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Aux Power not going to vehicle outlets when ignition is off.

j3t3r

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I'm having an issue where none of the vehicle electrical outputs are getting power unless the ignition is turned on. This affects the 120v in rear passenger and rear storage compartment, and all the usb, usb-c etc.

I known the the PWR Switch must be switched 'On' in the overhead control panel. When I perform this function the indicator light for that switch illuminates, but I'm still not getting power at any of the outlets. I'm still in first week of ownership and haven't had the time to go digging around for loose cables, etc. The dealership is willing to look at it but I'm 3+ hour drive away so I'd like to see if I can manage to fix it myself. It seems like it could be something very simple, was just posting this here to see if anyone has ideas about how I go about to start troubleshooting the problem.

I should, initially they were working, and I was enjoying boiling water with my travel kettle, and then the next day they inexplicably stopped.
 

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Did you check all the outlets with power on? Then when the power is off but the aux power switch on? What happens? I wonder if it works with the power on then it's the fuse/switch that control the Aux panel.
 

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I thought about that, but the outlets work fine with the ignition turned on. I briefly looked at the diagram for the fuse panel and didn't see any fuse that looked like it was specifically for aux power.
Ah yes - I forgot that part! 😁
 

j3t3r

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Did you check all the outlets with power on? Then when the power is off but the aux power switch on? What happens? I wonder if it works with the power on then it's the fuse/switch that control the Aux panel.
Yes, everything works normally with power ignition on at the key. So there is a fuse/switch that specifically controls the Aux panel? I didn't see that but will double check the fuse box diagram.
 

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It could be the switch of the Power Button itself, even if the light is ON, the light (LED) is probably independent from the switch, I mean not fed by the current going through the switch. Therefore a double switch, one for the light (not depicted), one for the current.

1707598125623.png

[EDITED] IMHO (In My Humble Opinion) there is no fuse for the Aux panel itself, but I could be wrong.
 
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Eric

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It could be the switch of the Power Button itself, even if the light is ON, the light (LED) is probably independent from the switch, I mean not fed by the current going through the switch. Therefore a double switch, one for the light (not depicted), one for the current.

View attachment 7843488

[EDITED] IMHO (In My Humble Opinion) there is no fuse for the Aux panel itself, but I could be wrong.
Did you just use an acronym
 

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Yes, everything works normally with power ignition on at the key. So there is a fuse/switch that specifically controls the Aux panel? I didn't see that but will double check the fuse box diagram.
It's gotta be the switch. I wonder if you have a lose wire that runs from the Aux switch to the battery.
 

marcusnilsson

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borrowing this thread;

Which outlets are supposed to run on the aux battery when switched on?

In my case the 12V in the cargo area works, so does the USB-A/C in the rear passenger seat. But not the USB-A/C in the “glove box” between driver and front passenger seat.

Is that how it’s supposed to work?
 

j3t3r

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borrowing this thread;

Which outlets are supposed to run on the aux battery when switched on?

In my case the 12V in the cargo area works, so does the USB-A/C in the rear passenger seat. But not the USB-A/C in the “glove box” between driver and front passenger seat.

Is that how it’s supposed to work?
I kind of just assumed they were all supposed to work, but to be honest I only tried the 12v in the cargo area and the outlets in the rear passenger seat.
 

j3t3r

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Am bumping this thread again because I spent some more time messing around with this fault.

When I flip the Aux power switch on I hear a clicking noise that sounds like its coming from the fuse box beneath the rear passenger seat. Can anyone confirms if this happens when they turn on their Aux Power switch? I've been looking at the Fuse Panel Diagram and the only one it seems like it could be is F128 Overhead Console Switch.
 

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My IG works the same way... Overhead PWR SW ON, PWR SW light ON, but no power to inverter outlets (120v) unless the ignition is ON.

I'd like to have control over the outlets regardless of the IGN SW position as well.
 

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My IG works the same way... Overhead PWR SW ON, PWR SW light ON, but no power to inverter outlets (120v) unless the ignition is ON.

I'd like to have control over the outlets regardless of the IGN SW position as well.
So my current car, not my IG, has a inverter in it. It only works when the engine is running.

Something to think about, a 100Ah lithium battery can run an appliance that requires 400W for approximately 0.25 hours, or 15 minutes, before it needs to be recharged. We don't have lithium in the IG, so cut that number in half. You are looking at 8 minutes before your battery would need to be charged.

But I'm not going to run 400w but my laptop which on average is 200w so you get 16 minutes of draw until you would want to start the engine.

The point is, you might be better off running a power station that have higher inverters and lithium battery for your needs.
 

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Something to think about, a 100Ah lithium battery can run an appliance that requires 400W for approximately 0.25 hours, or 15 minutes
This isn't quite accurate...

400W Load, 82% (very low) efficiency, yields 488W draw, at a (low for lithium) 12.5 volts is 39 amps; 100Ah lithium has (depending on the brand) a 85-90% load floor, so 85-90Ah of usable power. 85Ah/39A = 2.18 Hrs of run time.

A 100Ah battery could run a device with a 400A load for 15 minutes (assuming the battery was capable of outputting a constant 400A, however, most 100Ah batteries are only happy putting out 100A or less continuous)
 

ADVAW8S

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This isn't quite accurate...

400W Load, 82% (very low) efficiency, yields 488W draw, at a (low for lithium) 12.5 volts is 39 amps; 100Ah lithium has (depending on the brand) a 85-90% load floor, so 85-90Ah of usable power. 85Ah/39A = 2.18 Hrs of run time.

A 100Ah battery could run a device with a 400A load for 15 minutes (assuming the battery was capable of outputting a constant 400A, however, most 100Ah batteries are only happy putting out 100A or less continuous)
Do not let facts get infront of a good story. #Mathisfornerds

Thanks for the corrections
 

j3t3r

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My IG works the same way... Overhead PWR SW ON, PWR SW light ON, but no power to inverter outlets (120v) unless the ignition is ON.

I'd like to have control over the outlets regardless of the IGN SW position as well.
Interesting. I believe they are designed to work without ignition key turned on. It worked for me that way for about 24-hours unless I was hallucinating.
 

j3t3r

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Do we have a consensus or a wiring diagram on how the 110 outlets are supposed to be powered?
Or is there a specific fuse for the 110 outlets because it seems like my USB ports are back to functioning with the aux battery switched turned on now.
 

j3t3r

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@anand Do you have any idea how to begin troubleshooting this ?

I’m convinced that the 120v outlets are supposed to work with the overhead PWR switch.

From the manual:
Page 229: The 400W Power Inverter converts DC power to AC power…this is particularly useful when taking your Grenadier camping.

And Page 34: PWR Switch on vehicle electrical outputs when the ignition is off.

Since it doesn’t state only certain electrical switches will work and then tour the 120v AC power outlets as being useful when camping, shouldn’t they work with the ignition off ?
 
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