Overlanding Spares Master List

[Tinki]

OK team , Here it goes . I need the hive Mind .

So first overlanding trip in the Grenadier is comming up . So i decided to make a master lsit of spare parts to go with it . Below is everythign i want to carry with me . I have found part numbers for most things but not for everyting .
What i would appreciate is that if any one of you can Copy this list in a new reply and add part numbers to it .
I will not put Fuse part numbers because the legend of a man @TheDocAUS made an exaustive list here: https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/main-fuses-used-in-ineos-grenadier.12411958/
The main problem is BMW engine parts because when ordered from INEOS are very expensive vs when oredered from BMW
My list is based on the B57 engine

The Master list :

	Ineos Part Number	OEM manufacturer Part Number	Aftermarket Part Number
Alternator	EI-0000015983	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Starter Motor	EI-0000006985	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Top Radiator hose		BMW Part Number:
Bottom Radiator hose		BMW Part Number:
Front Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5E00-006960
Rear Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5F00-006860
Front wheel studs	GRA-5E00-002680
Rear Wheel studs	GRA-5F00-021700
Oil filter		BMW Part Number : 11427826799
Fuel Filer
Air filter	GRA-3B02-008230	MAHLE Part Number: LX3985/1
Front Break pads		Brembo part Number: P68062
Rear break pads		Brembo Part Number : P68063
Wiper blades Front		Bosch Part Number : AR16U

Thank you guys , please add anything you fell is needed.

 

[Tinki]

Forgot to add Serpentine Belt

Ineos Part Number	OEM manufacturer Part Number	Aftermarket Part Number
Alternator	EI-0000015983	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Starter Motor	EI-0000006985	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Top Radiator hose	BMW Part Number:
Bottom Radiator hose	BMW Part Number:
Front Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5E00-006960
Rear Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5F00-006860
Front wheel studs	GRA-5E00-002680
Rear Wheel studs	GRA-5F00-021700
Oil filter	BMW Part Number : 11427826799
Fuel Filer
Air filter	GRA-3B02-008230	MAHLE Part Number: LX3985/1
Front Break pads	Brembo part Number: P68062
Rear break pads	Brembo Part Number : P68063
Wiper blades Front	Bosch Part Number : AR16U
Serpentine Belt

 

[NQ94]

Alternators and starters are heavy and bulky to store in a car and may only be necessary for a long remote overlanding trip. If you good with tools a spare brush regulator assembly is likely all that is needed for the alternator issues and a starter solenoid is all you need to carry.

 

[globalgregors]

Forgot to add Serpentine Belt

Ineos Part Number	OEM manufacturer Part Number	Aftermarket Part Number
Alternator	EI-0000015983	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Starter Motor	EI-0000006985	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Top Radiator hose	BMW Part Number:
Bottom Radiator hose	BMW Part Number:
Front Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5E00-006960
Rear Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5F00-006860
Front wheel studs	GRA-5E00-002680
Rear Wheel studs	GRA-5F00-021700
Oil filter	BMW Part Number : 11427826799
Fuel Filer
Air filter	GRA-3B02-008230	MAHLE Part Number: LX3985/1
Front Break pads	Brembo part Number: P68062
Rear break pads	Brembo Part Number : P68063
Wiper blades Front	Bosch Part Number : AR16U
Serpentine Belt

Please refer @Rok_Dr excellent 'Rok_Dr’s Exceedingly Unofficial Owner’s Manual Supplement', Table 12.
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/rok_dr’s-exceedingly-unofficial-owner’s-manual-supplement.12415655/ for part numbers.

Difficult to answer without knowing the basic specs of your vehicle and expedition. Petrol/Diesel? If diesel, water/diesel separator filter fitted as per SA/Aust spec? Plastic or steel bumpers? Duration/Terrain/Remoteness?

We’ve been operating our vehicle away from the service network in Central and South America since Dec 24.
Happy to share what we’ve used in that time.

 

[Tinki]

Alternators and starters are heavy and bulky to store in a car and may only be necessary for a long remote overlanding trip. If you good with tools a spare brush regulator assembly is likely all that is needed for the alternator issues and a starter solenoid is all you need to carry.

most Probably you are right , i have not thought of that . i can turn a wrench its not an issue but sometimes i think simplicity and ease in cases like these is best . I will look into it though .

 

[Tinki]

This is certainly a comprehensive list.

Please refer @Rok_Dr excellent 'Rok_Dr’s Exceedingly Unofficial Owner’s Manual Supplement'
https://www.theineosforum.com/threads/rok_dr’s-exceedingly-unofficial-owner’s-manual-supplement.12415655/ for part numbers.

