Front Drive Shaft - Replacement Cost?

[GN4HIR]

I had a front drive shaft replaced earlier this year under warranty. If that claim had been denied, what is the cost of the front drive shaft assembly from the dealer/Ineos?

Ideally, I would have rebuilt my original as a spare but Ineos wanted it back.

 

[MartinK]

There's a couple of used ones for sale in UK around £200 each
Part # seems to be EI-0000019755
The aftermarket ones (i.e. Agile but I am sure there are others), seem north of £1k...

 

[bamanuke]

I had a front drive shaft replaced earlier this year under warranty. If that claim had been denied, what is the cost of the front drive shaft assembly from the dealer/Ineos?

Ideally, I would have rebuilt my original as a spare but Ineos wanted it back.

mine was right at $1100.00 from Regal. That was the spring of "24.

 

[ORSO]

€ 1.300 with 2 bolt kit.

Item: GRA-5D01-053980 + GRA-5D00-019750.

 

[GN4HIR]

Thanks, exactly the information I wanted.

 

[outono]

Confirming cost is $1,350 USD from Sierra Ineos. They wanted another $700 for install labor, which I opted out of.

 

[Mountain4x4]

They claim 3hrs labor which is ridiculous.

 

[pmatusov]

Just paid $1002 at Mossy Ineos in San Diego.

 

[Mountain4x4]

For 30 min or less of work

 

[Tom109]

Can we get aftermarket CV shafts anywhere?

 

[Mountain4x4]

Agile off road

 

[Tom109]

Agile off road

???
I only see their HD DC/U-joint shaft.

 

[Mountain4x4]

Its on the site, you have to fill out a form and talk to them due to vibrations under de-acceleration around 70MPH. Or just call them

 

[Mountain4x4]

Sorry no CV shafts as they will simply fail again.

 

[Tom109]

Sorry no CV shafts as they will simply fail again.

Yes, but if equivalent to the Ineos shaft at half the cost, I’d keep a spare to swap as preventative maintenance.

 

[pmatusov]

For 30 min or less of work

I have to say that it took me two hours to swap the driveshaft. I'll elaborate on details later - but some time ago, when I took my truck to the dealer for weeping pinion and transfer case seals, they mentioned that the front driveshaft was a bear to remove.
Today I saw the telltale tool/hammer marks on the rear CV joint case - IF that happens (which I assume will happen to 100% of people with salt on the road in winter), keep in mind that you have to be very, very crafty to avoid removing the crossmember.

 

[ORSO]

The first time I removed it, it happened to me too: the flange on the transfer case side was practically glued together and wouldn't come off. But definitely don't hammer it. Once the flange on the differential side is back on, put it in the car, start the engine, and give it a light burst of gas; you'll see it loosen on its own.

 

[pmatusov]

The first time I removed it, it happened to me too: the flange on the transfer case side was practically glued together and wouldn't come off. But definitely don't hammer it. Once the flange on the differential side is back on, put it in the car, start the engine, and give it a light burst of gas; you'll see it loosen on its own.

That's exactly how I did it (in low range, center diff unlocked, chokes under three wheels). The t-case end would spin inside the t-case flange, but it still wouldn't come out. Used a ratchet strap hooking to the "neck" of the driveshaft in the rear and the front diff flange, and gave the front wheel a bit of a spin for the rear CV joint to come completely out.

Coated the insides of both "yokes" with antiseize, for future enjoyment.

 

[ORSO]

Coated the insides of both "yokes" with antiseize, for future enjoyment.

Same for me. I put some copper paste