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What is draining my battery in my IG or QM when parked?

As a warning looking for shorts and drains and working or testing around the steering wheel or airbags DO NOT TEST SRS AIRBAGS & SEAT BELT PRETENSIONERS without knowing the circuit and what you are doing. Measuring resistance, OHMs and stray millivolts mV can set off airbags, and seatbelt pretensioners.
I will add that warning.
 
Here is the update. When I parked my QM at airport it showed SOC at 97%. I have the high aux panel but nothing is attached. I have no dash cam. I have no dual battery. My GMRS radio is directly attached to the battery but I control power via the microphone. It is turned off and microphone is unplugged.

I came home after 10.5 days. The SOC as soon as I started it up was 91%. I lost 6% or little more than a half percent a day.
 
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@TheDocAUS use mine as a control. Start by eliminating everything and slowly add. The tough part of my truck is it is a 2025, built in Jan and I took delivery in April. No time for battery to discharge.
 
I have tied up the editing and order of Part 1 and 2.

HELP NEEDED
I am looking for photos of the 3 areas mentioned in Part 2, point 8.
 
I have tied up the editing and order of Part 1 and 2.

HELP NEEDED
I am looking for photos of the 3 areas mentioned in Part 2, point 8.
Yes I’m on it. Raining cats and dogs today (back in the jungle) and I just couldn’t abide getting wet & muddy. Bear with me.
 
I installed the trim around the windscreen today. To help stop stone chips. It looks OEM.

I have some spare if you ever come back into Australia. :ROFLMAO:
 
Here is the update. When I parked my QM at airport it showed SOC at 97%. I have the high aux panel but nothing is attached. I have no dash cam. I have no dual battery. My GMRS radio is directly attached to the battery but I control power via the microphone. It is turned off and microphone is unplugged.

I came home after 10.5 days. The SOC as soon as I started it up was 91%. I lost 6% or little more than a half percent a day.
That loss was presumably down to the alarm power consumption, and doesn't seem to overly excessive.
 
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That loss was presumably down to the alarm power consumption.
It is one of the drains.

If you have a dual battery they equalise through the night.

My BLE shows something else takes place, but I am not 100% sure what it is. It might be the security system.

Any third party battery monitor would be a parasitic drain as well. Both of my batteries have a BLE unit.

In my car the anti rust system also draws some power overnight.

They all start adding up.
 
It is one of the drains.

If you have a dual battery they equalise through the night.

My BLE shows something else takes place, but I am not 100% sure what it is. It might be the security system.

Any third party battery monitor would be a parasitic drain as well. Both of my batteries have a BLE unit.

In my car the anti rust system also draws some power overnight.

They all start adding up.
You can also add to mine a tracker, which updates/ communicates daily when parked up.
 
My SOC today is 80%. Driving , it never really gets above that.
Let's have a guess what it will be when I return from Euro holiday in 6 weeks :D
 
Anti rust system drawing power?

What does this consist of?

Intrigued.

G.
I use the CAT System. I did not know whether it would work, so I tested it for 12 months before I said anything. I discuss it a bit here.


 
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Yes I’m on it. Raining cats and dogs today (back in the jungle) and I just couldn’t abide getting wet & muddy. Bear with me.
Obviously this inspection routine is specific to our diesel. Any actual faults will produce an error code, so all I’m normally doing is looking for damage, disconnected clips, dirt accumulation etc.

Engine bay:
  1. Check EGR connections and valve activation arms (any cracks?)
  2. Check loom bracket and nearby conduits (everything clipped in still?)
  3. Check coolant lines and DPF sensor/dosing lines (any sign of thermal damage?)
  4. Check MAF/turbo/inlet sensors & connectors (clean/undamaged?)
  5. Check HT & LT coolant and brake fluid levels while there, top up washer fluid
IMG_7319.jpeg


Engine underside:
  1. Check connectors and nearby conduits, which run upwards alongside the engine case (everything clipped in still?)
  2. Check DPF sensor/second dosing lines and nearby conduits (clipped in? damage?)
  3. Check for any oil pan/transmission damage or oil leaks

IMG_7318.jpeg


Rear seat electrical bay, sorry for the mess:
  1. Check CTEK D250SE & 120S connections
  2. Remove and check ARB Power Pack (fully charged?). Check connections to rear loadspace installations (these are below the charger you see here, which in turn is resting on a soft case containing the ARB jump pack)
  3. Check nothing is crushed or pinched. I really need to tidy those wire runs (it was temporary, I’ve been testing having the Noco charger hard-wired to the 120S. That grey Starlink bag there has a 50’ AC extension cord in it for the charger)

IMG_7320.jpeg
 
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This type of tool is invaluable for fault finding.
Fitting the online shunt allows you to see the current draw. As many have said you must let the vehicle go to sleep before disconnecting the battery.

This is a cheap one, Victron smart shunt might be a better choice if you intend to leave attached permanently.
Screenshot_20250827-093024.png
 
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