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Anyone fitting an UltraHook to their winch?

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I may have missed it, or need to start a new thread, but has any one clocked the clutch release handle to be up pointing up? I'm sure a hole would need to be cut to access it from the top, but somehow, I just don't like the handle sticking out front like that. May there is already a thread on this.
 

[ Adam ]

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It'd be much simpler to just carry a soft shackle, and safer too. I'm not a fan of adding metal into a recovery system where it's not needed.
 

DustCloud

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Are you meaning just to use the soft shackle with the winch rope directly? If so, won't
It'd be much simpler to just carry a soft shackle, and safer too. I'm not a fan of adding metal into a recovery system where it's not needed.

I like the ideas to remove metal from the system, but won't attaching the soft shackle directly create sharp bends in both rope components? The Red Winch recommendation seems to put one of these small winch rings in the loop they supply the winch with (pity they didn't put throw that in with the car...).

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Are you meaning just to use the soft shackle with the winch rope directly? If so, won't


I like the ideas to remove metal from the system, but won't attaching the soft shackle directly create sharp bends in both rope components? The Red Winch recommendation seems to put one of these small winch rings in the loop they supply the winch with (pity they didn't put throw that in with the car...).

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That green winch ring is a modern day snatch block, used in conjunction with a soft shackle they work very well in my experience, and are far lighter, so therefore far safer than a traditional old school snatch block in a double line winch pull recovery.
Sharp edges are a problem for plasma rope, bend radius not so much.
 
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globalgregors

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That green winch ring is a modern day snatch block, used in conjunction with a soft shackle they work very well in my experience, and are far lighter, so therefore far safer than a traditional old school snatch block in a double line winch pull recovery.
Sharp edges are a problem for plasma rope, bend radius not so much.
Exceeding the bend radius can mean line failure below the rated load strength.

Not sure about the line fitted to the factory winch, but the rule of thumb from sailing is that a minimum bend radius of 4 x the line diameter is necessary to retain 100% breaking strength.

I’ve popped a Saber winch shackle on that’s designed to receive a soft shackle, so both the eye on the winch line and the shackle attached to it are at their full strength. It’s aluminium so in the grand scheme of things slightly less kinetic if something fails.

I think this is Red’s intent when they are using the winch ring in this way (eg not as a substitute block, but as a substitute hook).
 
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Exceeding the bend radius can mean line failure below the rated load strength.

Not sure about the line fitted to the factory winch, but the rule of thumb from sailing is that a minimum bend radius of 4 x the line diameter is necessary to retain 100% breaking strength.

I’ve popped a Saber winch shackle on that’s designed to receive a soft shackle, so both the eye on the winch line and the shackle attached to it are at their full strength. It’s aluminium so in the grand scheme of things slightly less kinetic if something fails.

I think this is Red’s intent when they are using the winch ring in this way (eg not as a substitute block, but as a substitute hook).
Yes 4 times line diameter to maintain full strength, but soft shackles are approximately 2 to 3 times the diameter of the winch rope well the 16t soft shackles I use.
I always put a velcro anti abrasion sheath in the winch rope end loop to stop abrasion and wear and I guess that helps slightly with bend radius.
Unless you are doing a rare dead straight pull alloy fairleads also reduce strength through friction and bend radius but are much lighter and more compact than roller fairleads. Roller fairleads are superior ,less friction and better bend radius, but will not fit under the grenadier numberplate so this will be a first for me using an alloy fairlead.
I don't know what the breaking strain of the red winch rope is but I presume there is a fair bit of redundancy built in.
That green winch ring still looks to me like it could be used in conjunction with a soft shackle as a snatch block, but I could be wrong.
 

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In that configuration it may be referred to as a thinble
That green winch ring still looks to me like it could be used in conjunction with a soft shackle as a snatch block, but I could be wrong.

Its both/and - Red is advising that you can use their snatch ring as a thimble to prevent exceeding the bend radius limit.
 

DustCloud

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Thanks sll the above makes sense re. radius and confirms my proposed logic.

Adding the Red Winch 5T (or rated similar item) is by far the simplest and cheapest solution which maintains radius, perhaps adds least metal mass to the system, adds fewest metal parts, doesn't require re-splicing, and is consistent with the Red Winch advice for their product use. Factor 55 Ultrahook plus Load Spool to maintain radius is very nice, but much more expensive for occasional use (I'll carry some cable ties for working end management when not in use, and as supplied).
 

AZGrenadier

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I stuck on a Factor 55 Flat Splicer. Very easy install. Super clean.
 

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Tazzieman

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I've fitted the George , picked up one of their winch rings and bought a Saber 20m extension to use with the X lock if required.
Soon I will start playing around in my little forest at home.
I do like how compact the Red winch setup is.
 

AZGrenadier

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Using the splicer version is a great idea. Looks good, low profile and no tight bends for the rope. Just need to be comfortable with splicing it on. Lots of videos are available to explain the process which is quite easy.

Link to Factor 55
For Anyone worried about splicing the rope it was very easy. Took me about 20 min and I had never done it before. My guess is it would be under 5 if I did it again. Factor 55 sell a tool to help with it.
 
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