Under dash UHF radio install

[AnD3rew]

If you take off the trim, you can see there is a control box mounted under the steering wheel.this is held in place by a steel bracket that has cut outs to reduce weight. I just cut a small plate that covered some of the cutouts allowing me to screw the radio bracket to that plate through the cut out areas. You could maybe use big washers to bridge the cut outs and bolt through them if you weren't confident with making a plate.

Ahh, I get it now. Thank you, thats simple, yes could use a nut and bolt and a washer, I see. Excellent

 

[Thinpins]

This is a short description of my install of my UHF radio under my steering wheel with the antenna (temporarily) attached to the grab rails. I'm still waiting for my roof rack. My vehicle is RHD with aux power. I used the grommet for my power outlets, under the grab bars. Removed the grab bar and fed the antenna through the grommet, along the roof inside, you'll see where to go once you take the grab bar off. Along the roof down the b pillar. Need to make sure you go behind the curtain airbag above the passenger door or you'll have a problem if you need it... To remove the B pillar trim, start at the bottom, remove the front door and rear door sill trim. Unscrew the bolts and lift the bottom piece off. There are two screws at the bottom of the next piece of trim which need to be removed and the top piece just clips in. You need a trim removal tool and be gentle. I have the removable hose out floor so lifted that in the front and rear. Once I got the cable to the ground, went under the middle of the chair as it was too tight where the wiring loom was. From there along rhs wiring loom on the floor on the RHS. I used the drivers side footwell power and the unit is a concealed one under my steering wheel behind the dash trim. Hardest part was getting the cable under the seat takes a bit of juggling... Sorry I didn't take pictures of the b pillar routing.

Did you remove the roof lining or was it easy enough to feed through to the b pillar once you removed the grab handle?

 

[bakepl]

Did you remove the roof lining or was it easy enough to feed through to the b pillar once you removed the grab handle?

No need to remove roof liner. Can gain enough access by dropping door seal. Careful not to interfere with air bag. B pillar plastics will need to be removed. Use same rubber grommet as power outlet if you have this feature.

 

[Born_ in_a_tent]

This is a short description of my install of my UHF radio under my steering wheel with the antenna (temporarily) attached to the grab rails. I'm still waiting for my roof rack. My vehicle is RHD with aux power. I used the grommet for my power outlets, under the grab bars. Removed the grab bar and fed the antenna through the grommet, along the roof inside, you'll see where to go once you take the grab bar off. Along the roof down the b pillar. Need to make sure you go behind the curtain airbag above the passenger door or you'll have a problem if you need it... To remove the B pillar trim, start at the bottom, remove the front door and rear door sill trim. Unscrew the bolts and lift the bottom piece off. There are two screws at the bottom of the next piece of trim which need to be removed and the top piece just clips in. You need a trim removal tool and be gentle. I have the removable hose out floor so lifted that in the front and rear. Once I got the cable to the ground, went under the middle of the chair as it was too tight where the wiring loom was. From there along rhs wiring loom on the floor on the RHS. I used the drivers side footwell power and the unit is a concealed one under my steering wheel behind the dash trim. Hardest part was getting the cable under the seat takes a bit of juggling... Sorry I didn't take pictures of the b pillar routing.

Hi All
I'm trying to run a UFH radio antenna cable from my roof down via the b pillar into the cabin. Having searched the forum this seems to have been done by others but I'm missing some details on routing the cable into the b pillar. Where does it need to be routed to get down the interior of the b pillar? I'm assuming the idea is to have the cable emerge from the pillar in the hole circled in yellow in the photo. I've seen some reference to dropping the door seal to assist in routing the cable but this isn't clear to me.

I could see a more straightforward route in through the big hole (number 3) then down under the roof liner to the door seal along the orange dotted route then run the cable between the pillar and the trim where the seatbelt goes. But this seems to conflict with the airbag above the rear passenger seat.

Any advice appreciated.

 

[DenisM]

Just found this post. Similar situation.I removed the tie down roof bar and composite panel and chose the large hole #2 from where I could see inside through the attachment point for the cargo barrier. I actually used a step drill to make a 8-10mm hole in the composite panel and inserted a gromet which was sealed in place with liquid insulating tape "goo" to feed in the coax. rather than through the existing electrical box. I noted the airbag is wrapped in a tube like arrangement similar to a roller blind. I passed the cable behind the airbag...i.e. between it and the external wall of the B pillar, fixing the cable to the the wall with a patch of Gorilla tape so that it will not impede the action of the airbag. I then fed the cable behind the B pillar trim to exit at the base. I plan to access the centre console cubby and mount the UHF radio (GME 330C) in there with the handset, and use the 12v power outlet already in place. Just need to find a suitable position to drill a small hole in the cubby to feed in the coax. from behind the outer trim panel....