Difficult to answer without knowing the basic specs of your vehicle and expedition. Petrol/Diesel? If diesel, water/diesel separator filter fitted as per SA/Aust spec? Duration/Terrain/Remoteness?

We’ve been operating our vehicle away from the service network in Central and South America since Dec 24.
Happy to share what we’ve used in that time.

That would be perfect form someone like yourself guys doing the ultimate overland trip .
Specified on the table that its a B57 Euro Spec car . As far as i aware only difference between the Australian market is the water separator .

Diesel B57 Euro Spec MY23	Ineos Part Number	OEM manufacturer Part Number	Aftermarket Part Number
Alternator	EI-0000015983	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Starter Motor	EI-0000006985	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Top Radiator hose		BMW Part Number:
Bottom Radiator hose		BMW Part Number:
Front Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5E00-006960
Rear Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5F00-006860
Front wheel studs	GRA-5E00-002680
Rear Wheel studs	GRA-5F00-021700
Oil filter		BMW Part Number : 11427826799
Fuel Filer
Air filter	GRA-3B02-008230	MAHLE Part Number: LX3985/1
Front Break pads		Brembo part Number: P68062
Rear break pads		Brembo Part Number : P68063
Wiper blades Front		Bosch Part Number : AR16U
Serpentine Belt

 

[globalgregors]

That would be perfect form someone like yourself guys doing the ultimate overland trip .
Specified on the table that its a B57 Euro Spec car . As far as i aware only difference between the Australian market is the water separator .

Diesel B57 Euro Spec MY23	Ineos Part Number	OEM manufacturer Part Number	Aftermarket Part Number
Alternator	EI-0000015983	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Starter Motor	EI-0000006985	SEG/Bosch Part Number:
Top Radiator hose		BMW Part Number:
Bottom Radiator hose		BMW Part Number:
Front Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5E00-006960
Rear Wheel Speed sensor	GRA-5F00-006860
Front wheel studs	GRA-5E00-002680
Rear Wheel studs	GRA-5F00-021700
Oil filter		BMW Part Number : 11427826799
Fuel Filer
Air filter	GRA-3B02-008230	MAHLE Part Number: LX3985/1
Front Break pads		Brembo part Number: P68062
Rear break pads		Brembo Part Number : P68063
Wiper blades Front		Bosch Part Number : AR16U
Serpentine Belt

Ah, I see. I edited my reply above to direct you to Table 12 in RokDr’s supplement, which lists the part numbers.

I ask about the plastic versus steel bumpers because the Aust/SA spec steel front end includes reinforced radiator mounts that are a sensible modification to add for expedition use if your vehicle doesn’t have them already.

 

[NQ94]

most Probably you are right , i have not thought of that . i can turn a wrench its not an issue but sometimes i think simplicity and ease in cases like these is best . I will look into it though .

Another thing to look into; With the alternator on the Ineos being controlled by the engine ECU does changing the alternator require reprogramming for the ECU to recognise the new unit?

 

[landmannnn]

To replace wheel studs you need a special tool for the rear hub, a big socket for the front and a huge torque wrench. So would omit the studs.

 

[Tinki]

Ah, I see. I edited my reply above to direct you to Table 12 in RokDr’s supplement, which lists the part numbers.

I ask about the plastic versus steel bumpers because the Aust/SA spec steel front end includes reinforced radiator mounts that are a sensible modification to add for expedition use if your vehicle doesn’t have them already.

Thank you , i am aware of the reinforcements. Already ordered them for the dealer and i plan to weld some studs on the radiator brackets . I think it will be cheaper than the other solutions on the market . Will post the solution once done .
Thank you for the heads up though

 

[Tinki]

To replace wheel studs you need a special tool for the rear hub, a big socket for the front and a huge torque wrench. So would omit the studs.

Yes i am aware i have both the sockets available . Since something like this is a show stopper i will include them . Having the parts in hand is always good in my mind because even if i limp to a garage i will be able to sort it .
If i am not mistaken the rear studs can be simply unwound out , the front need to be pressed out (or vice versa).

Thanks for the comment though .

 

[globalgregors]

Having trouble copy/pasting on my mobile.

There’s a post listing our spares inventory at #29 in the below thread.

We are right at GVM and I tend to assign payload to liquids, recovery and other equipment before bulkier spares.

