Stuck at Cape York

[AWo]

Can't look at it.....I hope these were kinetic ropes...

View: https://youtube.com/shorts/s6lsS7YYR9M?si=8sAm_vVChZCPhXz4


AWo

 

[Tom D]

Does anyone know if the gearbox can be out into neutral electronically? Or does the engine have to be running to provide hydraulic pressure?

Just wondering if its a feature that could be added to the code reader…

 

[ADVAW8S]

Does anyone know if the gearbox can be out into neutral electronically? Or does the engine have to be running to provide hydraulic pressure?

Just wondering if its a feature that could be added to the code reader…

I was wondering if the car wash mode would work like it does for the winch as long as you have battery power. You put truck in neutral, turn off the engine and turn the key back to ACC. The Grenadier doesn't jump into park and you are in neutral to move the vehicle a short distance.

 

[Tazzieman]

I was wondering if the car wash mode would work like it does for the winch as long as you have battery power. You put truck in neutral, turn off the engine and turn the key back to ACC. The Grenadier doesn't jump into park and you are in neutral to move the vehicle a short distance.

Correct. Ironically, destroying one's engine by fording a deep river is a sort of carwash .

 

[RY-Journeyman]

Very illuminating thanks all for the info.

Key messages:

1. Don’t cross rivers when they are too deep for your vehicle and setup.

2. Reminder that diesel engines hydrolock when flooded which is very expensive to repair - usually needs a new engine.

3. A new bmw engine and turbo etc from Ineos costs about $30-35,000 AUD.

4. Social media is a mixed blessing and can destroy reputations faster than build them.

5. Journalists creating click bait headlines run the risk of being caught out if the click bait isn’t truthful.

6. Seemingly nice people can get caught in the frenzy to make content and forget about journalistic integrity.

7. And most importantly, we’re all human and can have brain farts - like items 1, 5 and 6 above. And that actions usually have consequences.

Agree with others that this saga should be highlighted to stop negativity and falsehoods damaging Ineos reputation and causing undue angst in existing owners, and also that this has now been successfully achieved and it is likely time to move on. Goading the relevant parties to eke out an explanation or apology isn’t likely to yield much more of value.

My only question is are there any learning points for forum members from this such as on how to cross deep rivers safely when your vehicle is going to be potentially submerged beyond manufacturer specified safe depths. For instance in an emergency. Are there any tips or tricks that can be applied in the field to temporarily allow the vehicle to wade safely or is it a fools errand? Any advice on this from experienced drivers is very much appreciated.

 

[TheDocAUS]

My only question is are there any learning points for forum members from this such as on how to cross deep rivers safely when your vehicle is going to be potentially submerged beyond manufacturer specified safe depths. For instance in an emergency. Are there any tips or tricks that can be applied in the field to temporarily allow the vehicle to wade safely or is it a fools errand? Any advice on this from experienced drivers is very much appreciated.

There is no safe way to cross water above the max wading depth. There are only ways to reduce the risk. For any water crossing consider the following:

1. The main safeguard is getting a sealed snorkel and sealed airbox. Also read the thread on sealed snorkels here.
2. An INEOS RAI is better than no intake, when going over max wading depth. See the Michael H video below on why that is.
3. Engage WADING mode on the IG or QM. Let the car cool down before crossing. Watch the @Michael H video below for more INEOS specific tips.
4. Cover the front of the car with canvas or a car bra to limit water going into the engine bay.
5. Properly prepare the car for a water crossing. See the first Ronny Dahl video below.
6. Drive the water crossing properly. See the second Ronny Dahl video below.
7. Do a quality off road training course, including water crossings, before you go offroad. It is a must do, not an optional extra. Those that do not, often pay a heavy price.
8. Both the vehicle and the driver need preparation. Neither is optional, both are required.
9. Put you Big Boy Pants on, or do not do water crossings. You often have a choice.

View: https://youtu.be/ONHrgU_8cdU?t=168

View: https://youtu.be/Qg0xxf07RH4

View: https://youtu.be/mX-amVUtMcI

 

[NQ94]

There is no safe way to cross water above the max wading depth. There are only ways to reduce the risk. For any water crossing consider the following:

1. The main safeguard is getting a sealed snorkel and sealed airbox. Also read the thread on sealed snorkels here.
2. An INEOS RAI is better than no intake, when going over max wading depth. See the Michael H video below on why that is.
3. Engage WADING mode on the IG or QM. Let the car cool down before crossing. Watch the @Michael H video below for more INEOS specific tips.
4. Cover the front of the car with canvas or a car bra to limit water going into the engine bay.
5. Properly prepare the car for a water crossing. See the first Ronny Dahl video below.
6. Drive the water crossing properly. See the second Ronny Dahl video below.
7. Do a quality off road training course, including water crossings, before you go offroad. It is a must do, not an optional extra. Those that do not, often pay a heavy price.
8. Both the vehicle and the driver need preparation. Neither is optional, both are required.
9. Put you Big Boy Pants on, or do not do water crossings. You often have a choice.
   
