The Grenadier Forum

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Front Drive Shaft Update

So that's why non-lifted Grennys are ok, but when you use the more frequently off-road the higher CV angle due to off-roading causes more wear. Makes sense. Just wish there was a way to fix this without having to deal with the vibrations of a propshaft like the one Agile has. This vehicle is meant to be used off-road, not a pavement queen.
Off-roading is not the only cause for stock Grennys to fail. If you tow a heavy load, drive over big whoops on the highway on a daily basis or hit speed bumps etc faster than most. Anything that causes you to reach the extent of the suspensions travel even momentarily will lead to failure. It's cumulative damage that eventually gets you.
 
So that's why non-lifted Grennys are ok, but when you use the more frequently off-road the higher CV angle due to off-roading causes more wear. Makes sense. Just wish there was a way to fix this without having to deal with the vibrations of a propshaft like the one Agile has. This vehicle is meant to be used off-road, not a pavement queen.
Mine isn’t lifted and the boot tear was discovered at 34k miles.
 
I have OEM boots and Terra boots. I have cut cross sections of both. They all fail the same way. They thin out at the pinch, show evidence of light surface on surface friction and of course a tear/crack. The thinned out area directly correlates to how far in or out the boots collar is placed on the shaft.

The evidence I have collected is not up for debate as far as I am concerned. We can all have opinions, but I have hard evidence over many joints to prove my theory out. If you want to fix the problem today without voiding warranty then you need to install limit straps that reduce overall travel of the front end by maybe 1-2". I bet you can get over 100k mi with that setup. But you're neutering the truck at that point.
So the “pinch” in your opinion is just a fold that increases friction on the interior surface?
 
So the “pinch” in your opinion is just a fold that increases friction on the interior surface?
More or less. The bellows doubles over and squishes just a bit. Just enough to cause the boot to heat up and eventually "extrude" itself. The area extruded gets super thin and finally can't hold up to the centrifugal forces.
 
More or less. The bellows doubles over and squishes just a bit. Just enough to cause the boot to heat up and eventually "extrude" itself. The area extruded gets super thin and finally can't hold up to the centrifugal forces.
You mean up on the top side or where, exactly? I haven’t been able to get my hands on mine - stopped by the dealer yesterday to get a bunch of fly fishing stuff out of the back but it was pretty torn up because they’re dealing with a few issues. Hopefully I can get a look at it this week if they get all the parts in and if Ineos can give them some clear guidance.
 
My contact a Ineos has gone silent on me after saying that engineering was looking into the problem. I’m going to give him another week to reply and then I’m posting the screenshots of our discussion.

It will be interesting for everyone to see that top management is completely unaware of the driveshaft issue
 
You mean up on the top side or where, exactly? I haven’t been able to get my hands on mine - stopped by the dealer yesterday to get a bunch of fly fishing stuff out of the back but it was pretty torn up because they’re dealing with a few issues. Hopefully I can get a look at it this week if they get all the parts in and if Ineos can give them some clear

Here are some detailed pics I posted prior. Notice where the boot is split. That area on a new boot is a uniform thickness. The pinching works it down until it's paper thin. Also not the picture showing two areas of wear. The section marked A should be uniformly shiny. The dull section has been abraded by pinching also. Hopefully this gives some clear insight.


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Here are some detailed pics I posted prior. Notice where the boot is split. That area on a new boot is a uniform thickness. The pinching works it down until it's paper thin. Also not the picture showing two areas of wear. The section marked A should be uniformly shiny. The dull section has been abraded by pinching also. Hopefully this gives some clear insight.


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Fantastic - thanks
 
I like more suspension travel when off roading..... Seems like current solutions would be restricting this to a low rider street truck. ;)
 
I like more suspension travel when off roading..... Seems like current solutions would be restricting this to a low rider street truck. ;)
I have a feeling this vehicle was designed for what the British call "Green laning" (driving on unpaved farm roads and pastures) but not serious off-roading
 
I have a feeling this vehicle was designed for what the British call "Green laning" (driving on unpaved farm roads and pastures) but not serious off-roading
Not sure what you mean by serious but solid axel designs from my understanding is about as serious as one would want from a production vehicle. I by no mean think this thing is a rock crawler but limiting a factor suspension travel feels like I'd be cutting springs and dropping it to match the S10.
 
This is what I really meant, I just didn’t know they actually existed. Sort of a 1:1 portal for the front t-case output.

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Would be awkward at best in the Grenadier. Plus loud and likely come with serious reliability issues.

However, after looking at the T-case etc it is feasible to fit say an atlas T-case and clock it down some. You will need to make up for the lost clearance by redesigning the crossmember and T-case mount. Doable for sure and comes with lots of extra benefits. But kind of extreme at the moment.
 
Interesting. Additional lubrication would suggest they have zerk fittings installed?

I don't know whether the stub shafts are gun drilled and lubed from the end or via some other zirc. They sell a needle grease tip for lubrication so it may be that it's just slipped under the boot occasionally and given a few squirts. I'm not into rock crawling so I've never seen a pair of these.
 
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