 

[DenisM]

Update on the above

because of clearance constraints from the garage door, the antenna is positioned to hinge across the roof instead of parallel with the rain gutter. Note antenna cable penetrates the roof cover through a tight fitting sealed grommet behind the tie down bar


Above: chosen roof entry, driver's side


"Gorilla" tape keeping cable in place behind B-pillar trim

Below:. red line is edge of side airbag. Coax. cable positioned up behind airbag. Door seal (partially) removed from forward section of driver's side passenger door opening.

 

[Born_ in_a_tent]

What I ended up doing was the second option taking care to route the cable behind the curtain airbag.

 

[Born_ in_a_tent]

What I ended up doing was the second option taking care to route the cable behind the curtain airbag.

Aerial is mounted on the passenger side with uhf unit mounted under glove box. From the bottom of the b pillar the cable runs through the black plastic piece that is under the door scuff plate (this holds part of the wiring loom) and then behind trim panels in the passenger footwell. All nicely hidden and no drilling required.

I took the option of pushing the coax through the existing grommet used for the roof power supply. It was not an easy task and ended up a bit of a cesarian birth with use of forceps and a bit of impolite language thrown in. All good in the end though!

 

[Tr182md]

I am still looking for a spot form my Midland radio. The 50 watt is a little bigger.

The US Spec has an airbag on both sides under the steering and in front of passenger. I don’t see it in your photos, maybe I am missing it.

Any US trucks with the midland 575? I am surprised that there are not more posts. I could go under the front or rear seats. If I go under front seat I suppose I would have to go through that rubber pad or I thought I saw a generic bracket from Agile for under seat mount that could be used. If I went under back seat I would have to make some type of bracket. Maybe I could repurpose the brake controller bracket.

 

[Ovrland Bill]

My Midland MXT275 (15 watt GMRS) radio body held in position (at bottom support of rear seat) by use of bungee cords.

 

[n3qem]

Here's where I am so far. I haven't finished detailing the wiring yet. The back of the 3/4" plywood has a 12 port BlueSea fuse block on it, a 12v to 48v buck converter for the Starlink Mini on the roof, and it's fed by a 120A relay which is switched via the overhead panel.

The radios are (top-bottom, L-R) Ubiquiti UMR-Industrial router which preferentially uses terrestrial 4G, and Starlink if that's not available. Motorola XPR5550e business band UHF radio for work, Midland 575 GMRS, and Anytone AT-D578uviii Plus tri-band ham radio.

The internal antennas for the UMR-Industrial will go away as soon as I finalize antenna positioning off the Pioneer roof tray and can mount the 5G antenna.

Speaking of antennas, I'm a big fan of the Razed Products Antenna bracket used with the Rhino folding aerial mount. Allows me to really lower the profile of the truck easily, tucking everything except the Starlink antenna down below the roof tray-line. The Starlink just comes off with a quick-disconnect base.

Steve

 

[ADVAW8S]

Thanks to this thread and everyone that contributed. I connected my Midland radio to truck today. I ran the antenna through the electrical box and down inside of the B pillar. The antenna is connected to the lashing bar

 

[Tr182md]

Thanks to this thread and everyone that contributed. I connected my Midland radio to truck today. I ran the antenna through the electrical box and down inside of the B pillar. The antenna is connected to the lashing bar

where did you put the main unit?

 

[ADVAW8S]

where did you put the main unit?

I put it in the center console for now. I clipped the bracket to the card holder on the underside. But, I'm going to move it this week. I am going to attach it to the wall behind the seats in my QM. Then run the cables to battery. Finally run the additional mic cable to front and attach it underneath. Where I don't know yet.

 

[Tr182md]

I find this a challenge. Still looking. Seems like under rear seats is best option it is just a little tight, will have to make a bracket or get one and repurpose it.

 

[bougie]

I find this a challenge. Still looking. Seems like under rear seats is best option it is just a little tight, will have to make a bracket or get one and repurpose it.

