Please send me your old ZF transmission pan and filter

[Dokatd]

Gotcha, for flat towing you most certainly need to actuate the T-case emergency actuator. But in an emergency, which is pretty much always going to be slow speed, you can just set the T-case in neutral via the shifter in the cab. It's not perfect, but it won't cause any damage. You can move the truck fast enough to get it out of the mud or water and then properly set it to neutral from underneath at that point.

This would preserve warranty and is pretty much fool proof. I would suggest you practice it a few times though to get a feel for it. Most people have trouble splitting hairs, but once you do it a time or two you won't have issue anymore.

 

[Clark Kent]

Gotcha, for flat towing you most certainly need to actuate the T-case emergency actuator. But in an emergency, which is pretty much always going to be slow speed, you can just set the T-case in neutral via the shifter in the cab. It's not perfect, but it won't cause any damage. You can move the truck fast enough to get it out of the mud or water and then properly set it to neutral from underneath at that point.

This would preserve warranty and is pretty much fool proof. I would suggest you practice it a few times though to get a feel for it. Most people have trouble splitting hairs, but once you do it a time or two you won't have issue anymore.

That's the gist.
One small correction: The goal is to set the transmission into neutral via this lever but only if you cannot access the neutral screw on the transfer case - which remains the preferred and approved method. Two separate methods. If you cannot access the transfer case neutral screw due to environmental then getting your hand onto the parking pawl lever is probably a no-go as well, hence the remote kit.

We're a fair way down the "it's-5pm-and-today-has-really-gone-to-$hit" list if you actually need to do this but it might be enough to drag your vehicle out of a river before you need to phone a friend who knows something about rivers and drowned engines. No names, please.

Hey @scottg. Sorry this has taken your ZF pan thread off track. It's kinda relevant-ish.

 

[Dokatd]

That's the gist.
One small correction: The goal is to set the transmission into neutral via this lever but only if you cannot access the neutral screw on the transfer case - which remains the preferred and approved method. Two separate methods. If you cannot access the transfer case neutral screw due to environmental then getting your hand onto the parking pawl lever is probably a no-go as well, hence the remote kit.

We're a fair way down the "it's-5pm-and-today-has-really-gone-to-$hit" list if you actually need to do this but it might be enough to drag your vehicle out of a river before you need to phone a friend who knows something about rivers and drowned engines. No names, please.

Hey @scottg. Sorry this has taken your ZF pan thread off track. It's kinda relevant-ish.

But who cares about disengaging the parking pawl if you can set the T-case in neutral from the cab quickly and easily. Especially if you have to modify the truck to instal a manual parking pawl kit. The truck already achieves what you are looking for without modification.

 

[Clark Kent]

But who cares about disengaging the parking pawl if you can set the T-case in neutral from the cab quickly and easily. Especially if you have to modify the truck to instal a manual parking pawl kit. The truck already achieves what you are looking for without modification.

Are you talking about setting the transfer case shift lever at a mid point and hoping it stays there?

 

[Tazzieman]

Are you talking about setting the transfer case shift lever at a mid point and hoping it stays there?

The hope spring? They do say it stays put!

 

[Dokatd]

Are you talking about setting the transfer case shift lever at a mid point and hoping it stays there?

Yes, it stays just fine. It will not go back into gear without external input. Again this is just to keep you from swimming or becoming one with the mud. Then you properly set neutral under the truck after recovery and before high speed flat towing.

Regardless, you do not want to flat tow a Grenadier by just putting the trans in neutral.

 

[Clark Kent]

Yes, it stays just fine. It will not go back into gear without external input. Again this is just to keep you from swimming or becoming one with the mud. Then you properly set neutral under the truck after recovery and before high speed flat towing.

Regardless, you do not want to flat tow a Grenadier by just putting the trans in neutral.

Gotcha. So I've had a play in my garage. My selector is still tight. It wants HI or LO and there's no nudging it in between. A fair bit of control cable springback is still present. There is a small notch as the selectors change over but there's no positive place where I would say with confidence that the TC is deselected (neutral). I need to play with this on a slope to see if I can find a sweet spot in the selector where the vehicle will roll with the trans in Park with engine and brakes off.
If this spot is sticky and repeatable then it's a good plan B for long enough to get winched out of trouble.

 

[TD5-90]

Yes, it stays just fine. It will not go back into gear without external input.

Unfortunately, I cannot confirm this for my vehicle. The midpoint is super delicate.

 

[255/85]

I assumed the lack of a true detented neutral position in the transfer case was for simplification purposes. It's easier to explain to someone used to pushing buttons how to engage the various drive modes without a third option. Now I just think it may have been a way to reduce the size of the transfer. I'm remembering one of the early build videos where an engineering team member notes the "massiv" size of the 'case.