Post in thread 'COMPILING OUTBACK/OVERLANDING CHECKLIST'

Nov 11, 2024

I am working on a draft checklist with @Rok_Dr when traveling remote or overlanding. Anyone think of more points? Feel free to suggest some.

Some suggested checks to help with preventive maintenance when travelling remote.

1. If you are going on a long trip, a pre-trip inspection by your mechanic is helpful, especially if the mechanic services off-road vehicles. Get the car serviced if needed;
2. Monitor the TEMPERATURE Menu when driving. Keep an eye on oil temps, water temps, and tyre pressures and temps;
3. Manually check the tyre pressure on your spare tyre;
4. Take a...

• globalgregors

• 

 

[Greasemonkey]

A spare parts list for long-distance travel is generally a good idea. Unfortunately, it's only one side of the coin.

Anyone with access to the INEOS portal can look up the necessary part numbers and then hope that they'll still be correct when needed.

The next problem is the price of spare parts. I understand that INEOS has to recoup development costs somehow, but with such exorbitant prices, very few people will be able or willing to stock up on parts.

What we're seeing here in Europe is that the days of just-in-time spare parts delivery are long gone. It's not uncommon for vehicles to be out of service for weeks because the parts simply aren't available.

In these cases, it would be ideal to have alternative parts available. While you can find the original manufacturer's part numbers (Brembo, Bosch SEG, etc.) on all the parts installed on the vehicle, searching using these numbers almost always yields no results, and the only way to obtain these parts is through an INEOS dealer.

For example, the wheel bearings used are common to thousands of other vehicles and are therefore readily available almost everywhere. So why would someone in Australia need to order a wheel bearing from Belgium when 10 from an alternative manufacturer are available on the shelf of a workshop just 50 km away?

If you can't even get complete starters and alternators easily, how are you supposed to find individual replacement parts for these components? I believe those days when that was possible are definitely over.

It's all well and good to carry the necessary spare parts for a specific repair, but what you shouldn't forget are the necessary tools.
Many parts on the INEOS are extremely robust, which is why the tools also need to be a size larger.

I'm a fan of good tools and can understand anyone who buys a small WERA tool set, but honestly, compared to what you actually need for the INEOS, it's all just a toy.

The INEOS uses wrench sizes that I've never seen on any comparable vehicle before.

Track rods and steering rods with 36 and 46 mm nuts. The required tightening torques are 250 Nm.

Removing the front wheel hub requires a 41 mm socket. The M30 nut is tightened to 375 Nm.

The rear wheel hub is even worse. It uses a special M55 nut that is tightened to 600 Nm.
To loosen and tighten the nut, you need a special tool from OZAT or Momento (GU 11 3/4 drive), which normally costs around €500. When my dealer first had to repair the rear axle, he didn't have the necessary tools or a suitable torque wrench.

Currently, removing the front driveshaft is also a recurring issue. This requires various Allen and Torx sockets, extensions, a heavy-duty hammer, a ratchet strap, a tool to remove the rear end cap of the joint (an angle grinder, a hacksaw, or at least a chisel), and if the joint won't release from the splines, you'll also need a puller and later, appropriate pliers to release the retaining clip.

I don't want to discourage anyone from acquiring a suitable parts kit, but you should think the whole process through carefully.

 

[globalgregors]

A spare parts list for long-distance travel is generally a good idea. Unfortunately, it's only one side of the coin.

Anyone with access to the INEOS portal can look up the necessary part numbers and then hope that they'll still be correct when needed.

The next problem is the price of spare parts. I understand that INEOS has to recoup development costs somehow, but with such exorbitant prices, very few people will be able or willing to stock up on parts.

What we're seeing here in Europe is that the days of just-in-time spare parts delivery are long gone. It's not uncommon for vehicles to be out of service for weeks because the parts simply aren't available.

In these cases, it would be ideal to have alternative parts available. While you can find the original manufacturer's part numbers (Brembo, Bosch SEG, etc.) on all the parts installed on the vehicle, searching using these numbers almost always yields no results, and the only way to obtain these parts is through an INEOS dealer.

For example, the wheel bearings used are common to thousands of other vehicles and are therefore readily available almost everywhere. So why would someone in Australia need to order a wheel bearing from Belgium when 10 from an alternative manufacturer are available on the shelf of a workshop just 50 km away?

If you can't even get complete starters and alternators easily, how are you supposed to find individual replacement parts for these components? I believe those days when that was possible are definitely over.