TR182md:
I put my Midland 575 in the empty space in the battery box under the rear seats between the batteries. I fabricated a bracket out of 1.25 x 1 x 1/8, 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle, and .040 sheet metal. Did not have to drill any holes in the truck. Used two of the large Torx bolts in the vertical channels that hold the rear seat frame in.
I have attached some photos of the bracket with the dimensions written thereon. I attached the top angles with a plate nut because I wasn't sure I could pass it in with the radio installed and put together, but it fit assembled because the .040 sheet sides are flexible, so you could rivet or bolt the top angles together before installation if you prefer. I used a single bolt to attach the top angles in case the support channels were not perfectly square, but they were square and plumb, and the bracket angles all square up just fine. Grind the rear vertical of the top angles to fit the seat support channel, and it will tilt slightly down towards the front end to accommodate the antenna attachment nut. Have experienced no rattles, but cheated by putting a little foam between the seat support channel and the .040 sheet of the bracket on one side.
I was tempted to wire the radio to the secondary battery, but ran the power wiring to the left foot well wires so the secondary battery would keep its charge when using my truck as base station on hunting trips. Also, I was concerned the radio might have some parasitic draw, so I wanted it switched. Ineos uses the secondary battery as a reserve battery so you can start the engine if you run down the primary battery to which all of the power outlets are attached. I have some solar panels I can attach to the jump start points under the hood to feed the primary battery during the day when stationary.
I ran the radio's power lines under the channel along the left (driver) side to the battery box, the microphone extension cord under the same channel to the front of the driver's seat, then under the plastic and foam floor cladding to the transmission tunnel, and the antenna cable through the firewall grommet you find when you remove the panel on the right side to access the power lines in the right (passenger) footwell, then under the plastic and foam floor cladding and under the passenger seat and rear foot well flooring to the radio. See John Canny's YouTube video of his UHF install for the location of the firewall grommet. Use some good tape to keep the cables in the recesses of the floor pan under the plastic and foam floor cladding

. I mounted the Midland ghost antenna on the magnetic antenna base on the roof between the snorkel and the Starlink Mini antenna. I used magnetic tie wrap bases to run the antenna wire to the snorkel, along behind the snorkel, then into the engine bay and through the grommet hole. Used the same magnetic tie wrap bases to run the Starlink Mini cable to the right front roof power outlet.
I fabricated a bracket out of .040 aluminum sheet to mount the microphone to the Owl mounting bracket with one of the Ram ball mounts serving double duty.
Good luck.

 

[bougie]

I find this a challenge. Still looking. Seems like under rear seats is best option it is just a little tight, will have to make a bracket or get one and repurpose it.

TR182md:
I put my Midland 575 in the empty space in the battery box under the rear seats between the batteries. I fabricated a bracket out of 1.25 x 1 x 1/8, 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle, and .040 sheet metal. Did not have to drill any holes in the truck. Used two of the large Torx bolts in the vertical channels that hold the rear seat frame in.
I have attached some photos of the bracket with the dimensions written thereon. I attached the top angles with a plate nut because I wasn't sure I could pass it in with the radio installed and put together, but it fit assembled because the .040 sheet sides are flexible, so you could rivet or bolt the top angles together before installation if you prefer. I used a single bolt to attach the top angles in case the support channels were not perfectly square, but they were square and plumb, and the bracket angles all square up just fine. Grind the rear vertical of the top angles to fit the seat support channel, and it will tilt slightly down towards the front end to accommodate the antenna attachment nut. Have experienced no rattles, but cheated by putting a little foam between the seat support channel and the .040 sheet of the bracket on one side.
I was tempted to wire the radio to the secondary battery, but ran the power wiring to the left foot well wires so the secondary battery would keep its charge when using my truck as base station on hunting trips. Also, I was concerned the radio might have some parasitic draw, so I wanted it switched. Ineos uses the secondary battery as a reserve battery so you can start the engine if you run down the primary battery to which all of the power outlets are attached. I have some solar panels I can attach to the jump start points under the hood to feed the primary battery during the day when stationary.
I ran the radio's power lines under the channel along the left (driver) side to the battery box, the microphone extension cord under the same channel to the front of the driver's seat, then under the plastic and foam floor cladding to the transmission tunnel, and the antenna cable through the firewall grommet you find when you remove the panel on the right side to access the power lines in the right (passenger) footwell, then under the plastic and foam floor cladding and under the passenger seat and rear foot well flooring to the radio. See John Canny's YouTube video of his UHF install for the location of the firewall grommet. Use some good tape to keep the cables in the recesses of the floor pan under the plastic and foam floor claddingView attachment 7908474View attachment 7908475View attachment 7908476View attachment 7908477View attachment 7908478View attachment 7908479View attachment 7908479View attachment 7908480View attachment 7908481View attachment 7908482View attachment 7908483View attachment 7908484View attachment 7908485View attachment 7908486View attachment 7908487View attachment 7908488View attachment 7908489View attachment 7908490View attachment 7908491View attachment 7908492View attachment 7908493View attachment 7908496View attachment 7908497View attachment 7908497. I mounted the Midland ghost antenna on the magnetic antenna base on the roof between the snorkel and the Starlink Mini antenna. I used magnetic tie wrap bases to run the antenna wire to the snorkel, along behind the snorkel, then into the engine bay and through the grommet hole. Used the same magnetic tie wrap bases to run the Starlink Mini cable to the right front roof power outlet.
I fabricated a bracket out of .040 aluminum sheet to mount the microphone to the Owl mounting bracket with one of the Ram ball mounts serving double duty.
Good luck.

