Should I ? - Wheels

[emax]

counter point to that is that alloy is stronger

You can learn something new every day.

 

[globalgregors]

Those pictured are the steel rims, was that the intention?

I share the belief that a catastrophic impact that would destroy an alloy wheel intended for 4WD use would typically also damage a steel equivalent beyond further use, emphasising this is pure speculation as side-by-side testing is difficult.

As you say, the difference being that a steel rim with either inboard or outboard rim damage within reason can be dealt with trail side while equivalently minor damage to an alloy wheel (eg a crack to the inboard rim only) wants a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand.

Even minor cracking of the outboard rim or a spoke is a structural failure on an alloy and is to my knowledge irreparable... but I stress I've only ever seen it happen on SUVs. I presume Ineos alloys will be suitably robust.

I see the ADF/Army G-Wagon fleet operate alloys and carry a single spare... Bundeswehr G-Wagen versions have steel beadlock type things like the Tonka truck at bottom.

 

[globalgregors]

Those pictured are the steel rims, was that the intention?

I share the belief that a catastrophic impact that would destroy an alloy wheel intended for 4WD use would typically also damage a steel equivalent beyond further use, emphasising this is pure speculation as side-by-side testing is difficult.

As you say, the difference being that a steel rim with either inboard or outboard rim damage within reason can be dealt with trail side while equivalently minor damage to an alloy wheel (eg a crack to the inboard rim only) wants a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand.

Even minor cracking of the outboard rim or a spoke is a structural failure on an alloy and is to my knowledge irreparable... but I stress I've only ever seen it happen on SUVs. I presume Ineos alloys will be suitably robust.

I see the ADF/Army G-Wagon fleet operate alloys and carry a single spare... Bundeswehr G-Wagen versions have steel beadlock type things like the Tonka truck at bottom.


View attachment 7795459View attachment 7795460

Note: a few ideas for the utility rails there as well, gents!

 

[emax]

a TIG/MIG welder which might not be to hand

That's a standard equipment for even the simplest Overlander.

 

[globalgregors]

That's a standard equipment for even the simplest Overlander.

See, this is where I go wrong @emax - lack of preparation

 

[Max]

See, this is where I go wrong @emax - lack of preparation

The Queenslanders are asking, where's the esky?

 

[Davman]

The Queenslanders are asking, where's the esky?

You just use the “tools” at hand to make a suggestion that your opposition give you their esky. (Beer cooler)

 

[Max]

use the “tools” at hand
Well said...

Kulhbox, chilly bin, ice box to name a few...

 

[Camskii]

Funny looking alloys there

 

[Max]

Funny looking alloys there

An idea that I will play with...I am definitely going to have the 17 alloys...looking so smart and a touch tuff...happy motoring

 

[grenadierboy]

Max - those rear light protectors are held by metal screws into the rear panel?

 

[Max]

Max - those rear light protectors are held by metal screws into the rear panel?

I really haven't been able to decide and probably won't until I have a car to view but in a perfect world we should be able to remove covers and get into that tail light cavity and yes stainless screws would be optimal, pending on the metal it is going through. If it is aluminum you have to coat the stainless to stop corrosion or rethink...I also need to know if the ladder will be an issue when the door is opened...happy motoring

 

[emax]

If it is aluminum you have to coat the stainless to stop corrosion or rethink...

Won't perhaps work. If you tighten the screws, they will likely get into contact with the alloy.

Plastic bushings would do (functionally similar to dowels).

 

[bemax]

if you can screw it- glue it.

 

[globalgregors]

Won't perhaps work. If you tighten the screws, they will likely get into contact with the alloy.

Plastic bushings would do (functionally similar to dowels).

Aluminium rivnuts?

 

[emax]

Aluminium rivnuts?

Sounds good. But the problem is two different metals. When moisture is added, they form a battery and the flowing current will erode the inferior material. If you screw an iron-based bolt into aluminum, even if it's a rivet nut, the problem surfaces.

This is the old standard enemy of the (real) Defenders.

 

[ECrider]

Sounds good. But the problem is two different metals. When moisture is added, they form a battery and the flowing current will erode the inferior material. If you screw an iron-based bolt into aluminum, even if it's a rivet nut, the problem surfaces.

This is the old standard enemy of the (real) Defenders.

I understood globalgregors was meaning alu rivnuts into alu?? I ie same/same.

I've had many a problem with alu into steel requiring acid baths

 

[globalgregors]

I understood globalgregors was meaning alu rivnuts into alu?? I ie same/same.

I've had many a problem with alu into steel requiring acid baths

Yup, precisely.

 

[Logsplitter]

My understanding is the tyres come with white lettering on one side and black on the other so you can choose which way you prefer

White lettering on the inside for me.

 

[ECrider]

White lettering on the inside for me.

Still undecided on the white lettering. Will run them as delivered until fit my winter wheels/tyres and then have them reversed if needs be at the tyre shop when pick up the muds