Front Driveshaft Removal - Tech Data Request

[AFdude412]

Hey everyone. I decided it was time to do some preventative maintenance and swap out my driveshaft as I'm lifted 3" and 10,000 miles on this shaft. Nothing wrong with it. Just staying ahead of any issues.

I was able to get the front shaft unbolted without too much dramas at the axle side. The transfer case end on the other hand has been a bit of a headache. I sheared a bolt off and still can't get the CV to disconnect from the TC flange. I currently have it soaking in penetrating oil and have whacked it a few times with a hammer (with whatever room I can swing the thing) and still can't break it loose.

So my request is to see if anyone has any tech data on how to drop the crossmember. I saw that it's part of the Ineos tech data for the front shaft removal. And like many of us here, I'm still waiting for several months now for my access to tech data. I was hoping someone may be able to post it up here or give me some guidance on how to remove the crossmember.

Has anyone else been down this path yet? Thanks in advance.

 

[Dokatd]

You can feed a long punch or bar or pipe from the back of the crossmember to the CV. You can get some solid whacks from that point. You will have to rotate the joint periodically of course.

I'm assuming one bolt is still partially in the CV? Assuming so you will be limited on what you can do.

 

[AFdude412]

Ohhh! That's a good idea. Yeah, one bolt is partially still in the CV, but at least it's not threaded. That SOB will be the next fun part when I finally break this free from the flange.

What part are you easiest to get a whack on, the flange joints, or the driveshaft itself, forward of the CV?

You can feed a long punch or bar or pipe from the back of the crossmember to the CV. You can get some solid whacks from that point. You will have to rotate the joint periodically of course.

I'm assuming one bolt is still partially in the CV? Assuming so you will be limited on what you can do.

 

[Dokatd]

Ohhh! That's a good idea. Yeah, one bolt is partially still in the CV, but at least it's not threaded. That SOB will be the next fun part when I finally break this free from the flange.

What part are you easiest to get a whack on, the flange joints, or the driveshaft itself, forward of the CV?

You can get purchase on the side of the CV as I recall. It's not an easy process by any means but you aren't in an easy spot. But to be clear I have 100% done this on a Grenadier so I'm not asking you to be a guinea pig. Good luck, I'm routing for you.

 

[Tazzieman]

Saw this on FB
"small ratchet strap around the driveshaft, transfer case end. the other end to just about anything forward of the shaft. couple clicks and it'll pop out."

 

[AFdude412]

That technique seems pretty simple. I like simple.

Are you anchoring the strap by wrapping it on around the flared portion of the CV?

 

[Dokatd]

Saw this on FB
"small ratchet strap around the driveshaft, transfer case end. the other end to just about anything forward of the shaft. couple clicks and it'll pop out."

Not a bad idea. Add some whacks with a hammer and it should pop off.

@AFdude412 if you happen to mangle the CV flange I have a brand new spare you are welcome to.

 

[Dokatd]

That technique seems pretty simple. I like simple.

Are you anchoring the strap by wrapping it on around the flared portion of the CV?

You would go on the transition from the 1" drive shaft to the larger 2.5" portion. Not on the actual CV itself. The boot flange is not attached to the CV once the bolts are removed.

 

[AFdude412]

You would go on the transition from the 1" drive shaft to the larger 2.5" portion. Not on the actual CV itself. The boot flange is not attached to the CV once the bolts are removed.

Any risks in damaging the c clip by doing that? Just worried about the groove it sits in.

I’ll be changing the CV anyways.

 

[Dokatd]

Any risks in damaging the c clip by doing that? Just worried about the groove it sits in.

I’ll be changing the CV anyways.

Probably not a ton unless the clip is already damaged. But honestly you are a bit past that worry. At this point you need to just get the shaft off. Or I suppose you could put the remaining bolts back in and take it to the dealer and let them handle it.

But honestly I think you are in good shape. Just add a little tension and then shock the joint with a few smacks and you should be smooth sailing from there.

I like where your head is at though. Sorry it had to be a pain, seems some CV's won't go down without a fight.

 

[AFdude412]

Probably not a ton unless the clip is already damaged. But honestly you are a bit past that worry. At this point you need to just get the shaft off. Or I suppose you could put the remaining bolts back in and take it to the dealer and let them handle it.

But honestly I think you are in good shape. Just add a little tension and then shock the joint with a few smacks and you should be smooth sailing from there.

I like where your head is at though. Sorry it had to be a pain, seems some CV's won't go down without a fight.

Thank you. Any hot tips on getting that bolt out once I get the cv off?

 

[Dokatd]

Thank you. Any hot tips on getting that bolt out once I get the cv off?

A touch of heat right at the base of the threads. Use some quality vise grips to grab hold.

The factory bolts have some thread locker and most certainly some corrosion holding them on.

You might consider a cold wet rag around the back of the drive flange if you have to heat things up a fair bit. But the flange is fairly large and will take a lot of heat before it can damage any seals. I have a seal as well god forbid if needed. Just let me know how it goes and if you need anything.