 

[Rok_Dr]

Gotcha. So I've had a play in my garage. My selector is still tight. It wants HI or LO and there's no nudging it in between. A fair bit of control cable springback is still present. There is a small notch as the selectors change over but there's no positive place where I would say with confidence that the TC is deselected (neutral). I need to play with this on a slope to see if I can find a sweet spot in the selector where the vehicle will roll with the trans in Park with engine and brakes off.
If this spot is sticky and repeatable then it's a good plan B for long enough to get winched out of trouble.

I look forward to hearing how you go. Success will trigger a small update in the next manual edition

Cheers
Steve

 

[Greasemonkey]

AGA Tools offers an interesting tool for putting a ZF 8HP transmission into neutral.

In my opinion, however, this tool is primarily suitable for workshops that intend to use it temporarily. It's unsuitable for situations where you can't access the underside of the vehicle, but the video explains the different lever variations very well and also shows how far the lever needs to be moved to put the transmission into neutral.

View: https://youtu.be/oTy6lD_H2wg?si=4BS-AyrP3oO5TNhO

 

[Greasemonkey]

Another option is offered by the company HPR. This version can remain permanently on the vehicle. What I don't like about this option is that the standard lever has to be shortened to create a square drive onto which the new HPR lever can be mounted. Overall, however, the solution isn't bad. I can also imagine a DIY solution where I would replace every HPR component with readily available parts. The trick with a DIY solution would be to redirect the force on the lever in such a way that shortening the lever isn't necessary. I have two solutions in mind, but I need to test them first. The total cost is just under €50.

View: https://youtu.be/XbRm7VS6N3A?si=KNhs9RKgFww12pb1

 

[Blackwolf]

Has anyone yet established exactly how the H/L selector in the transfer box is designed and what the neutral screw really does?

I am fairly confident that the screw simply locks the selector in position after the ghost neutral has been selected by means of the knob in the cab.

It's a little disappointing that the online manuals show nothing of the transfer box internals and the only transfer boxes I've seen for sale so far have been attached to the main auto box still and prohibitively expensive for buying just to dismantle to establish how it works.

 

[TD5-90]

Has anyone yet established exactly how the H/L selector in the transfer box is designed and what the neutral screw really does?

I am fairly confident that the screw simply locks the selector in position after the ghost neutral has been selected by means of the knob in the cab.

It's a little disappointing that the online manuals show nothing of the transfer box internals and the only transfer boxes I've seen for sale so far have been attached to the main auto box still and prohibitively expensive for buying just to dismantle to establish how it works.

This might help a bit...

 

[Dokatd]

Gotcha. So I've had a play in my garage. My selector is still tight. It wants HI or LO and there's no nudging it in between. A fair bit of control cable springback is still present. There is a small notch as the selectors change over but there's no positive place where I would say with confidence that the TC is deselected (neutral). I need to play with this on a slope to see if I can find a sweet spot in the selector where the vehicle will roll with the trans in Park with engine and brakes off.
If this spot is sticky and repeatable then it's a good plan B for long enough to get winched out of trouble.

For those trying this, you won't really feel it in the stick. But it's there. I have done this on at least 4-5 Grenadiers to date to roll them in my shop. I can reliably hit it pretty easily now. You will hear a light chatter due to the seeming impossibility of getting the lever just perfect.

 

[Texas Grenadier]

Guys it’s simple, all you have to do is maneuver, your high low gear into a neutral position to where it’s almost in gear so that you are in neutral. No hacking involved. @Dokatd and I have done this on numerous occasions at his shop before we raise the lift. One occasion I remember distinctively is when we change the front driveshaft and needed to articulate the front wheels to turn the shaft.

 

[Dokatd]

Just FYI, this little guy on the left side of the transmission will mechanically unlock the parking pawl on the transmission. Pull the lever down toward the ground. I have done this with no ill affect so far.

 

[Clark Kent]

View attachment 7917342

Just FYI, this little guy on the left side of the transmission will mechanically unlock the parking pawl on the transmission. Pull the lever down toward the ground. I have done this with no ill affect so far.

Yes. That lever was the subject of the several posts and pics above, plus the option of a remote cable kit to pull that same lever.
Did the lever stay down when you pulled it so you need to manually reset it to re-engage park, or does it reset automatically when power is next applied?

 

[Dokatd]

Yes. That lever was the subject of the several posts and pics above, plus the option of a remote cable kit to pull that same lever.
Did the lever stay down when you pulled it so you need to manually reset it to re-engage park, or does it reset automatically when power is next applied?

It has a fairly positive amount of spring tension. It will instantly pop back into park when you let pressure off.

It's certainly a great option for service work as is, but the T-case neutral position is more functional as it disengages more of the drive train.

But if you are stuck in park at the mall you could hang a 5lb weight by a wire from this lever and move the truck. That assumes you're not stuck due to an issue farther down the drive line.

 

[Greasemonkey]

I tried pulling the lever down several times today. It only goes down about 10 mm. As soon as you release it, it springs back to its original position. I'm going to try running a Bowden cable with a T-handle forward into the engine compartment. This cable needs to be lockable, otherwise it won't be possible to move the car.