Spare wheel lockable box

[Tony]

Thought it worth passing on my experience today in removing the spare wheel. First the storage box has to be removed, however trying to unscrew the three torque screws was extremely difficult! They were so tight that I broke two of my torque keys but eventually managed. I reflected that I would not have been to pleased at trying to do this in the dark with the rain lashing down! Thought I would pass the experience on to others who might have the storage box option - worth checking

 

[Eric]

Thought it worth passing on my experience today in removing the spare wheel. First the storage box has to be removed, however trying to unscrew the three torque screws was extremely difficult! They were so tight that I broke two of my torque keys but eventually managed. I reflected that I would not have been to pleased at trying to do this in the dark with the rain lashing down! Thought I would pass the experience on to others who might have the storage box option - worth checking

Isn't there a torque key in the provided tool set under the driver's seat specifically to remove those screws?

 

[Tony]

Isn't there a torque key in the provided tool set under the driver's seat specifically to remove those screws?

Yes there is and it broke!

 

[Eric]

Yes there is and it broke!

Ah, I would have presumed the one provided was of decent quality. Chinese steel then.

 

[trobex]

Cheap spare wheel lock box and cheap plastic rear gate internal infill panel. Seems to be a few cheap bits on the areas IA engineers didn't care much for... hopefully these "bits" last the life of the vehicle. We are still waiting!!!

 

[DaBull]

Cheap spare wheel lock box and cheap plastic rear gate internal infill panel. Seems to be a few cheap bits on the areas IA engineers didn't care much for... hopefully these "bits" last the life of the vehicle. We are still waiting!!!

I would recommend when anyone gets their Grenadier they take off these 3 torque screws while at home and lightly coat them with Ultra Tuf-Gel and then install them again. That will prevent them from seizing up and any galvanic corrosion. You can buy it direct from Ultra Tuf-Gel or on Amazon. Expensive, however it is the best, especially if you are in a marine or coastal environment. It is used extensively in the marine industry. There may be other fitting, screws and bolts that are either similar metal or dissimilar metals where using this in advance can save you hours of pain and dollars later by preventing seizing and galvanic corrosion. A little of this goes along way, so it is worth the investment. Be careful to not over torque when using any lubricant, as the torque settings will change. From what I have read, best to not use on wheel studs or wheel nuts as you can snap a stud and may not have as secure tightening and hold as without it. I have used it on my 2020 Defender Rhino rack. I had an experience with some surf racks I put on a prior Range Rover Sport and when I went to sell it, I wanted to take them off and put them on my new vehicle. For the life of me I could not get them off the vehicle and had to let them go to the new buyer. Been using Ultra Tuf-Gel on everything since. DaBull

 

[::matthew]

I have a similar box on my G Wagen and it definitely takes a bit of effort to remove - even if the hardware isn't stuck.

 

[Tony]

Ah, I would have presumed the one provided was of decent quality. Chinese steel then.

Yes! very brittle

 

[Tony]

I would recommend when anyone gets their Grenadier they take off these 3 torque screws while at home and lightly coat them with Ultra Tuf-Gel and then install them again. That will prevent them from seizing up and any galvanic corrosion. You can buy it direct from Ultra Tuf-Gel or on Amazon. Expensive, however it is the best, especially if you are in a marine or coastal environment. It is used extensively in the marine industry. There may be other fitting, screws and bolts that are either similar metal or dissimilar metals where using this in advance can save you hours of pain and dollars later by preventing seizing and galvanic corrosion. A little of this goes along way, so it is worth the investment. Be careful to not over torque when using any lubricant, as the torque settings will change. From what I have read, best to not use on wheel studs or wheel nuts as you can snap a stud and may not have as secure tightening and hold as without it. I have used it on my 2020 Defender Rhino rack. I had an experience with some surf racks I put on a prior Range Rover Sport and when I went to sell it, I wanted to take them off and put them on my new vehicle. For the life of me I could not get them off the vehicle and had to let them go to the new buyer. Been using Ultra Tuf-Gel on everything since. DaBull

Thanks, good advice

 

[DCPU]

Thought it worth passing on my experience today in removing the spare wheel. First the storage box has to be removed, however trying to unscrew the three torque screws was extremely difficult! They were so tight that I broke two of my torque keys but eventually managed. I reflected that I would not have been to pleased at trying to do this in the dark with the rain lashing down! Thought I would pass the experience on to others who might have the storage box option - worth checking

Was there threadlock on them?

