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Warning - spare wheel cover

ericge

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Woke up to find one of the rear door windows smashed - probably due to a kookaburra or similar striking at a gecko (delights of country Australia!) First step in replacement was to remove the spare wheel from its bracket by taking off the cover.... The small bolt holding the cover in place was very tight. Using a socket set, I got it to turn, but it was simply spinning in place. The only way to get the cover off and access the securing nuts was to bend the cover and get my hand and a big screwdriver in to lever the bolt out. Found that the bolt was screwed into a brass sleeve moulded into a plastic box-like shape. The brass sleeve had torn loose of the plastic but managed to lever it out with the screwdriver. I hope the wheel cover will return to its original shape but I will have to get a new mounting from the dealer (for free, I hope!)

Now the spare wheel is a invitation to any thief who wants to unbolt it, and I'm trying to find a lock nut to make that more difficult. Our nearest town is 250 km away...

I am guessing that whoever mounted the spare wheel was too enthusiastic with their rattle gun.
 

anand

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Woke up to find one of the rear door windows smashed - probably due to a kookaburra or similar striking at a gecko (delights of country Australia!)
Sorry to hear about the window, but this is one of the most Australian things I have read...

Was your cover mounted with the Torx or a traditional hex bolt? I believe this was updated at some point (to the hex bolt in place of the older Torx), so perhaps that has something to do with it. If you have the hex bolt, then I'll purely agree that someone got a bit too happy with the tightening torque, it is all plastic anyways and doesn't need much
 

Trialmaster

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Mine is build 1070 and has a hex. Reason I know is I bought some locking wheel nuts £63, to try to slow down the tea leaves!
 

ericge

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Hi ericge, do you have a photo you can share?
Hi ericge, do you have a photo you can share?
Here is the bolt firmly embedded in its brass sleeve. I can't find the small moulding that should be holding the brass sleeve. I must have put it somewhere during all the faffing around (I also drove off with my mobile sitting on the rear bumper - was not a good day!) And yes, this is definitely the hex bolt version.
 

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ericge

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And all that was the good news... Now the bad news - I have just found today that a replacement for the window will be $2,196.00! Plus fitting, of course. Not available from after-market suppliers in Australia and that is the INEOS price, like it or not. And it's only a small flat window.

OK, I was prepared for it to be more expensive than a regular vehicle but that's ridiculous. Anyone know of a UK or European supplier?
 

ericge

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And all that was the good news... Now the bad news - I have just found today that a replacement for the window will be $2,196.00! Plus fitting, of course. Not available from after-market suppliers in Australia and that is the INEOS price, like it or not. And it's only a small flat window.

OK, I was prepared for it to be more expensive than a regular vehicle but that's ridiculous. Anyone know of a UK or European supplier?
I may have a solution. A Cairns workshop produces custom toughened glass and will be able to cut the window with proper rounded corners and the hole for the wiper. They can even do the black colour band at the margins. Not cheap, of course; the telephone quote was $140. Now I have to produce a template for them to copy. Note: I will have to do without a window heater - not a problem up here in the tropics.
 

bigleonski

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And all that was the good news... Now the bad news - I have just found today that a replacement for the window will be $2,196.00! Plus fitting, of course. Not available from after-market suppliers in Australia and that is the INEOS price, like it or not. And it's only a small flat window.

OK, I was prepared for it to be more expensive than a regular vehicle but that's ridiculous. Anyone know of a UK or European supplier?


Seriously?? That’s theft FFS.
 

TXJOHN

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And all that was the good news... Now the bad news - I have just found today that a replacement for the window will be $2,196.00! Plus fitting, of course. Not available from after-market suppliers in Australia and that is the INEOS price, like it or not. And it's only a small flat window.

OK, I was prepared for it to be more expensive than a regular vehicle but that's ridiculous. Anyone know of a UK or European supplier?
For comparison, in the US, rear door glass for a 2022 Lexus GX 460 MSRP $999. and available on line discounted to $656. Yes, Gren parts are ridiculous but probably in line with Mercedes and BMW.
 

