I mean this in jest but it kind of makes me wonder if you happen to catch the crack early, would a tube of grease and some heavy duty plastic wrap + zip ties buy you some time?
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Don't you mean duct tape and a couple of zipties?I mean this in jest but it kind of makes me wonder if you happen to catch the crack early, would a tube of grease and some heavy duty plastic wrap + zip ties buy you some time?
I mean this in jest but it kind of makes me wonder if you happen to catch the crack early, would a tube of grease and some heavy duty plastic wrap + zip ties buy you some time?
Problem with #1 is you may end up with a fire first.At those RPMs and angles I doubt it would make it. You really have 3 choices until Ineos or aftermarket guidance,
1. Install a strap so when it lets lose it does not cause an accident or 15K in damages, and carry a spare Rezeppa joint
2. Install the Agile Off road shaft and never worry about it again, but deal with the occasional deceleration noises.
3. Do nothing and see what happens, and your odds are very bad. Maybe it wont be late at night on the highway, in the rain while towing like me. But at least I did not take out anything expensive.
Problem with #1 is you may end up with a fire first.
RE: #3, for now I am inspecting the grease seal ‘boots’ VERY often…At those RPMs and angles I doubt it would make it. You really have 3 choices until Ineos or aftermarket guidance,
1. Install a strap so when it lets lose it does not cause an accident or 15K in damages, and carry a spare Rezeppa joint
2. Install the Agile Off road shaft and never worry about it again, but deal with the occasional deceleration noises.
3. Do nothing and see what happens, and your odds are very bad. Maybe it wont be late at night on the highway, in the rain while towing like me. But at least I did not take out anything expensive.
I have been contemplating garage removal of the shaft to break loose the bolts and potentially to pull the OEM CV and replace it with the Terra/Crown replacement using anti seize on the splines and the yoke face. The goal is to make field replacement as easy as possible. I have a puller (if the CV is stuck on the splines) and an angle grinder (to remove the back cover) in my shop. I will not be carrying these items on the road.What would the kit be that you would carry to change a Rezeppa joint on a trip, in the field?
With the reports of red locktite welding bolts in and braking bolts, would it be worth the effort to remove the stock axle once, for practice, and to brake the locktite in the shop?
If you do this let me know, I would like to come down and participate if you don't mind.I have been contemplating garage removal of the shaft to break loose the bolts and potentially to pull the OEM CV and replace it with the Terra/Crown replacement using anti seize on the splines and the yoke face. The goal is to make field replacement as easy as possible. I have a puller (if the CV is stuck on the splines) and an angle grinder (to remove the back cover) in my shop. I will not be carrying these items on the road.
I would be happy to make it a team effort. Thinking we should use a torch to heat the flange bolts a bit before removal. I really want to avoid breaking a bolt, extractions are a very unpleasant activity which I have learned the hard way.If you do this let me know, I would like to come down and participate if you don't mind.
@AFdude412 changed his, and broke a bolt, which scares me a bit.
@AFdude412 has a cool induction heater just for that. Amazon or Harbor Freight.I would be happy to make it a team effort. Thinking we should use a torch to heat the flange bolts a bit before removal. I really want to avoid breaking a bolt, extractions are a very unpleasant activity which I have learned the hard way.
An induction heater is a great idea.@AFdude412 has a cool induction heater just for that. Amazon or Harbor Freight.
I have a Rezeppa in my tool kit and have been planning to remove the stock parts as a loosening and learning experience.What would the kit be that you would carry to change a Rezeppa joint on a trip, in the field?
With the reports of red locktite welding bolts in and breaking bolts, would it be worth the effort to remove the stock axle once, for practice, and to breake the locktite in the shop?
I would be happy to make it a team effort. Thinking we should use a torch to heat the flange bolts a bit before removal. I really want to avoid breaking a bolt, extractions are a very unpleasant activity which I have learned the hard way.
What size two/three leg puller is needed, as I don’t want to be carrying any more kit than I need to on my travels. ThanksI'm certain broken bolts are possible since we have heard about them here. But to be fair I have yet to break a bolt on multiple trucks and multiple shafts per truck. I have used both hand tools and impact to remove and install.
But I do like the idea of slight over torquing to break loose prior to removal and the use of things like anti-seize as preventative measures. That said, I have not found them to be necessary yet as we have kind of perfected removal of stuck joints.
The real trail killer though could be the joint sticking on the shaft. Some joints stock or Terra slip off like butter, some are bound up a bit and need some method of pressing or pulling. This was proven out in Palo Duro canyon last week when a shaft boot failed and had to be serviced out in the wild. The solution ended up being they had to take the shaft into town to use a gear puller.