Steps added to factory rock sliders

[Steve.B]

Is that conduit and conduit straps? If this is going to be dirt road only, maybe. But as soon at that 5700lb truck makes grazing contact with a solid object, they are gonna get torn off and be a hell of a damage multiplier. Do they make any hollow tube noise and resonate and any speeds, like blowing into a coke bottle? Seriously though, take those off in a controlled fashion, before they come off in an uncontrolled fashion.

No wind noise it has end plugs, they are high tensile steel tubes 1.9kg each, if I make grazing contact with the factory brush bars they would be ripped off far easier.
no it is not conduit and conduit straps, it is high tensile tube and very strong temporary fencing clamps.

 

[Steve.B]

Where did you mount these compressors? Could you please provide pictures?

Hi chrsbe,
Sorry for the delayed reply, there are multiple ways you can mount the 2 single ARB compressors under the vehicle, it depends if you have rock sliders as I do, or if you have steps, or neither, or after market steps or rock sliders.
There is a nice gap between the sill panels and the chassis, and if you mount the compressors with their pistons on their side as you can see in the picture, and one in front of the other they fit nicely.
You need to make a sturdy bash plate out of 2 or 3mm steel, and make brackets that clamp to rock sliders, or utilise the existing captive bolts used to attach the rock sliders or steps, or both.
never drill a hole in the vehicle or chassis, there are plenty of existing places to bolt to.
The single ARB compressors are waterproof as long as you have a raised air intake ( under bonnet ), the twin ARB compressors with their fan cooling are not water or dust proof, and will eventually fail if mounted under a vehicle, although they would not fit under a grenadier the way they are configured anyway.
The most time consuming thing for me was making 2 individual looms so you have redundancy, but utilising 1 switch, I used a missile switch, and 1 of the 2 supplied high pressure cut off switches.

 

[MileHigh]

I had a local welder fabricate some nerf bars/steps for the factory rock sliders. I had something similar on my LR4 and really missed having the step on the Ineos sliders.

After preparing/cleaning the bare metal I just painted them with a few coats of primer and rustoleum paint. I painted over the original powder coating too after some sanding and cleaning. The factory powder coat is extremely thin with a lot of chips and nicks from only 1700 miles of driving. From past experience when sliders get used the powder coating gets scratched off so it will be easy to touch up any scrapes and scratches with paint to prevent rusting.

View attachment 7846868

The more I look around, the more I like this. Just starting to look for a step/rail, and they aren’t cheap or available. Have to do something, with out a step, the IG is an graceful climb for my wife, and me…

Is this something that I could show to a local shop and have them do? Any thoughts on what the price range would be for parts and labor?

 

[Steve.B]

Are they friction fit only? Is there anything to prevent rotation if a real lard a$$ steps on them?

Hi Reducs,
I had my 160kg / 352 LB friend over from Canberra on the week end, I had him stand on the "friction fit only side steps" while I jumped on them 80kg.
The friction fit only side steps did not move at all, but the Grenadier sure did on its springs.

 

[Robert T]

Is this something that I could show to a local shop and have them do? Any thoughts on what the price range would be for parts and labor?

Yes, it's a simple job for an experienced shop. I used 1" square tube. The fabrication and material from a local welder cost me just over $400 for both sides. Off roading last weekend I had a very tight turn around a tree and the nerf bars prevented the side of my truck from rubbing as I "pivoted" around the tree trunk. Very happy with them as steps and side protection.

 

[MileHigh]

Yes, it's a simple job for an experienced shop. I used 1" square tube. The fabrication and material from a local welder cost me just over $400 for both sides. Off roading last weekend I had a very tight turn around a tree and the nerf bars prevented the side of my truck from rubbing as I "pivoted" around the tree trunk. Very happy with them as steps and side protection.

Thanks! I think you mentioned that you might have made it so that they were bolt on instead of permananetly welded? Like 3/4 inch bolts at the four attachement points with holes drilled into the slider to attach to? Something like that?

 

[Robert T]

Thanks! I think you mentioned that you might have made it so that they were bolt on instead of permananetly welded? Like 3/4 inch bolts at the four attachement points with holes drilled into the slider to attach to? Something like that?

The 1" square tubing would need to be welded to the slider for strength. I also had the top diamond plate, which is steel, welded onto the frame. The other option is to screw the top diamond plate onto the square tube frame (using rivnuts or something) and use aluminum diamond plate instead of steel. This might be better for rust prevention because you could then paint the top part of the square tubing before putting the diamond plate on. I sprayed fluid film on the bottom and into the tight space between the diamond plate and tubing. So far there is no sign of rust on the areas that I can see.