   
   
   View: https://youtu.be/mX-amVUtMcI[/SIZE][/I]

1. 
   Most of these videos people are still only opening the bonnet and spraying water dispersant on connectors there. Most cars are auto now and some like the Ineos only shift by wire and need t/case inputs to the ecu for the car to function. It's a good idea to get under and spray the connectors for the transmission and t/case. These connectors are some of the first to get fully submerged in deep water and pushed through the water more than the engine connectors and have the potential to stop a car from starting or selecting gears. It pays to inspect these regularly as well as the chassis wiring on a trip that involves a lot of water crossings.
   I like to use Industrial lanotec lanolin spray to spray connectors, it's a bit messy but seems to work better and does not damage the wire seals like some petroleum based sprays.

 

[Nadir5]

1. 
   Most of these videos people are still only opening the bonnet and spraying water dispersant on connectors there. Most cars are auto now and some like the Ineos only shift by wire and need t/case inputs to the ecu for the car to function. It's a good idea to get under and spray the connectors for the transmission and t/case. These connectors are some of the first to get fully submerged in deep water and pushed through the water more than the engine connectors and have the potential to stop a car from starting or selecting gears. It pays to inspect these regularly as well as the chassis wiring on a trip that involves a lot of water crossings.
   I like to use Industrial lanotec lanolin spray to spray connectors, it's a bit messy but seems to work better and does not damage the wire seals like some petroleum based sprays.

Seems spraying under the truck like that could be challenging with skid plates installed. Will have to spend some time under the truck trying to figure out how to get spray where it needs to go.

 

[Tazzieman]

I like to use Industrial lanotec lanolin spray to spray connectors

The sheepy smell is not for the mall
Good product though.

 

[AWo]

I recommend ECS 71 spray.
It is a polyurethan electronics and circuit board protection spray up to 72kV.

It suppresses water first and generates a flexible but water tight skin.

I use it for winch contacts, ECU's and plugs.

https://www.ecsag.com/wp-content/uploads/TDS%204:25/TDS_771.000.000._de.pdf

And, for the Ineos fans.....Ineos uses it to protect electric equipment which is located outside.

AWo

 

[Tazzieman]

I recommend ECS 71 spray.

And, for the Ineos fans.....Ineos uses it to protect electric equipment which is located outside.

They probably supply the chemicals it's made from.
Australia supplies the sheep that makes our Lanox

 

[CRH]

What is classed as a water crossing. We have ford's that are shallow or deep depending on the rainfall but generally short distances.

As someone who does want to do an off road coarse but hasn't, any chance of some education for the people who have no clue and will likely only come across flooding.
One comment above, let vehicle cool down. How cool, for what depth/distance. This kind of info would be useful for careful users.

 

[ECrider]

What is classed as a water crossing. We have ford's that are shallow or deep depending on the rainfall but generally short distances.

As someone who does want to do an off road coarse but hasn't, any chance of some education for the people who have no clue and will likely only come across flooding.
One comment above, let vehicle cool down. How cool, for what depth/distance. This kind of info would be useful for careful users.

Subjective bit for me anything coming up to hub height meaning your diffs are going to get a cold shock. For me if I have time then 15mins or so.

Unknown fords then don't trust the depth gauge, get out and have a walk in if in doubt.

As my old games master used to say 'no time for trunks boys....' I now believe there is always more time than you think!

 

[CRH]

Subjective bit for me anything coming up to hub height meaning your diffs are going to get a cold shock. For me if I have time then 15mins or so.

Unknown fords then don't trust the depth gauge, get out and have a walk in if in doubt.

As my old games master used to say 'no time for trunks boys....' I now believe there is always more time than you think!

I think we need an education section for newbies to proper 4x4s. I used to just point my Freelander 2 at anything (that I considered possible ie. very easy) and drive carefully through, up, along or down. Always read the information on each lane prior and tried to look at pictures or video before hand to see if possible. Most of the time I chickened out but I did always need my vehicle for work too.

 

[ECrider]

I think we need an education section for newbies to proper 4x4s. I used to just point my Freelander 2 at anything (that I considered possible ie. very easy) and drive carefully through, up, along or down. Always read the information on each lane prior and tried to look at pictures or video before hand to see if possible. Most of the time I chickened out but I did always need my vehicle for work too.