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For comparison, in the US, rear door glass for a 2022 Lexus GX 460 MSRP $999. and available on line discounted to $656. Yes, Gren parts are ridiculous but probably in line with Mercedes and BMW.
$999 for a GX makes the $1,431USD (just converting the $2196AUD) seem pretty reasonable actually, considering the sheer production differences
 

ericge

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For comparison, in the US, rear door glass for a 2022 Lexus GX 460 MSRP $999. and available on line discounted to $656. Yes, Gren parts are ridiculous but probably in line with Mercedes and BMW.
Tell me, is the rear door glass on the Lexus equivalent to the simple, flat glass in the Grenadier? If a local shop can manufacture the part for $140, selling it for 15 time as much suggests something is wrong...
 

ericge

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I'm going to start quoting in $aud just to scare the crap out of people.
We live with Aussie dollars. If we could be paid in, say, Euros but spend in Aussie dollars, life would be much easier!
 

ericge

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Now I have a problem.

rear screen detail.jpg


I have to make template for the rear window I am getting made locally, and that means making three holes in exactly the right place. The hose for the wiper/washer - OK. The main spindle for the wiper arm - OK
But what is the other one which looks like a spindle from the motor. There is no obvious way to open it - no flats for a wrench, nothing. Just a smooth domed end. I don't want to just pull it - there must be a proper way...?

Once the measurements are fixed accurately, I have to deal with the two electrical wires. Any idea what they are - are they both for the window heater/demister? If so, can I just disconnect and put a dollop of mastic in the end of each?

Your help would be greatly appreciated...
 

ericge

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Now I have a problem.

View attachment 7849016


I have to make template for the rear window I am getting made locally, and that means making three holes in exactly the right place. The hose for the wiper/washer - OK. The main spindle for the wiper arm - OK
But what is the other one which looks like a spindle from the motor. There is no obvious way to open it - no flats for a wrench, nothing. Just a smooth domed end. I don't want to just pull it - there must be a proper way...?

Once the measurements are fixed accurately, I have to deal with the two electrical wires. Any idea what they are - are they both for the window heater/demister? If so, can I just disconnect and put a dollop of mastic in the end of each?

Your help would be greatly appreciated...

OK - a busy time under the house trying to get measurements as accurate as possible for a template of the glass. Fortunately, there is a certain amount of slack available - so that's good. The button-type thing I marked in the pic is actually a high quality push-on cap. It has a conventional retaining nut behind it. We have just had local council elections so there are a lot of discarded plastic posters around - I am chopping up a friend (successful!) to make the template. I will carry it into the Cairns workshop next Wednesday. I hope some-one replies about the electrics before then...
 

Clark Kent

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Now I have a problem.

View attachment 7849016


I have to make template for the rear window I am getting made locally, and that means making three holes in exactly the right place. The hose for the wiper/washer - OK. The main spindle for the wiper arm - OK
But what is the other one which looks like a spindle from the motor. There is no obvious way to open it - no flats for a wrench, nothing. Just a smooth domed end. I don't want to just pull it - there must be a proper way...?

Once the measurements are fixed accurately, I have to deal with the two electrical wires. Any idea what they are - are they both for the window heater/demister? If so, can I just disconnect and put a dollop of mastic in the end of each?

Your help would be greatly appreciated...
Hi @ericge
I think those wires are the remains of the connectors and pads for the demist (defog) element attached to the glass, well not anymore 😬
If you isolate those wires so they cannot short out, then turn on the rear demist you should measure +12v at one or the other wires if you measure between each connector and earth. If you get 12v power with demist turned on and no power when you turn it off again you have solved it.

Fuse FI11 in the interior electrical centre (under the rear seat?) is labelled Rear Defog. If you confirm these are the defog connectors you could pull fuse FI11 out and the circuit will be isolated.
 
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ericge

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Hi @ericge
I think those wires are the remains of the connectors and pads for the demist (defog) element attached to the glass, well not anymore 😬
If you isolate those wires so they cannot short out, then turn on the rear demist you should measure +12v at one or the other wires if you measure between each connector and earth. If you get 12v power with demist turned on and no power when you turn it off again you have solved it.

Fuse FI11 in the interior electrical centre (under the rear seat?) is labelled Rear Defog. If you confirm these are the defog connectors you could pull fuse FI11 out and the circuit will be isolated.
 

ericge

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Thanks for the advice, Clark Kent. Especially because I'm not good with electrics! I have the template nearly done and accurate; I plan to deliver it to the shop next Wednesday. As well as the template, I will prepare a .jpg with all the measurements on it - anyone who needs it is welcome.
 
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