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What did you do with your Grenadier today?

Winters off? We’re awaiting snowfall over the next 30 hours measured in feet!

🤣

Awesome. I think we’re passed the worst of ours - watch this, I just persuaded the snow gods to dump a couple of feet on us in early March, it won’t be the first time!
 
Another update. Nailed it (well almost). The way to go is to use a lacquer paint stick. I messed around multiple times and finally came up with a good strategy. I used a tiny plastic “scraper” and used it to pack the recesses with some of the paint stick. It is not particularly liquidy, more like a paste, so I packed it full and wiped away the excess.

There was some residue left behind but I learned the hard way that the recesses are too shallow to simply wipe it off while still “wet”. I let it sit for days until the lacquer hardened up and then with a Qtip and a little dab of rubbing alcohol everything cleaned up.

You may notice that some of the black looks crappy but that is due to the over use alcohol needed to clean up the white out debacle. I’m going to reach out to @GrenadierUSA and see if they can make a version with deeper recesses and if so, this technique should look factory good.
Last update - this is the final form. Lacquer paint stick is definitely the way to go. IMO it looks factory good.
IMG_0838.jpeg
 
Drove up to the 4x4Expo today. There were a lot of posers and land cruiser and only one Grenadier ( chap selling tyres? ).

I did drive around the car park at midday and only spotted one other Grenadier in the parking.

Pic shows about a third of the event floorspace
 

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I guess this makes me a prepper 🤷‍♂️

I have a trip coming up that takes me far enough away from home that I would prefer to have it and not need it than need it and not have it. A$160 shipped from Summit Racing. Much cheaper than anything I could get locally.

Also some spare M8 x1.25 x 50mm cap screws from Bolt and Nut Australia. My front driveshaft has been replaced previously so I'm not expecting issues with broken driveshaft screws but I have them anyway.

I will pre-grease the CV then vacuum seal it in a bag.

Continuing my post above, one CV hotfix kit ready to go. Just add hand tools, rags and sweary words.
  • pre-greased CV
  • cap gasket cemented in place
  • two sets of class 12.9 cap screws (16)
  • bolt tabs
  • new boot clamp plus spares
  • new shaft circlip plus spares
  • tube of Loctite 243
  • extra CV grease
  • Purpose built two-bolt puller to remove the old CV (if needed)
I've gone with class 12.9 industrial socket head cap screws because the factory torx screws have been known to break during removal which I think might be related to the red thread locker used at the factory. If they have used Loctite 263 or an equivalent it needs heat to release it.
I'll use medium grade Loctite 243 which is still suitable for M8 at ~45Nm finished torque but it only needs hand tools to undo it.

Again, this is just insurance for a worse-case self-recovery scenario. I'm running standard height suspension so a driveshaft or CV failure should be warrantable.

I'm happy to loan this kit to Australian forum members on a replace-what-you-use basis. Provisos are that I don't need it at the same time and you collect and return it promptly or pay postage both ways.
DM me with dates if you're interested. It will be available from 3rd April (Good Friday).

PXL_20260223_041921142.MP.jpg
 
Continuing my post above, one CV hotfix kit ready to go. Just add hand tools, rags and sweary words.
  • pre-greased CV
  • cap gasket cemented in place
  • two sets of class 12.9 cap screws (16)
  • bolt tabs
  • new boot clamp plus spares
  • new shaft circlip plus spares
  • tube of Loctite 243
  • extra CV grease
  • Purpose built two-bolt puller to remove the old CV (if needed)
I've gone with class 12.9 industrial socket head cap screws because the factory torx screws have been known to break during removal which I think might be related to the red thread locker used at the factory. If they have used Loctite 263 or an equivalent it needs heat to release it.
I'll use medium grade Loctite 243 which is still suitable for M8 at ~45Nm finished torque but it only needs hand tools to undo it.

Again, this is just insurance for a worse-case self-recovery scenario. I'm running standard height suspension so a driveshaft or CV failure should be warrantable.

I'm happy to loan this kit to Australian forum members on a replace-what-you-use basis. Provisos are that I don't need it at the same time and you collect and return it promptly or pay postage both ways.
DM me with dates if you're interested. It will be available from 3rd April (Good Friday).

View attachment 7922015
Excellent work. Having sheared off two bolts at the front diff during an away from home removal would highlight the need of moles/double nuts/heat source etc incase same happens. No doubt already in people's kit/camping hear but if not and two bolts next to each other shear then not ideal.
 
I keep a Dremel mini Blow Torch in my tool kit , which is very useful for dealing with thread locked fixings. Amongst other uses
 
Continuing my post above, one CV hotfix kit ready to go. Just add hand tools, rags and sweary words.
  • pre-greased CV
  • cap gasket cemented in place
  • two sets of class 12.9 cap screws (16)
  • bolt tabs
  • new boot clamp plus spares
  • new shaft circlip plus spares
  • tube of Loctite 243
  • extra CV grease
  • Purpose built two-bolt puller to remove the old CV (if needed)
I've gone with class 12.9 industrial socket head cap screws because the factory torx screws have been known to break during removal which I think might be related to the red thread locker used at the factory. If they have used Loctite 263 or an equivalent it needs heat to release it.
I'll use medium grade Loctite 243 which is still suitable for M8 at ~45Nm finished torque but it only needs hand tools to undo it.

Again, this is just insurance for a worse-case self-recovery scenario. I'm running standard height suspension so a driveshaft or CV failure should be warrantable.

I'm happy to loan this kit to Australian forum members on a replace-what-you-use basis. Provisos are that I don't need it at the same time and you collect and return it promptly or pay postage both ways.
DM me with dates if you're interested. It will be available from 3rd April (Good Friday).

View attachment 7922015


Me bags renting that for when we head off on our next major trip later this year some time. 🙏🏼👍🏼
 
I keep a Dremel mini Blow Torch in my tool kit , which is very useful for dealing with thread locked fixings. Amongst other uses
Great for doing heat-shinks as well
 
Tried to fit the RRE ditch light brackets but they will not work with the Grenadier USA fender plates that I already had installed, just FYI for folks looking to install both. Switching to the Signature Autosports option as they mount on the hood hinge bolts.

Separate topic, the MagSafe phone mount to go around the heated seat buttons should be available soon, saw a prototype it looks really good.
 
I've got that one too. Didn't really fix the problem, still plenty of noise when off road.
You and CVH should count yourselves lucky only getting the whine when off road. Like the Baron I can get noise regardless of terrain. I find it is particularly noticeable when light coloured trousers are being worn. A problem that I don't think Amazon can cure for £20.
 
I keep a Dremel mini Blow Torch in my tool kit , which is very useful for dealing with thread locked fixings. Amongst other uses
I reckon that would do for crème brulle’s too!
The shop bought domestic ones here in Noo Zild seem to get blocked up easily with cheap butane 🤣👍🏼
 
You and CVH should count yourselves lucky only getting the whine when off road. Like the Baron I can get noise regardless of terrain. I find it is particularly noticeable when light coloured trousers are being worn. A problem that I don't think Amazon can cure for £20.
Have you considered wearing a darker colour for longer drives?
 
Have you considered wearing a darker colour for longer drives?
It's getting in and out on the nearside in light trousers that causes the passenger side whine rather than the length of the journey. The inside of the Grenadier is quite clean and doesn't cause marking on the back of the leg. Another nearside whine can be caused by the design of the Buzz Overland side steps. They have nice little round holes on them to let the water out. Perfect diameter to get a high heel stuck in and snap off on exiting the vehicle. That causes a very loud loud noise that is distinctly audible from the drivers seat.
 
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