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Side steps versus Rock sliders

AnD3rew

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I have seen where the jack is housed inside the rear of the IG. Has anyone sees 1) where the jack's arm is put away indie the car and 2) where the jack is fitted underneath the IG in order to raise the car?
I asked about the handle and tools, I believe there will be a tool roll that sits in the area between the Jack and the outer panel. Don’t know about the jacking points
 

DCPU

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Those ARB hydraulic jacks are nice bits of kit. But at £870 in the U.K. I won’t be getting one any time soon. Just hope I don’t have to jack the vehicle up too many times. Old Hi-lift jack for me !
I don't think the rock sliders are ideal for jacking with a hilift. They seem too flush with the bodywork. There's always a degree of wobble in the foot of a hilift where the baseplate meets the lifting beam and once a wheel is lifted it's easy for it to move a little off vertical and lean in. It looks too easy to damage a door, the margins just don't seem to be there.

hi-lift-jack-lift-mate-on-trail.height-900.jpg
 

Logsplitter

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I don't think the rock sliders are ideal for jacking with a hilift. They seem too flush with the bodywork. There's always a degree of wobble in the foot of a hilift where the baseplate meets the lifting beam and once a wheel is lifted it's easy for it to move a little off vertical and lean in. It looks too easy to damage a door, the margins just don't seem to be there.

View attachment 7796523
This is the method I use to change a tyre when not perfect conditions for the bottle jack. Lift up by the wheel. Chock the axle then lower the jack .Change wheel then then jack up again to remove chocks or axle stand. 👍
 

globalgregors

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I asked about the handle and tools, I believe there will be a tool roll that sits in the area between the Jack and the outer panel. Don’t know about the jacking points
Being a solid axle vehicle, presumably under the axle for tyre changes…
 

globalgregors

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I don't think the rock sliders are ideal for jacking with a hilift. They seem too flush with the bodywork. There's always a degree of wobble in the foot of a hilift where the baseplate meets the lifting beam and once a wheel is lifted it's easy for it to move a little off vertical and lean in. It looks too easy to damage a door, the margins just don't seem to be there.

View attachment 7796523
This is clearly one of the downsides of a conventional farm jack. Normally the door panel arcs away from jack when lifting however, as you say, if the base plate slides or the wheels are inadequately chocked all bets are off.
 

grenadierboy

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Excellent video Tazzieman because he has so many great tips on how to solve outback travelling problems - changing wheels, jacking up cars, etc.

Also, "catching a croc" @ 43.30 is not for the faint hearted

Having said that - I'm not too sure how many people would travel as basically as he did back in the day!
 

Tazzieman

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Having said that - I'm not too sure how many people would travel as basically as he did back in the day!
When I was a boy I spent small amounts of money to enjoy living like a homeless person.
Nowadays it seems everyone travels 4 star - or 5 if you find a rockpool.
Talk about carrying everything - and 2 kitchen sinks!
Good for the economy.
 

bemax

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When I was a boy I spent small amounts of money to enjoy living like a homeless person.
Nowadays it seems everyone travels 4 star - or 5 if you find a rockpool.
Talk about carrying everything - and 2 kitchen sinks!
Good for the economy.
And bad for personal experience and the nature!
 

DCPU

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Apparently this is a thing now, looking at the views, 4.5million:

 

DCPU

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If you forget to pack your jack , or lose it , this is the correct way Australians get out of trouble.
Go to 5:44
I've seen a this and a variant (in a military training manual of old) where the stump is just chained to the axle itself; never seen anyone demonstrate it though. (y)

Untitled.jpg
 
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I asked about the handle and tools, I believe there will be a tool roll that sits in the area between the Jack and the outer panel. Don’t know about the jacking points
Hope this helps there were other tools in roll like screwdriver and hex/torx keys
 

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DCPU

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I asked about the handle and tools, I believe there will be a tool roll that sits in the area between the Jack and the outer panel.

On the model I looked at the tool roll was under the driver's seat (RHD) attached with a fixed loop and buckle. Not sure if it's the same seat (passenger) for LHD vehicles though?
bc33141c-be66-4095-886d-69f368b134e9.jpg
 

Tazzieman

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On the model I looked at the tool roll was under the driver's seat (RHD) attached with a fixed loop and buckle. Not sure if it's the same seat (passenger) for LHD vehicles though?
View attachment 7796589
That's where I stuff some tools in my S1 Discovery. No electric motors or heaters to get in the way of utility!
 

DCPU

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I don't think the rock sliders are ideal for jacking with a hilift. They seem too flush with the bodywork. There's always a degree of wobble in the foot of a hilift where the baseplate meets the lifting beam and once a wheel is lifted it's easy for it to move a little off vertical and lean in. It looks too easy to damage a door, the margins just don't seem to be there.
So I thought I'd check this out for myself today.

I started with just using the first concave section of the jack lip, to give maximum standoff. Note: I'd never actually use just this portion of the toe in a real jacking situation.
WP_20230512_041.jpg

It's not a perfect match for the section of the rock slider tube, but it does work:
WP_20230512_043.jpg

But I was pleasantly surprised at the standoff this gave:
WP_20230512_047.jpg

There's certainly plenty of room to get more of the toe under the slider:
WP_20230512_044.jpg

I then moved to the second "step" in the toe and measured the standoff at the utility belt:
WP_20230512_061.jpg

Which then made me think that a packing piece of wood/plastic/rubber attached to the utility belt would be an ideal way to ensure any jack mishap would not cause a costly scratch/dent/hole in the door. The section could be kept separately and just attached in seconds at whatever corner needed lifting:
WP_20230512_053.jpg


As an aside, I can confirm that the anti tilt element of the alarm works well, setting the alarm off before all the travel in the suspension had been taken up.
 
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