What are the options for the Nato plug in the back?

[INEOS OG]

Do yourself a solid and put some lube on the socket dust cap threads and the plug screw ring threads while you're messing with this project. A few folks have had seized caps. The alloy threads do like to corrode and gall up a bit. I'm using an industrial petroleum jelly but anything that won't react with the cap seal will work. A lanolin product, a dab of rubber grease, etc.

Thank you for mentiining this. I read about that issue as well. Some caps were seized on requiring replacenent of the plug.

 

[Tazzieman]

For induction cooking , as opposed to a quick brew up, you need lithium - and plenty of it.

 

[Clark Kent]

Ok a 2000W hotplate would drain the Battery within two espressi. Is it possible to run the Nato plug from the household battery?

It's just wiring so you're free to reconfigure as much as you like, but running down the auxiliary (2nd, household) battery to make coffee takes away the reason IA designed it the way they have - so the 2nd battery can backup the primary (starter) battery.

Voltage is considered as 'pressure' in an electrical system. The auxiliary battery is acting as a pressure accumulator by storing voltage within the electrical system ready to top up the primary battery if it gets low. In that respect it's a safety system. The auxiliary battery sits quietly off to the side ready to push voltage to the primary battery if it needs help (low voltage detected). For that specific goal, the Smartpass does this in a more intelligent way than a 2-battery parallel 12v system, or a conventional DC-DC charger which is typically one way towards the 2nd battery.

If IA had done a better job explaining their design philosophy behind this system we probably would have stopped trying to second guess their work ages ago.
That said, IA's description of the Auxiliary Battery option in the configurator is unhelpful, even today:

We now know that all loads are wired to the primary battery and the consumer terminal is disabled on the Smartpass 120S (later vehicle builds get a stripped down and unbranded device called the battery combiner). IA's statement that the auxiliary battery can run accessories without drawing on the primary battery is misleading. Accessories ARE drawing on the primary battery but the auxiliary battery will replace the power by trickle charging the primary battery when required.
That loose description is probably why we were all expecting to get a conventional starter + house battery with a DC-DC charger in between.

 

[jakospence]

Do yourself a solid and put some lube on the socket dust cap threads and the plug screw ring threads while you're messing with this project. A few folks have had seized caps. The alloy threads do like to corrode and gall up a bit. I'm using an industrial petroleum jelly but anything that won't react with the cap seal will work. A lanolin product, a dab of rubber grease, etc.

I’ll second that! Just took mine in for 12k service, mentioned it to them after I gently put a channel lock on it to diagnose that it was fully seized. I stopped in to grab my ezpass for the loaner and saw a fully shattered cap sitting in my cup holder!

 

[Brock63]

I am looking at it a couple ways.... One is to convert a pair of jumper cables over to plug into it to jump other vehicles....... Or also convert power cord for an offboard air compressor system to just plug into rear NATO plug rather than alligator clamps on battery or permanently installing for use just a few times a year at most. Also if have winch on a flat trailer for hauling cars or something...can run it off that as well.....or lighting for a toy hauler....all those things can run off that if you add a male plug.

 

[Baron von Teuchter]

I am looking at it a couple ways.... One is to convert a pair of jumper cables over to plug into it to jump other vehicles...

This is a great idea.

Found this on amazon

Amazon.co.uk

How much?!

 

[TheDocAUS]

this is very tidy - where did you pick up power from?

For a single ARB compressor you can use the wire ends under the seat (not enough power for a dual air compressor in that circuit). Download the Table from here to find out about the various wire ends.

You could also use a spare stud on the busbars, but you may need to change the fuse to match the compressor installed.

Wire ends in the Grenadier and QM (covering standard and high power aux power panels)

Mar 23, 2025

wire ends, switches, spare circuits

• TheDocAUS
• Resources, Maintenance Tutorials, Procedures and guides.

 

[INEOS OG]

Just FYI - a single air compressor can be neatly installed under the rear seat on the right (passenger side for LHD) of the car.

I know because I have down it; the ARB CKMA12 compressor.

View attachment 7836831View attachment 7836832

Great install brother. Can you tell us more about the way the hose attaches? I bought the same compressor that comes as a kit from Agile Offload that plumbs the hose to the back and while it is a nice kit, I would rather not cut the panel in the cargo area.

Here is the AO unit.


View: https://youtu.be/j5amcn70QEA?si=s6J5FMUptdfKUC-i

 

[Chops]

I use the NATO plug for my ExtremeAire 12 Volt compressor

That’s my plan too - have ordered a plug to replace the alligator clips

 

[Chops]

I have a slight variation on this. When engine is running the NATO plug is powered. I will also install a bypass switch so that for low current draws the NATO can be used. Bypassing the 80 klm speed cut out is essential.

I’ve been thinking about a tow-behind electric mower…you can get gasoline powered ones but the point here is to use the NATO plug - but I haven’t seen anything commercially available yet…

 

[Clark Kent]

I’ve been thinking about a tow-behind electric mower…you can get gasoline powered ones but the point here is to use the NATO plug - but I haven’t seen anything commercially available yet…

You're an ideas man @Chops

 

[holto]

Yes it's possible @Tenac. If you search for any of my posts on this including earlier in this thread, you'll see I have adapted the NATO socket to a SB50 Anderson which connects to a DC-DC charger in my camper.

By default the NATO socket either does not work unless you have the front winch option, possibly only an MY23 ROW quirk; or it does work but only if certain operating conditions are met including speed below xx mph. That makes sense when you recall that IA supplied the NATO socket for use with the removable rear winch which is not typically used while blasting down the freeway.

If you want to make the NATO socket available at other times for other purposes (look away now Ineos), you will need to take over control of the circuit that supplies the trigger coil on the Albright Solenoid located under the right side trim panel in the rear.
Options:
1. If you want the NATO socket live when the key is on/engine running you need to run an ignition feed to the pull-in side of the solenoid coil.
2. If you want the NATO socket live anytime via an ON/OFF switch you need to run a +12V feed to the same spot. The solenoid uses power to operate and this will add to the battery drain if you leave it turned ON without the engine running even if there is nothing plugged into the NATO socket.

If you do this I also recommend derating the NATO supply circuit fuse from 350A to something closer to your expected maximum current draw. I'm using a 60A fuse I robbed from the 7-way fuse holder (ROW vehicles) because I also use the NATO socket for my portable compressor.
No point sacrificing your equipment to protect a fuse that's bigger than you need

I have no experience with 48v trailers but the above will get you 25% closer


Factory trigger wire disconnected from the Albright Solenoid (green wire).
View attachment 7886585

Ignition feed connected to the solenoid coil (yellow arrow).
View attachment 7886586

Derated fuse installed in the 5-way Littelfuse holder. 350A > 60A.
View attachment 7886587

I was just going to use f5 thas spare, pity there isnt a stud in it by default and its a pain to retrospectivly install and carries some risk given the bus is live and unfused.

iam just going to piggyback of the top of the rear nato fuse as there is heaps of thread left on the stud to accomodate a 2nd lug, and then place a smaller fuse in the spare space in the box to protect the derated section, in effect go-

[12V+]---[350A]--o---[Grenny solonoid]-------[NATO]

                 |

                 o---[ 50A ]---[customer Relay]-------[rear anderson]