Heater output

[Skydance]

I don't think the heater circuit opens up fully till the engine temperature is up to operating temperature. If you have the temperature display on I can see it takes a good 8 miles to get the full operating temperature, mine is diesel,. After that my heater goes from the initial cold, then warm air to fully functioning at 8 miles. It remains fully functioning until the engine cools. That means overnight, as the engine retains heat for short stops.

Even thats a bit crazy. I get fully functioning heat from a cold engine in around 8 minutes not 8 miles. Pretty quick to warm up, mine. It’s just frustrating that it sometimes whistles when the actuators aren’t fully closed between face and feet.

 

[Eric]

Even thats a bit crazy. I get fully functioning heat from a cold engine in around 8 minutes not 8 miles. Pretty quick to warm up, mine. It’s just frustrating that it sometimes whistles when the actuators aren’t fully closed between face and feet.

at 60 mph 8 minutes = 8 miles.

 

[mirwantandyo]

My car is at the agent to sort a few issues. It’s been there for ten days now and from a phone call this afternoon, they think they have found the root cause.

Long story short, one of the symptoms I have had is a poorly functioning heater. All the coolant fluid levels are normal (both cooling systems) and has never needed additional top ups. However, on investigation, despite the normal fluid levels and normal engine temperature readings, they have noticed cold spots on the radiator. It appears I have an air-lock somewhere, and have likely had it since new (now on 8,500 miles).

By coincidence, a technical bulletin has apparently been released today by INEOS with this exact issue. It seems many cars are being delivered with an airlock in the cooling system. (They are vacuum filled at the factory and not bled for air afterwards.) Although this is not causing the engine to overheat, or worse, it is leading to the symptoms many of us have experienced with the poor heater. The bulletin outlines a complex automated procedure the dealers need to follow to properly bleed the system. It involves holding down the accelerator pedal, then the brake pedal with the ignition on, the releasing both and starting the car whilst holding the brake pedal. This then starts an automated procedure in the ECU to run through a bleed cycle and takes circa 11 minutes. (Sorry - can’t be more specific as I have not seen the bulletin, just a very helpful explanation by my dealer.)

If you are having the issues with the heater not working, it may be worth a call to your dethe aler to get this checked out.

They are going to try and bleed mine tomorrow, as it needs to be carried out on a cold engine for the procedure to kick in.

Thanks a lot for the guidance on to remove the air lock.
Below are the steps needed:

Ignition on > Fan lowest and Temperature maximum

It involves holding down the accelerator pedal, then the brake pedal with the ignition on, then releasing both and starting the car whilst holding the brake pedal.

HUD "SERVICE STARTED"

This then starts an automated procedure in the ECU to run through a bleed cycle and takes circa 11 minutes.

HUD "SERVICE ENDED"

Turn off the engine

 

[Gary B]

Thanks a lot for the guidance on to remove the air lock.
Below are the steps needed:

Ignition on > Fan lowest and Temperature maximum

It involves holding down the accelerator pedal, then the brake pedal with the ignition on, then releasing both and starting the car whilst holding the brake pedal.

HUD "SERVICE STARTED"

This then starts an automated procedure in the ECU to run through a bleed cycle and takes circa 11 minutes.

HUD "SERVICE ENDED"

Turn off the engine

I just topped up my hot water tank and ran the car with the heater on max and the fan on 1 for 15 mins all is well.
will keep the above in mind if i ever have heater issues again.