As in cricket, nothing wrong with a 'good leave'

 

[Max]

My only question is are there any learning points for forum members from this such as on how to cross deep rivers safely when your vehicle is going to be potentially submerged beyond manufacturer specified safe depths. For instance in an emergency. Are there any tips or tricks that can be applied in the field to temporarily allow the vehicle to wade safely or is it a fools errand? Any advice on this from experienced drivers is very much appreciated.

Traveling in remote areas alone and you put yourself in an emergency situation...you must make sure you can be in contact with help, being lifted out by air is not out of the equation. Epirb and flares can be lifesaving devices.
You should have your vehicle set up for what can be thrown at you. Expect the unknown, nature has no mercy and can throw daggers at any time, rain, rock fall, erosion and falling trees, the list goes on. If the water is flowing quickly and you haven't walked the crossing[North Queensland salty crocodiles], I wouldn't attempt it but if you find the depth is not going to be hard up against the vehicle I would go it. Generally I choose not to travel in remote areas alone but have done and tried very hard to find out as much info of the area, tracks, weather and whatever is going to put you in a difficult situation. I have traveled where I reported to the police of my route and ETA, then report to the police the other end. Peace of mind is in your favor.

 

[landmannnn]

I think we need an education section for newbies to proper 4x4s. I used to just point my Freelander 2 at anything (that I considered possible ie. very easy) and drive carefully through, up, along or down. Always read the information on each lane prior and tried to look at pictures or video before hand to see if possible. Most of the time I chickened out but I did always need my vehicle for work too.

Someone could indeed write 10,000 words giving basic 4x4 education. Saying that, an hour's tuition would impart ten times more knowledge.

Put it another way, if as a teenager you were learning to drive from a book you wouldn't even come close to passing a driving test.

 

[TheDocAUS]

I think we need an education section for newbies to proper 4x4s. I used to just point my Freelander 2 at anything (that I considered possible ie. very easy) and drive carefully through, up, along or down. Always read the information on each lane prior and tried to look at pictures or video before hand to see if possible. Most of the time I chickened out but I did always need my vehicle for work too.

Many years ago, before I went remote, I joined the Toyota Landcruiser Club, were membership requires a 2.5 day driver training course. Everyone is required to do it. Only a couple of things over the years were harder than that training course.

It was an exceptionally well run course, run by Club members.

 

[Clark Kent]

Traveling in remote areas alone and you put yourself in an emergency situation...you must make sure you can be in contact with help, being lifted out by air is not out of the equation. Epirb and flares can be lifesaving devices.
You should have your vehicle set up for what can be thrown at you. Expect the unknown, nature has no mercy and can throw daggers at any time, rain, rock fall, erosion and falling trees, the list goes on. If the water is flowing quickly and you haven't walked the crossing[North Queensland salty crocodiles], I wouldn't attempt it but if you find the depth is not going to be hard up against the vehicle I would go it. Generally I choose not to travel in remote areas alone but have done and tried very hard to find out as much info of the area, tracks, weather and whatever is going to put you in a difficult situation. I have traveled where I reported to the police of my route and ETA, then report to the police the other end. Peace of mind is in your favor.

Nice summary @Max.

I'll add in a few ideas to contribute while this thread is back on a positive note.

1. Do an off-road driving and off-road recovery course with your own vehicle. If you have a partner take them with you and ensure they participate. One day they might need to evacuate you.

2. Do a first aid and CPR course. Your travel partner should do them as well. For remote travel top it up with a remote area first aid course. The latter gives you the additional knowledge to manage injuries and illnesses while waiting for help which in remote areas could be many hours.
Australian first aid course codes:
Provide First Aid. HLTAID011
Provide CPR. HLTAID009
Provide Remote Area First Aid. HLTAID013

3. If travelling as part of a group, plan for common emergencies. Get together to talk through them well before departure. It's a series of what-if topics. There's no time for a committee meeting during an emergency. Assign roles to group members so everyone has something useful to do if an emergency occurs, be that retrieve a first aid kit, phone for help, attack a fire, remove and protect children, frail or elderly, take photos of the scene (insurance, legal), etc.

4. Again if travelling in a group, do an audit and share around a list of who is carrying specific recovery, first aid and communications equipment. It's not essential for every vehicle to have a sat phone although many prefer the security of having their own. The group might throw in some money and rent one or two sat phone/s for a trip. Know where it/they are carried. Carry a spare 12v DC charger.

