.

Older ones you bet. I was thinking of new. We had a 2015 Four Runner, not easy to mod, or all that great off road but reliable as all get out. Sort of that last of the era for Toyota.
 

I wonder if this worked out? Even if it wasn't filled with grease it would make a good dust boot.
The gentleman that did that said it did not work out.
 
Where are they for sale? Do we have the code?
I’m currently in discussions with my dealer to have this done as Shitake is on an extended “convalescence” due a few issues including front diff weeping!
Will update with costs if they let me know. Just waiting for this holiday period to end. 😁
 
I’m currently in discussions with my dealer to have this done as Shitake is on an extended “convalescence” due a few issues including front diff weeping!
Will update with costs if they let me know. Just waiting for this holiday period to end. 😁
Shitake 🤣
 
I have been following this thread for sometime and unfortunately do not see any real solutions to this issue yet. It makes me uncomfortable taking my truck on a 2000 mile road trip, far from dealerships, including offroad remote driving. After thinking about it, it seems the best thing to do is bring a spare driveshaft along and the tools and know-how to replace it. But still lies a problem and that is potential collateral damage from a failed shaft. I am wondering if anyone is making a bolt on restraint bracket so this collateral risk is minimized. If not, im hoping agile, or owl, or any of the other great vendors on this forum and in this space can make something available for purchase. Thank you.
 
I have been following this thread for sometime and unfortunately do not see any real solutions to this issue yet. It makes me uncomfortable taking my truck on a 2000 mile road trip, far from dealerships, including offroad remote driving. After thinking about it, it seems the best thing to do is bring a spare driveshaft along and the tools and know-how to replace it. But still lies a problem and that is potential collateral damage from a failed shaft. I am wondering if anyone is making a bolt on restraint bracket so this collateral risk is minimized. If not, im hoping agile, or owl, or any of the other great vendors on this forum and in this space can make something available for purchase. Thank you.
You will notice in this thread that people have identified a bracket and bought it on Amazon
 
If you can change a drive shaft you can change a joint. No need to haul around a complete shaft. You only have to replace one joint typically.

The instance of collateral damage is far less than just boot failure itself. Know what you are looking at and check daily and you won't likely ever see catastrophic failure.
 
If you can change a drive shaft you can change a joint. No need to haul around a complete shaft. You only have to replace one joint typically.

The instance of collateral damage is far less than just boot failure itself. Know what you are looking at and check daily and you won't likely ever see catastrophic failure.

Good to know. You seem like someone who actually knows what they are talking about in regard to this issue. I do have to say that I have gathered from your previous posts that there is not a lot of warning of impending failure though. Things like you won't see small cracks, you are going to see grease flung about and an actual hole in the boot. I am worried that I maybe stop at a gas station, check the boot and it looks fine, and 200 miles later driving at 83 mph this thing grenades. Maybe I have misunderstood some of your previous posts. Thank you
 
If you can change a drive shaft you can change a joint. No need to haul around a complete shaft. You only have to replace one joint typically.

The instance of collateral damage is far less than just boot failure itself. Know what you are looking at and check daily and you won't likely ever see catastrophic failure.
Agree, but it's probably easier on the trail (or in general) to just swap another shaft and then fix the one with the failed CV boot at a later time.
 
Agree, but it's probably easier on the trail (or in general) to just swap another shaft and then fix the one with the failed CV boot at a later time.
I can't really argue that because you are right. But changing a joint is only just slightly more involved. And the weight/space savings is pretty huge. You can carry 1,2 or 3 joints and still take up less space and room. I have never been a fan of carry whole shafts, but I can quickly change a U-joint on the trail so a Rzeppa is a breeze.

To each their own.
 
I have been following this thread for sometime and unfortunately do not see any real solutions to this issue yet. It makes me uncomfortable taking my truck on a 2000 mile road trip, far from dealerships, including offroad remote driving. After thinking about it, it seems the best thing to do is bring a spare driveshaft along and the tools and know-how to replace it. But still lies a problem and that is potential collateral damage from a failed shaft. I am wondering if anyone is making a bolt on restraint bracket so this collateral risk is minimized. If not, im hoping agile, or owl, or any of the other great vendors on this forum and in this space can make something available for purchase. Thank you.
IMO there is nothing that would prevent me from driving my Grenadier on a 2k trip tomorrow. I've driven it from Seattle to Washington, DC. DC to NY, Montreal, VT, DC to Charleston, DC to Denver and back in the last 24 mos. Over 35k miles. Yes, I had my driveshaft replaced, but that was for a u-joint, not the boot / rzeppa.

I am at stock suspension height.

2k miles is nothing.
 
Back
Top Bottom