What does this overhead battery switch actually do?

[Shawnpalmer]

I cannot find any info on what the switch with the battery icon does. See pic.
It does not need to be in the on position for the other switches to power devices.

 

[Krabby]

It activates the other switches - it’s “power” for the pre wired stuff.

 

[DaveB]

I cannot find any info on what the switch with the battery icon does. See pic.
It does not need to be in the on position for the other switches to power devices.

 

[SkiBum1]

My dealer also said that if the main battery is dead, you can flip that switch and start the vehicle from the auxiliary battery!

 

[anand]

My dealer also said that if the main battery is dead, you can flip that switch and start the vehicle from the auxiliary battery!

The CTEK battery isolator automatically will connect the aux battery to the main battery if the main battery is below 9.6v for 10 seconds to "assist" in cranking (providing up to 300A); the switch does not handle this functionality

 

[DaBull]

My dealer also said that if the main battery is dead, you can flip that switch and start the vehicle from the auxiliary battery!

Has anybody confirmed this? Inquiring minds want to know.
DaBull

 

[Krabby]

Has anybody confirmed this? Inquiring minds want to know.
DaBull

Look at post 5 by anand

That is not that switch’s function.

 

[Znarfgh]

My dealer also said that if the main battery is dead, you can flip that switch and start the vehicle from the auxiliary battery!

Not sure this is correct - the auxiliary battery is constantly connected to the Smartpass 120 and will trickle charge the starter battery up to the point where there is only enough charge left in the aux battery to start the vehicle. Then the Smartpass will then disconnect the aux battery from the main until you try and start the vehicle.

It's a weird setup for those of us used to the traditional auxiliary battery setup.

 

[DaveB]

Not sure this is correct - the auxiliary battery is constantly connected to the Smartpass 120 and will trickle charge the starter battery up to the point where there is only enough charge left in the aux battery to start the vehicle. Then the Smartpass will then disconnect the aux battery from the main until you try and start the vehicle.

It's a weird setup for those of us used to the traditional auxiliary battery setup.

I think we covered this a couple of years ago.

View: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uxSUzi7PFk0

 

[Dan_Oz]

Hi All

Sorry if this has been asked before, or is obvious.

If I understand DaveB's post, if I switch Aux 1 on it means that power will be supplied to the 12V (cigarette lighter sockets) and USB outlets. In other words, I can run my car fridge off the 12V socket in the load area without the car being on or key in the ignition. Is that right? So for example I can leave the fridge running while the car is parked and locked.

If I do this (and it is why I specified the dual battery), does the power solely come from the second battery? In other words, can I do this without running down the starting battery? Or should I fit an isolator (and if so, can anyone recommend someone in Sydney to do it?)

Also, on a related note, is there some way that I can check battery condition of each battery separately? Unless I'm missing something, the "electrical" screen on offroad only shows one reading, and it is not clear whether this is for the starting battery or the combination of the two.

Thanks!

 

[anand]

Hi All

Sorry if this has been asked before, or is obvious.

If I understand DaveB's post, if I switch Aux 1 on it means that power will be supplied to the 12V (cigarette lighter sockets) and USB outlets. In other words, I can run my car fridge off the 12V socket in the load area without the car being on or key in the ignition. Is that right? So for example I can leave the fridge running while the car is parked and locked.

If I do this (and it is why I specified the dual battery), does the power solely come from the second battery? In other words, can I do this without running down the starting battery? Or should I fit an isolator (and if so, can anyone recommend someone in Sydney to do it?)

Also, on a related note, is there some way that I can check battery condition of each battery separately? Unless I'm missing something, the "electrical" screen on offroad only shows one reading, and it is not clear whether this is for the starting battery or the combination of the two.

Thanks!

1) Yes
2) No, the power comes solely from the starting battery; which is then (slowly) recharged by the second battery. The SmartPass120 the vehicle comes with acts as the isolator; although, given that all the factory electricals pull from the main battery, it doesn't work in the normal/traditional sense. My feeling is that Ineos expected owners to add non-factory electrical draws to the second battery, and the main battery recharge is more of a "just in case"
3) Not without adding an extra battery monitor.

 

[Logsplitter]

1) Yes
2) No, the power comes solely from the starting battery; which is then (slowly) recharged by the second battery. The SmartPass120 the vehicle comes with acts as the isolator; although, given that all the factory electricals pull from the main battery, it doesn't work in the normal/traditional sense. My feeling is that Ineos expected owners to add non-factory electrical draws to the second battery, and the main battery recharge is more of a "just in case"
3) Not without adding an extra battery monitor.

When I had the auxiliary connection on the smartpass blanked off which already had my fridge connected to it, The Ineos dealership where the work was carried out then connected the fridge to the starter battery. Don’t know whether that is right or wrong

 

[Ex-defender driver]

When I had the auxiliary connection on the smartpass blanked off which already had my fridge connected to it, The Ineos dealership where the work was carried out then connected the fridge to the starter battery. Don’t know whether that is right or wrong

Thats correct for the set up that Ineos terms a dual battery system - outlined in the Ronny Dahl you tube. If you want to run a “house” battery to run your accessories / fridge you will have to install a DCDC charger and a separate house battery - small lithium. This is the sensible way to run a fridge when parked up for days with no driving and only solar input.