It's all well and good to carry the necessary spare parts for a specific repair, but what you shouldn't forget are the necessary tools.
Many parts on the INEOS are extremely robust, which is why the tools also need to be a size larger.

I'm a fan of good tools and can understand anyone who buys a small WERA tool set, but honestly, compared to what you actually need for the INEOS, it's all just a toy.

The INEOS uses wrench sizes that I've never seen on any comparable vehicle before.

Track rods and steering rods with 36 and 46 mm nuts. The required tightening torques are 250 Nm.

Removing the front wheel hub requires a 41 mm socket. The M30 nut is tightened to 375 Nm.

The rear wheel hub is even worse. It uses a special M55 nut that is tightened to 600 Nm.
To loosen and tighten the nut, you need a special tool from OZAT or Momento (GU 11 3/4 drive), which normally costs around €500. When my dealer first had to repair the rear axle, he didn't have the necessary tools or a suitable torque wrench.

Currently, removing the front driveshaft is also a recurring issue. This requires various Allen and Torx sockets, extensions, a heavy-duty hammer, a ratchet strap, a tool to remove the rear end cap of the joint (an angle grinder, a hacksaw, or at least a chisel), and if the joint won't release from the splines, you'll also need a puller and later, appropriate pliers to release the retaining clip.

I don't want to discourage anyone from acquiring a suitable parts kit, but you should think the whole process through carefully.

Indeed… and/or brace oneself for the possibility that one may need to wait in the event of a major failure.

In our case, parts availability was not an issue however Colombia’s Customs Dept held up releasing our shipment for 3 months despite everyone’s best efforts.

We got lucky and had a memorable sojourn in Medellin. May have been another story if the issue occurred remote.

That said, I would rather face the wait than carry the weight! Almost every aspect of the expedition is either improved or de-risked if the vehicle is kept within GVM.

 

[Tinki]

A spare parts list for long-distance travel is generally a good idea. Unfortunately, it's only one side of the coin.

Anyone with access to the INEOS portal can look up the necessary part numbers and then hope that they'll still be correct when needed.

The next problem is the price of spare parts. I understand that INEOS has to recoup development costs somehow, but with such exorbitant prices, very few people will be able or willing to stock up on parts.

What we're seeing here in Europe is that the days of just-in-time spare parts delivery are long gone. It's not uncommon for vehicles to be out of service for weeks because the parts simply aren't available.

In these cases, it would be ideal to have alternative parts available. While you can find the original manufacturer's part numbers (Brembo, Bosch SEG, etc.) on all the parts installed on the vehicle, searching using these numbers almost always yields no results, and the only way to obtain these parts is through an INEOS dealer.

For example, the wheel bearings used are common to thousands of other vehicles and are therefore readily available almost everywhere. So why would someone in Australia need to order a wheel bearing from Belgium when 10 from an alternative manufacturer are available on the shelf of a workshop just 50 km away?

If you can't even get complete starters and alternators easily, how are you supposed to find individual replacement parts for these components? I believe those days when that was possible are definitely over.

It's all well and good to carry the necessary spare parts for a specific repair, but what you shouldn't forget are the necessary tools.
Many parts on the INEOS are extremely robust, which is why the tools also need to be a size larger.

I'm a fan of good tools and can understand anyone who buys a small WERA tool set, but honestly, compared to what you actually need for the INEOS, it's all just a toy.

The INEOS uses wrench sizes that I've never seen on any comparable vehicle before.

Track rods and steering rods with 36 and 46 mm nuts. The required tightening torques are 250 Nm.

Removing the front wheel hub requires a 41 mm socket. The M30 nut is tightened to 375 Nm.

The rear wheel hub is even worse. It uses a special M55 nut that is tightened to 600 Nm.
To loosen and tighten the nut, you need a special tool from OZAT or Momento (GU 11 3/4 drive), which normally costs around €500. When my dealer first had to repair the rear axle, he didn't have the necessary tools or a suitable torque wrench.

Currently, removing the front driveshaft is also a recurring issue. This requires various Allen and Torx sockets, extensions, a heavy-duty hammer, a ratchet strap, a tool to remove the rear end cap of the joint (an angle grinder, a hacksaw, or at least a chisel), and if the joint won't release from the splines, you'll also need a puller and later, appropriate pliers to release the retaining clip.

I don't want to discourage anyone from acquiring a suitable parts kit, but you should think the whole process through carefully.

Thank you for the detailed reply ! Well aware of the difficulties . Going into this with my eyes completely open and aware of the limitations . That said in my mind the fun of trips like these is the planning and logistics involved .