 

[bougie]

The bottom angles are of 3/4 x 3/4 x 1/8 stock. Sorry.

 

[Logsplitter]

TR182md:
I put my Midland 575 in the empty space in the battery box under the rear seats between the batteries. I fabricated a bracket out of 1.25 x 1 x 1/8, 1 x 1 x 1/8 aluminum angle, and .040 sheet metal. Did not have to drill any holes in the truck. Used two of the large Torx bolts in the vertical channels that hold the rear seat frame in.
I have attached some photos of the bracket with the dimensions written thereon. I attached the top angles with a plate nut because I wasn't sure I could pass it in with the radio installed and put together, but it fit assembled because the .040 sheet sides are flexible, so you could rivet or bolt the top angles together before installation if you prefer. I used a single bolt to attach the top angles in case the support channels were not perfectly square, but they were square and plumb, and the bracket angles all square up just fine. Grind the rear vertical of the top angles to fit the seat support channel, and it will tilt slightly down towards the front end to accommodate the antenna attachment nut. Have experienced no rattles, but cheated by putting a little foam between the seat support channel and the .040 sheet of the bracket on one side.
I was tempted to wire the radio to the secondary battery, but ran the power wiring to the left foot well wires so the secondary battery would keep its charge when using my truck as base station on hunting trips. Also, I was concerned the radio might have some parasitic draw, so I wanted it switched. Ineos uses the secondary battery as a reserve battery so you can start the engine if you run down the primary battery to which all of the power outlets are attached. I have some solar panels I can attach to the jump start points under the hood to feed the primary battery during the day when stationary.
I ran the radio's power lines under the channel along the left (driver) side to the battery box, the microphone extension cord under the same channel to the front of the driver's seat, then under the plastic and foam floor cladding to the transmission tunnel, and the antenna cable through the firewall grommet you find when you remove the panel on the right side to access the power lines in the right (passenger) footwell, then under the plastic and foam floor cladding and under the passenger seat and rear foot well flooring to the radio. See John Canny's YouTube video of his UHF install for the location of the firewall grommet. Use some good tape to keep the cables in the recesses of the floor pan under the plastic and foam floor claddingView attachment 7908474View attachment 7908475View attachment 7908476View attachment 7908477View attachment 7908478View attachment 7908479View attachment 7908479View attachment 7908480View attachment 7908481View attachment 7908482View attachment 7908483View attachment 7908484View attachment 7908485View attachment 7908486View attachment 7908487View attachment 7908488View attachment 7908489View attachment 7908490View attachment 7908491View attachment 7908492View attachment 7908493View attachment 7908496View attachment 7908497View attachment 7908497. I mounted the Midland ghost antenna on the magnetic antenna base on the roof between the snorkel and the Starlink Mini antenna. I used magnetic tie wrap bases to run the antenna wire to the snorkel, along behind the snorkel, then into the engine bay and through the grommet hole. Used the same magnetic tie wrap bases to run the Starlink Mini cable to the right front roof power outlet.
I fabricated a bracket out of .040 aluminum sheet to mount the microphone to the Owl mounting bracket with one of the Ram ball mounts serving double duty.
Good luck.

Thank-you. Very usefull. I’m not putting in a radio but need to make a bracket up to support an mppt solar controller I want to install. I had not quite worked out how to put several bends in a sheet of aluminium. Using preformed angle and rivets is a great idea.

 

[Greasemonkey]

Whenever I need something bent (folded) (3 or 4 mm aluminum, 3 mm stainless, or 4, 6, or 10 mm mild steel), I always go to my local metalworking shop. They have the material I need, and they have a 200-ton press brake with which they can bend or fold the workpieces according to my specifications.