Front Drive Shaft Update

[Clark Kent]

I'm curious to know what the official Ineos tightening torque is

• Propshaft bolts are listed as single-use. Propshaft Fixing Kit PN GRA-5D00-019750.
• Removal of the front propshaft calls for remove for access of the transfer case crossmember.
• Each bolt is torqued to 25Nm then turned through (thru!) a further 40 degrees to achieve the final torque.
• No mention of the tabs that are installed under adjacent bolt pairs as shown in the screenshot.
• No callout for a tightening sequence.

Remove

1. Install a Brake Pedal Depressor. Refer To: Brake Pedal Depressor (Remove for Access and Install)
2. Remove the Transfer Box Crossmember. Refer To: Transfer Box Crossmember (Remove for Access and Install)
3. WARNING: Powered Tools should not be used during this procedure. Failure to adhere to this warning could cause damage to tools and components.
4. Remove the eight bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Transfer Box.
5. Remove the eight bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Pinion Flange.
6. WARNING: The Propshaft is large and heavy. The aid of another technician is necessary for this step to make sure that the Propshaft does not fall. If you do not, this can cause serious injury and/or damage to the vehicle and equipment.
7. Remove the Propshaft.

Install

1. WARNING: The Propshaft is large and heavy. The aid of another technician is necessary for this step to make sure that the Propshaft does not fall. If you do not, this can cause serious injury and/or damage to the vehicle and equipment.
2. CAUTION: Make sure that you install the Propshaft in the position shown. If you do not, damage to components can occur (see screenshot).
3. Move the Propshaft into position.
4. Install and torque the eight new bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Pinion Flange to 25 Nm.
5. Torque the eight bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Pinion Flange thru 40 Degrees more.
6. Install and torque the eight new bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Transfer Box to 25 Nm.
7. Torque the eight bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Transfer Box thru 40 Degrees more.
8. Install the Transfer Box Crossmember. Refer To: Transfer Box Crossmember (Remove for Access and Install)
9. Remove the Brake Pedal Depressor. Refer To: Brake Pedal Depressor (Remove for Access and Install)

"The position shown"

 

[terdrocket]

That is crazy. It says to remove the crossmember.

 

[Clark Kent]

That is crazy. It says to remove the crossmember.

That does seem unnecessary. No one who has done the job mentioned they had to drop the crossmember. But if this procedure was written prior to deliveries starting then it might not have been validated in the workshop and no one has bothered to report back to get it updated since.

 

[Shoogs]

That does seem unnecessary. No one who has done the job mentioned they had to drop the crossmember. But if this procedure was written prior to deliveries starting then it might not have been validated in the workshop and no one has bothered to report back to get it updated since.

Without a hoist I just put vehicle on jack stands and in neutral so I can rotate the driveshaft to access the bolts especially on transfer side, otherwise it’s very tedious. Right tools no need to remove crossmember.

And driveshaft not that heavy… but the world we now live in…

 

[Tazzieman]

I’m pretty sure I have roto-flex coupling LR used on late 90’s D1’s and RRC’s. It’s held up fine on my LWB w/EAS.

Easy and cheap to replace as well!

 

[Tazzieman]

"The propshaft is large and heavy."
I 'spose it is, if you're a child or a hobbit.

 

[255/85]

I still say the snap ring is undersized and the groove too shallow. Changing those dimensions won't solve the boot issue though.

 

[Dokatd]

I still say the snap ring is undersized and the groove too shallow. Changing those dimensions won't solve the boot issue though.

It's the same clip as used by jeeps. The groove would be effectively the same as well.

 

[Zimm]

"The propshaft is large and heavy."
I 'spose it is, if you're a child or a hobbit.

says frodo.

 

[ORSO]

...

1. Install and torque the eight new bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Pinion Flange to 25 Nm.
2. Torque the eight bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Pinion Flange thru 40 Degrees more.
3. Install and torque the eight new bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Transfer Box to 25 Nm.
4. Torque the eight bolts that attach the Propshaft to the Transfer Box thru 40 Degrees more.
5. ....

