Steering stabilizer bar

[Brock63]

I could use some help please. I got the stock stabilizer bar off but the passenger side bolt is stuck inside the stabilizer bar. It just keeps turning and turning and the bolt doesnt come out. There is some rust on the end so I sprayed some PBBlaster but still no luck. Help.

So all you do is remove the two bolts/nuts on each end of the steering stabilizer...dont remove any bar. The install new shock using same bolts as original if got an OEM replacement. Do you have pictures so can see what speaking of?

 

[Chadd7]

This bolt is stuck inside

 

[Chadd7]

 

[Chadd7]

 

[Shopkeep]

View attachment 7908399

It should just push out unless they have changed the design or the LHD ones are different, here is what my one looked like when I took it off and also the bolts

 

[Chadd7]

Yes but the metal sleeve inside the passenger side is stuck onto the bolt. So it just turns and turns

 

[Chadd7]

It does not slide out

 

[Skymark]

Maybe a bit of pb blaster or similar and press it out?

 

[Chadd7]

Can anyone tell me what the part number is for the 18mm bolt? I may just drive without the steering damper locally until I get the new bolt from a dealer

 

[Chadd7]

Maybe a bit of pb blaster or similar and press it out?

I am soaking in some PB blaster as we speak and using a vice grip to try to get it out.

 

[TCMColorado]

I recommend the use of a dead blow hammer with a non marring face. That should dislodge the bolt without causing any damage.

 

[Clark Kent]

I am soaking in some PB blaster as we speak and using a vice grip to try to get it out.

If you're already into vice grips then there's not much to lose.

Suggestions:

1. Lock the vice grips around the damper sleeve then use an impact driver to try and spin the bolt. Work it both directions to loosen it up.

2. If you have a bench vice, place an oversized socket or a suitable steel tube offcut over the bolt head as a temporary sleeve. The bolt head and flange needs to be smaller than your sleeve so it can pass through. Wind a nut back onto the bolt so its just proud of the threaded end. Place it into your vice and use the vice jaws as a press to push the bolt through the socket/sleeve. Once it moves finish it it off by hand with a brass drift and a hammer over your vice jaws.

 

[Chadd7]

I dont have a bench vice. And hand vice didnt do the job. Gonna get a new bolt. Hope dealer has it.

 

[Chadd7]

Thanks for all your input folks. I appreciate it. Just annoying to have such a simple installation get so complicated. I did drive around the block without the steering damper and it's definitely a huge difference and feels like my LC200. Will be calling a few dealerships in the morning.

 

[Dokatd]

It's effectively just a bolt, go get one at a local hardware store and call it good. A matching thread and length will likely have a larger head which is fine.

But a solid smack on the ground will likely pop that one loose. Put a thin piece of wood on the ground to reduce maring.

 

[TCMColorado]

Get grade 8 if you are worried about strength.

 

[Chadd7]

It's effectively just a bolt, go get one at a local hardware store and call it good. A matching thread and length will likely have a larger head which is fine.

But a solid smack on the ground will likely pop that one loose. Put a thin piece of wood on the ground to reduce maring.

I tried to hit it with a hammer upside down my work table and it did nothing. Gave it 8-10 strikes after saturating it with PB Blaster. It's fused real tight. I'm going to try and get the OEM bolt. I don't want to experiment with a generic bolt. At least that's Plan A.

 

[Dokatd]

I tried to hit it with a hammer upside down my work table and it did nothing. Gave it 8-10 strikes after saturating it with PB Blaster. It's fused real tight. I'm going to try and get the OEM bolt. I don't want to experiment with a generic bolt. At least that's Plan A.

Fair enough, but a grade 12.9 bolt will do fine. Not in any way an experiment.

Regardless, hope you can find one at the dealer.