5. Carry a go bag (a.k.a a bug-out bag). Easiest to Google this to get some ideas. After your travel companions, it's the 2nd thing you must grab if you need to quickly abandon your vehicle. That means it cannot be packed out of reach. Think of what you and your passengers need to survive for 72 hours including shelter, first aid, prescription meds, communications (incl. charging) and water/water purification. Food is useful but should be lower down the list. You probably won't die from hunger within 72 hours. A backpack is sufficient. Remember to adjust the contents if there are extra people in your vehicle.

6. Share your travel plans with a trusted person and provide them with timely updates if your plan changes. Ensure they have your vehicle details as well. In lieu of a sat phone a satellite communicator is used for this in areas outside cellular phone coverage. A pre-programmed thumbs-up message at the end of each day is peace of mind for everyone. A missed message should be followed up within an agreed period. As Max noted; local police, shops and pubs are usually happy to record your details as you pass through and they become points of contact for people trying to locate you if you have failed to check in with your trusted person.

7. If you purchase a PLB be sure to register it with the relevant authority. In Australia the law requires that all emergency and distress beacons are registered with AMSA. AMSA has a trip details facility built into your account page so you can document travel plans and dates. This helps AMSA begin to co-ordinate local resources and validate beacon activations against your travel dates. If you borrow a PLB remember that in the event of activation AMSA will contact the beacon owner not you. Ensure the beacon owner has all of your contact details and the details of your trip. The owner can put your trip plan and contact details on their AMSA account page so AMSA know to contact you.

There's so much more to say. As noted already, get involved with a club and do some supported trips before heading off by yourself.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Nice summary @Max.

I'll add in a few ideas to contribute while this thread is back on a positive note.

1. Do an off-road driving and off-road recovery course with your own vehicle. If you have a partner take them with you and ensure they participate. One day they might need to evacuate you.

2. Do a first aid and CPR course. Your travel partner should do them as well. For remote travel top it up with a remote area first aid course. The latter gives you the additional knowledge to manage injuries and illnesses while waiting for help which in remote areas could be many hours.
Australian first aid course codes:
Provide First Aid. HLTAID011
Provide CPR. HLTAID009
Provide Remote Area First Aid. HLTAID013

3. If travelling as part of a group, plan for common emergencies. Get together to talk through them well before departure. It's a series of what-if topics. There's no time for a committee meeting during an emergency. Assign roles to group members so everyone has something useful to do if an emergency occurs, be that retrieve a first aid kit, phone for help, attack a fire, remove and protect children, frail or elderly, take photos of the scene (insurance, legal), etc.

4. Again if travelling in a group, do an audit and share around a list of who is carrying specific recovery, first aid and communications equipment. It's not essential for every vehicle to have a sat phone although many prefer the security of having their own. The group might throw in some money and rent one or two sat phone/s for a trip. Know where it/they are carried. Carry a spare 12v DC charger.

5. Carry a go bag (a.k.a a bug-out bag). Easiest to Google this to get some ideas. After your travel companions, it's the 2nd thing you must grab if you need to quickly abandon your vehicle. That means it cannot be packed out of reach. Think of what you and your passengers need to survive for 72 hours including shelter, first aid, prescription meds, communications (incl. charging) and water/water purification. Food is useful but should be lower down the list. You probably won't die from hunger within 72 hours. A backpack is sufficient. Remember to adjust the contents if there are extra people in your vehicle.

6. Share your travel plans with a trusted person and provide them with timely updates if your plan changes. Ensure they have your vehicle details as well. In lieu of a sat phone a satellite communicator is used for this in areas outside cellular phone coverage. A pre-programmed thumbs-up message at the end of each day is peace of mind for everyone. A missed message should be followed up within an agreed period. As Max noted; local police, shops and pubs are usually happy to record your details as you pass through and they become points of contact for people trying to locate you if you have failed to check in with your trusted person.

7. If you purchase a PLB be sure to register it with the relevant authority. In Australia the law requires that all emergency and distress beacons are registered with AMSA. AMSA has a trip details facility built into your account page so you can document travel plans and dates. This helps AMSA begin to co-ordinate local resources and validate beacon activations against your travel dates. If you borrow a PLB remember that in the event of activation AMSA will contact the beacon owner not you. Ensure the beacon owner has all of your contact details and the details of your trip. The owner can put your trip plan and contact details on their AMSA account page so AMSA know to contact you.

There's so much more to say. As noted already, get involved with a club and do some supported trips before heading off by yourself.

We should put our heads together again @Clark Kent You've posted some good material for the Remote area travel section of the "Manual" and also reminded me of a few things I've forgotten I knew.
Cheers
Steve