Front Drive Shaft Repair Day

[Texas Grenadier]

Today was “fix the driveshaft’s CV joint day” I have the 2.5” Eibach lift with Toyo open country RT Trail 35’s. I got about 5,000 miles after the lift on the OEM CV joint. Replaced with the direct factory replacement CV joint kit TeraFlex Rzeppa. I attribute the final straw for the boot to tear on my to trip to Austin dropping our boy off at college and back in 24hrs. 85 mph and 99 degrees. Just under 400 miles round trip. I have 23k miles on the odometer. Lots of off roading and highway driving!! Total job took about an 1 1/2 hours - total time 2 hrs because we we bull sh@tting!!!! Special thanks to @Dokatd for the help and use of shop, lift and tools and all the guidance!!! Hook Em’!!

 

[abbeyroad]

So I'm genuinely curious. What makes you think this same OEM style joint isn't going to bust again? Based on my novice read of the situation in this forum, the front axle is by design not lift friendly whatsoever. The angles are already marginalized at factory height so you exacerbate the shaft angles, especially at the transfer case side, with any sort of lift.

In fact, some stock IGs have blown front driveshafts from just... driving. The rubber boot itself gets compromised from heat generated.

 

[Dokatd]

So I'm genuinely curious. What makes you think this same OEM style joint isn't going to bust again? Based on my novice read of the situation in this forum, the front axle is by design not lift friendly whatsoever. The angles are already marginalized at factory height so you exacerbate the shaft angles, especially at the transfer case side, with any sort of lift.

In fact, some stock IGs have blown front driveshafts from just... driving. The rubber boot itself gets compromised from heat generated.

I don't think anyone believes the new joint is going to last forever. But the rubber boot is seemingly more compliant. Regardless, what do you expect him to do, park it in the driveway and wait for Ineos to solve the problem? The replacement joint is under $200 and swaps quickly. Ineos would have sold him a new front shaft for well over $1k and a 3-4 week wait.

Taking the lift out won't necessarily make anything better either as you point out. And the Agile shaft will vibrate and eventually need joints replaced too due to excessive angle.

So what's the answer?

 

[C-Mack]

Nicely done! Curious, how well do the splines engage on the new TeraFlex joint to the shaft? Is it as tight as the OEM joint or is there any play which could create a knock or clunk over time?

Also, is the OEM and TeraFlex joints external dimensions the same such that you could use the TeraFlex rubber boot shroud and back cover plate (once you cut it off) to replace the OEM ones preemptively as a sort of upgrade before it splits open and contaminates the joint or are they different enough that’s not possible? It would be nice if it were possible to keep the OEM joint and just replace the boot and dust shield before it starts causing trouble.

 

[Tenac]

Thanks Tex, you reminded me to check mine before I go up to CO for a bit of off-roading! I also have the same setup you have for a lift and its been just over 6k and still holding. I also do a lot of highway 80mph here in AZ so you know the temps are high all summer long. I'll keep an eye on mine till she goes lol.

 

[abbeyroad]

I don't think anyone believes the new joint is going to last forever.

5K miles forever lol

I don't think it's a good idea to lift the IG period - or most 4x4 trucks for that matter - w/o a viable aftermarket d shaft solution. At least if one goes kaboom on a stock IG (blast radius), you have warranty to cover you.

I, and many others for many years and miles, have been running an aftermarket double cardan front drive shaft on my lifted '97 LC on 37s for 80K+ miles with zero noise, zero issues. I simply could not run a genuine made in Japan Toyota front drive shaft without growling at hwy speeds. The operating angle is simply too extreme.

Running a stock d shaft on a lifted IG is, imho, Russian roulette. Hope this solution works out. Time will tell. Do you.

 

[parb]

Did you cut off the back of the stock joint out of could you put it off?
It looks like you opened it up super cleanly.

 

[Dokatd]

Nicely done! Curious, how well do the splines engage on the new TeraFlex joint to the shaft? Is it as tight as the OEM joint or is there any play? Also, is the OEM and TeraFlex joints external dimensions the same such that you could use the TeraFlex rubber boot shroud and back cover plate to replace the OEM ones preemptively as a sort of upgrade before it splits open and contaminates the joint? Or are they different enough that’s not possible?

I was surprised that the stock joint slipped right off by hand. And the new joint fit the same. Mine had to be gently pressed off.

The joints are virtually identical but clearly made by different factories. The stock boot is crimped onto the base. You would have to go to work on the old boot flange to get it off. The Terra part may interchange, but I don't see the point in that really.

 

[Dokatd]

5K miles forever lol

I don't think it's a good idea to lift the IG period - or most 4x4 trucks for that matter - w/o a viable aftermarket d shaft solution. At least if one goes kaboom on a stock IG (blast radius), you have warranty to cover you.

I, and many others for many years and miles, have been running an aftermarket double cardan front drive shaft on my lifted '97 LC on 37s for 80K+ miles with zero noise, zero issues. I simply could not run a genuine made in Japan Toyota front drive shaft without growling at hwy speeds. The operating angle is simply too extreme.

Running a stock d shaft on a lifted IG is, imho, Russian roulette. Hope this solution works out. Time will tell. Do you.

I have around 8k miles on my Terra , no signs of problems. Some have way more. It may last forever or shit the bed tomorrow. Could get the same results in stock form. Regardless, the joint doesn't outright fail. There is no other damage to the truck when the joint boot gives up. So there is very little chance of a catastrophic failure. Basically zero chance unless you neglect your truck and dont listen and feel for changes. Once the boot goes the joint starts to slowly dry out and then causes a bit of a whine. It's very obvious.

A Double Cardan in place would be great but it won't work with a single cardan at the diff. Nobody wants to make a professional shaft with a D Cardan at one end and a Rezeppa at the other. Both because they can't balance that shaft and because the D Cardan is not made for the angles of the Grenadier. Not that the joint won't work but that it exceeds spec and nobody wants to put out a shaft that they will have to warranty. Plus, have you seen the carnage a failed Double Cardan does? It's pretty spectacular. A a fully failed Rzeppa joint doesn't tend to flop around as much.

 

[abbeyroad]

I have around 8k miles on my Terra , no signs of problems. Some have way more. It may last forever or shit the bed tomorrow. Could get the same results in stock form. Regardless, the joint doesn't outright fail. There is no other damage to the truck when the joint boot gives up. So there is very little chance of a catastrophic failure. Basically zero chance unless you neglect your truck and dont listen and feel for changes. Once the boot goes the joint starts to slowly dry out and then causes a bit of a whine. It's very obvious.

I merely mentioned d cardan as real life testimony of an aftermarket solution for the 80 series Land Cruiser w/ my point being IG is TBD - clearly. It's been analyzed to death in the f d shaft thread.

IIRC, I ran across a mention in this forum of a blown factory ds that wreacked havoc underneath. Sht happens when you spin the wheel.

 

[Zimm]

I don't think anyone believes the new joint is going to last forever. But the rubber boot is seemingly more compliant. Regardless, what do you expect him to do, park it in the driveway and wait for Ineos to solve the problem? The replacement joint is under $200 and swaps quickly. Ineos would have sold him a new front shaft for well over $1k and a 3-4 week wait.

Taking the lift out won't necessarily make anything better either as you point out. And the Agile shaft will vibrate and eventually need joints replaced too due to excessive angle.

So what's the answer?

Hopefully thats the only issue.