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Plastic trays over electrical bit under second row seat

C

cdsvt

Local time
11:06 PM
Joined
Nov 10, 2022
Messages
24
Location
Vermont, USA
I just picked up my '24 Grenadier (new old stock Trialmaster) on Friday and am still orienting to it.

I'm trying to understand whether my particular vehicle is set up with the wiring for the Nato plug, and thinking through how I add my compressor, trailer brake wiring, brake controller, additional rear Hella/DIN charging socket for the fridge, etc.

I can see that I don't have a Nato plug in the bumper area, but am hoping I might luck out and have the rest of the stuff, since I do have the high load auxiliary switch panel and 2nd battery. Some posts here suggest that means I should have the Nato wiring... We have an Off Road Camper that has a Andersen connectors of battery charging, so I thought this would be a good use for that circuit.

I am cursing the people who designed the plastic covers over the batteries and fuseboxes under the second row seat frame.

How on earth would anyone deal with electrical issues on the roadside when the starting battery and key fuses are buried under difficult to remove plastic parts?

I've managed to remove the panels under the front of the seat, remove the T50 bolts, snip the zip ties, unclip the passenger side panel from the metal seat frame...

And now I can't figure out how to remove the rear plastic tray panels now that they're loose. The metal seat frame doesn't seem to allow me to remove them.

Any tips or tricks? Do need to completely unbolt the seat bottom frames?

I didn't find anything in a search of the site.
 
The plastic panels exist to channel potential water from the cargo area down the sides to the rear passenger floor instead of pouring over everything; with the caveat of leaving the fuse block easily accessible.

If you have the high amp switch panel/second battery I believe you should have the NATO plug on the back. The relay can be found behind the passenger side rear cargo panel. You would want to modify the wiring to charge a trailer while driving because as fitted from the factory the NATO receptacle is turned off above 50km/h.

Popping the forward covers off is quite easy with the T20s and four nuts along the floor; then come the large T50s for the rear plastic panels. Do yourself a favor and replace them with the screw kit from Agile (or leave them off). Once all the bolts are removed the plastic will pull forward.
 
Ok
cdsvt said:
I just picked up my '24 Grenadier (new old stock Trialmaster) on Friday and am still orienting to it.

I'm trying to understand whether my particular vehicle is set up with the wiring for the Nato plug, and thinking through how I add my compressor, trailer brake wiring, brake controller, additional rear Hella/DIN charging socket for the fridge, etc.

I can see that I don't have a Nato plug in the bumper area, but am hoping I might luck out and have the rest of the stuff, since I do have the high load auxiliary switch panel and 2nd battery. Some posts here suggest that means I should have the Nato wiring... We have an Off Road Camper that has a Andersen connectors of battery charging, so I thought this would be a good use for that circuit.

I am cursing the people who designed the plastic covers over the batteries and fuseboxes under the second row seat frame.

How on earth would anyone deal with electrical issues on the roadside when the starting battery and key fuses are buried under difficult to remove plastic parts?

I've managed to remove the panels under the front of the seat, remove the T50 bolts, snip the zip ties, unclip the passenger side panel from the metal seat frame...

And now I can't figure out how to remove the rear plastic tray panels now that they're loose. The metal seat frame doesn't seem to allow me to remove them.

Any tips or tricks? Do need to completely unbolt the seat bottom frames?

I didn't find anything in a search of the site.
Click to expand...

Yes and no. Two options

Yes.....if you want to remove the plastics you will need to remove all those Torx bolts.

No...... I just took a Stanley knife to the plastics and cut most of it away. The plastics are surprisingly soft and easy to cut.
.
 
Thank you.

I have all of the bolts out, maybe I just need to try again.

I'd really prefer to not cut the plastic panels up (but I may not reinstall all of them).
 
Last edited:
cdsvt said:
I have all of the bolts out, maybe I just need to try again.

I'd really prefer to not cut the plastic panels up (but I may not reinstall all of them).
Click to expand...
Look up th eAgile Offroad instructions on installing the ARB under seat compressor. It shows how to get the plastic panels out. You need to pull the batteries. :-(
 
Last edited:
I got both out, the us passenger side required uncomfortable levels of plastic bending. I wouldn't want to try this in cool weather. I didn't remove either battery.

IMG_0860.jpeg


Seriously poor design. I'd hate to do that on trail. These panels are staying out for the foreseeable future.

Maybe I'm too much of a fan, but Toyota would never design something like this. 10 demerits to Ineos.
 
cdsvt said:
I'd hate to do that on trail.
Click to expand...
There's nothing critical that's under the covers though; thus why the fuse box is exposed. All the large connections that are fused with ZCASE fuses are effectively convenience features
 
I didn't miss the comment above about needing to change the default behavior of the Nato circuit for trailer charging. I think this thread gives me what I need to make it switchable from the panel, and not shut off at speed (but will continue researching).

Tom D

Thread 'Re-wiring NATO Socket to INT2'

So I did this today.
I had asked Lynn Calder about altering the software but if that happens it will be a while off and I need the NATO to charge my trailer battery on our upcoming trip to Montenegro. So I have wired it to INT2 instead.

Here's how.
The NATO/Winch switch goes to the BCM and then to a relay under the back seat, from that relay the signal goes to the two big relays under the bonnet and in the RHS front wheel arch.
I had hoped to grab the signal from INT2 at the fuse which is also under the back seat but unfortunately the fuse is before the switch and so is permanently live...
  • Like
 
cdsvt said:
I just picked up my '24 Grenadier (new old stock Trialmaster) on Friday and am still orienting to it.

I'm trying to understand whether my particular vehicle is set up with the wiring for the Nato plug, and thinking through how I add my compressor, trailer brake wiring, brake controller, additional rear Hella/DIN charging socket for the fridge, etc.

I can see that I don't have a Nato plug in the bumper area, but am hoping I might luck out and have the rest of the stuff, since I do have the high load auxiliary switch panel and 2nd battery. Some posts here suggest that means I should have the Nato wiring... We have an Off Road Camper that has a Andersen connectors of battery charging, so I thought this would be a good use for that circuit.

I am cursing the people who designed the plastic covers over the batteries and fuseboxes under the second row seat frame.

How on earth would anyone deal with electrical issues on the roadside when the starting battery and key fuses are buried under difficult to remove plastic parts?

I've managed to remove the panels under the front of the seat, remove the T50 bolts, snip the zip ties, unclip the passenger side panel from the metal seat frame...

And now I can't figure out how to remove the rear plastic tray panels now that they're loose. The metal seat frame doesn't seem to allow me to remove them.

Any tips or tricks? Do need to completely unbolt the seat bottom frames?

I didn't find anything in a search of the site.
Click to expand...
Some useful links over here as well:

Links for new owners and also various Installation Guides (including those from INEOS & Rhino Rack) TheDocAUS

Links for new owners and also various Installation Guides (including those from INEOS & Rhino Rack)

Helpful links for new owners
 
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