 

[Ever Pragmatic]

After reading all the comments, I’ve done the exercise of removing the cover and spare wheel.. It was a piece of piss three minute job in my case…. The hex screws came out with no trouble, ditto the spare. There was enough torque on all the fixing to prevent them working lose and no thread lock present. The cover acts as a stud catcher which would be handy on a dark and stormy night.

My Gren was a mid December build and has the alloy wheel spare. Now they are off, I’ll apply a smidge of silicone grease before putting them back on.

Used all the Ineos tools..

 

[Tazzieman]

Cheap spare wheel lock box and cheap plastic rear gate internal infill panel. Seems to be a few cheap bits on the areas IA engineers didn't care much for... hopefully these "bits" last the life of the vehicle. We are still waiting!!!

You know it's a cut price G wagen , cos Big Jim said so ages ago.
Buy a G wagen and be done with your eternal angst

 

[DenisM]

After reading all the comments, I’ve done the exercise of removing the cover and spare wheel.. It was a piece of piss three minute job in my case…. The hex screws came out with no trouble, ditto the spare. There was enough torque on all the fixing to prevent them working lose and no thread lock present. The cover acts as a stud catcher which would be handy on a dark and stormy night.

My Gren was a mid December build and has the alloy wheel spare. Now they are off, I’ll apply a smidge of silicone grease before putting them back on.

Used all the Ineos tools..

Rather than silicone grease, I strongly suggest a "smidge" of copper-based anti-seize grease on the threads.

 

[Ever Pragmatic]

Rather than silicone grease, I strongly suggest a "smidge" of copper-based anti-seize grease on the threads.

Good advice but what’s the reason for copper v silicone?

 

[DenisM]

Good advice but what’s the reason for copper v silicone?

A thin layer of silicone grease will stop moisture penetration ok and reduce galvanic corrosion if it's mostly sheltered from direct water penetration. I tend to use copper grease (albeit sparingly) because it has a high solid content, can enable a truer clamp force to withstand corrugations, and seems less prone to corrosion especially if water is able to penetrate via "capillary action"... just my experience over years gone by spending a lot of time at the inlaws' "surfside" beach house (long gone ... )

 

[Miki]

I prefer copperslip on ferritic metals (steel, stainless etc) and a silicone grease on plastics, rubber, glass and anodised/creacoted alluminium.
A bolt passing through a void (the chassis for example) always gets a liberal coating of copperslip.
Hub faces and the inside of wheels as well as the studs get a light coating in my garage too along with any removable screw/bolt or nut unless they need loctite (brake caliper bolts for example).

I've learn't this from may years working on Landrovers.

 

[Ever Pragmatic]

A thin layer of silicone grease will stop moisture penetration ok and reduce galvanic corrosion if it's mostly sheltered from direct water penetration. I tend to use copper grease (albeit sparingly) because it has a high solid content, can enable a truer clamp force to withstand corrugations, and seems less prone to corrosion especially if water is able to penetrate via "capillary action"... just my experience over years gone by spending a lot of time at the inlaws' "surfside" beach house (long gone ... )

It’s about the only thing I’m missing in my man cave. By the miracle of Amazon, it’ll be here tomorrow..

one thing that did strike me was how nice the spare wheel mounting was.. it’s cast aluminium and has clearly got past the Ineos cost accountants.

 

[Eric]

It’s about the only thing I’m missing in my man cave. By the miracle of Amazon, it’ll be here tomorrow..

one thing that did strike me was how nice the spare wheel mounting was.. it’s cast aluminium and has clearly got past the Ineos cost accountants.

50% of my copper grease is in my workshop and 50% is in my wardrobe on most of my shirts and trousers

 

[DCPU]

I was going to post about being careful with it as it does get everywhere, but you've beaten me to it.

 

[DCPU]

A few photos to illustrate the task: