Aux Power not going to vehicle outlets when ignition is off.

[anand]

The statement on pg 34 means the DC outlets (12v), not the inverter.

As with (almost) every factory installed inverter, it requires the vehicle to be running to work. With the vehicle running there is no appreciable drop in battery State of Charge because the alternator is there to recharge, and thus allow nearly indefinite power output from the inverter.

I'm sure this could be bypassed (fairly) easily, but could put you in the spot of a main battery below 50% state of charge and thus reducing its capability (and lifespan).

 

[Zartoon]

This shouldn’t be this hard.
We need Ineos to give us a definitive answer. Has anyone reached out and confirmed that the inverters aren’t designed to be turned on by the PWR switch? I find this a bit backwards. Especially for those of us with the dual battery setup. I’d like to use the outlets to power some minor 110v things without running the engine. Why would this not be allowed, especially if you have the dual battery setup?

 

[anand]

Why would this not be allowed, especially if you have the dual battery setup?

Because the way the factory dual battery works isn't traditional. Accessories are wired to the main battery, not the aux battery. The aux battery serves two purposes: 1) to trickle (pulse is more accurate I believe) charge the main battery as it depletes. 2) to be a "jump start assist" in the event that the main battery is depleted and cannot start.

Most aftermarket dual battery systems wire everything to the aux battery, and nothing but essential vehicle functions to the main battery.

The power used by the inverter is a substantially greater amount than the SmartPass120 can handle keeping up with through the trickle/pulse charging.

I'm not saying that I feel like they did this correctly, or justifying their choices (or giving a reason for why the configurator says one thing and in reality it is different); but this is what I can gather based on what I have found of the electrical system in place.

I'd be happy to be corrected or proven wrong on all of this

 

[j3t3r]

The statement on pg 34 means the DC outlets (12v), not the inverter.

As with (almost) every factory installed inverter, it requires the vehicle to be running to work. With the vehicle running there is no appreciable drop in battery State of Charge because the alternator is there to recharge, and thus allow nearly indefinite power output from the inverter.

I'm sure this could be bypassed (fairly) easily, but could put you in the spot of a main battery below 50% state of charge and thus reducing its capability (and lifespan).

So, do you know if the system as it currently is configured will have any failsafe built in if we are pulling energy from the DC outlets? Like if I plug a DC-powered Fridge into the outlets would it drain the batteries until the engine won't start, or is there sort of failsafe that would cut the DC and over auxiliary power first ?

 

[anand]

So, do you know if the system as it currently is configured will have any failsafe built in if we are pulling energy from the DC outlets? Like if I plug a DC-powered Fridge into the outlets would it drain the batteries until the engine won't start, or is there sort of failsafe that would cut the DC and over auxiliary power first ?

I think the failsafe you are looking for is a low voltage disconnect.... I'm not sure if this logic is built into the PWR switch (to enable the outlets w/o ignition power).

Beyond that, I think the SmartPass will stop trickle charging the main battery when the aux battery reaches a low-ish state (unless required to connect both for a starting attempt); but I'd want to read through the documentation one more time before saying anything is a fact.

On the plus side, given that you have a theoretical ~90Ah to use across both batteries, that's something like 20 hours of compressor run time for a fridge, which should equate to something like 60 clock hours without starting the vehicle. Of course, this is dependent on ambient temps and fridge set temps.

 

[Psignore00]

borrowing this thread;

Which outlets are supposed to run on the aux battery when switched on?

In my case the 12V in the cargo area works, so does the USB-A/C in the rear passenger seat. But not the USB-A/C in the “glove box” between driver and front passenger seat.

Is that how it’s supposed to work?

This is how mine works too. It’s really frustrating the usb a/c inside the center console (you know, the one most likely to charge the drivers phone) doesn’t work with the switch.

It’s super convenient to be able to flip a switch and be able to keep charging a phone when we go to a kids game or store, etc. but then I have to unplug the cable and plug it in to the one in the rear seat.