So far, I've tightened the screws to 40 Nm, as recommended by the Teraflex instructions.
I'm not familiar with that kind of torque-plus-angle tightening... it seems less precise than just torque, but maybe I'm wrong.

 

[terdrocket]

I just tightened mine until my elbow popped .

 

[Texas Grenadier]

I watched the video, and it seems to be exactly my experience, except that the new joint in the video was installed with a hammer, while in my case, the Teraflex joint had no friction whatsoever. I repeat, this places the entire load of the propshaft movement on the C-clip, which isn't designed for such stress, inevitably leading to failure. I've currently purchased a new front driveshaft from Ineos, which I'll install as soon as it arrives. When the boot breaks again (which I assume will unfortunately happen), I'll replace just the boot with the Teraflex one, while keeping the original joint.

Just an FYI, when @Dokatd and I replaced my OEM Joint, the OEM slid right off as well. Not disagreeing with the fact that it puts extra unwanted stress on the c clip, just my observation.

 

[HeavyFoot]

Just an FYI, when @Dokatd and I replaced my OEM Joint, the OEM slid right off as well. Not disagreeing with the fact that it puts extra unwanted stress on the c clip, just my observation.

How long did it take to replace the joint the first time? Then the subsequent times are faster right?

 

[255/85]

It's the same clip as used by jeeps. The groove would be effectively the same as well.

I get that but Jeeps have issues too if the info in this thread is accurate. The difference is that the Grenadier driveshaft is always spinning and under load. Always.

The snap ring that holds a stub axle in place inside the spindle of an old school Dana 44 front end is probably bigger than the Ineos one. Number 65 in this image for those unfamiliar:

https://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/app/webroot/img/Image/D44GMFront.jpg

I realize they're doing slightly different jobs. I'm just saying that sometimes size matters. Without redesigning how the transfer box sits in the chassis and rotating the differential pinion upward (if it will oil correctly) what else can be done? Toyota IFS owners almost consider it standard maintenance to replace axle shaft CV boots on a regular basis. I can tolerate that level of owner responsibility but the propshaft coming free without hundreds of miles of audible complaining puts me on edge.

 

[Tazzieman]

So far, I've tightened the screws to 40 Nm, as recommended by the Teraflex instructions.
I'm not familiar with that kind of torque-plus-angle tightening... it seems less precise than just torque, but maybe I'm wrong.

For a quick AI overview google "torque plus angle"
For a deeper dive:
Torque plus angle

 

[Tazzieman]

says frodo.

Frodo is weak. Whereas Golum is lean, mean , strong and flexible. Doesn't bother to cook fish. A proper Bear Grylls
He wouldn't need a drop down step either.

 

[Texas Grenadier]

Just an FYI, when @Dokatd and I replaced my OEM Joint, the OEM slid right off as well. Not disagreeing with the fact that it puts extra unwanted stress on the c clip, just my observation.

How long did it take to replace the joint the first time? Then the subsequent times are faster right?

We were bullshitting and it took us 1.5 hrs. probably could've in just under an hour. First time may take longer because you have to remove the back cover of the joint to get to the C Clip. Thereafter, i'm guessing 45 minutes. Hardest part is greasing the bearings and breaking the shaft loose on both sides to pop out.

 

[Dokatd]

We were bullshitting and it took us 1.5 hrs. probably could've in just under an hour. First time may take longer because you have to remove the back cover of the joint to get to the C Clip. Thereafter, i'm guessing 45 minutes. Hardest part is greasing the bearings and breaking the shaft loose on both sides to pop out.

My last one took under 20min. Thats on my two post lift and impact tools. Putting on lift slows you down a bit and power tools slows you up a bit. Probably a wash. If you had a spare shaft you're looking at 10-15min. Greasing the joint takes a moment.