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Front Drive Shaft Update

Good to know. You seem like someone who actually knows what they are talking about in regard to this issue. I do have to say that I have gathered from your previous posts that there is not a lot of warning of impending failure though. Things like you won't see small cracks, you are going to see grease flung about and an actual hole in the boot. I am worried that I maybe stop at a gas station, check the boot and it looks fine, and 200 miles later driving at 83 mph this thing grenades. Maybe I have misunderstood some of your previous posts. Thank you

Boot failure and catastrophic failure are two different things. There are two failure modes to be concerned about, boot failure and clip failure. I have had both on my truck. Boot failure ultimately ends in potential fire. And clip failure can possibly end with mechanical damage to transfer case or transmission.

Boot failure is the predominant failure, it starts with a tear in the boot, then grease leaves the chat. At that point you are on borrowed time as the joint starts cooking itself if you keep operating at high speeds. But if you are driving say sub 50mph then the joint may last forever in relative terms. I would confidently and have for that matter driven on a torn boot for hundreds of miles at lower non highways speeds. I would not consider highway unless it was a short exit to exit run.

A clip failure is virtually impossible to spot pre failure. You can only feel for this or tear down the joint to inspect. You would have to fairly aggressively putt on the back half of the shaft trying to pull the shaft out of the joint. If it gives at all your clip failed. But this assumes full failure. I personally had a partial failure that would not have shown without tearing down the joint.

To prevent a clip failure your only solution is to change the clip prior to setting off regardless of mileage on the clip.

To prevent a boot failure you should change the boot or whole joint about every 7-10k miles. So if you're taking off on a 2k mi journey and you have 5k miles on your current joint/boot I would highly consider swapping the boot and joint. You can keep the part you replaced as an emergency spare, it's still good.

Hopefully that all makes sense, neither would keep me from taking a trip, I would just check the assembly at every fueling stop and be vigilant about any tone changes or minor vibrations that don't feel normal.
 
I can't really argue that because you are right. But changing a joint is only just slightly more involved. And the weight/space savings is pretty huge. You can carry 1,2 or 3 joints and still take up less space and room. I have never been a fan of carry whole shafts, but I can quickly change a U-joint on the trail so a Rzeppa is a breeze.

To each their own.
Yeah, I'm still on the fence on buying an extra shaft since I have a few extra CVs. Going to the dealer on Monday for my 12k service and I'll see how much they would charge me for a spare.
 
Man I’d be grateful for someone to record a video of the process of replacing a boot, joint, shaft and post it here so I know what to do when mine fails and which tools and parts will be needed.
I'm happy to when I have another joint to replace. But keep in mind the process is different the first time vs the second. The first one takes a bit more effort for sure.
 
Has this style been discussed?
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If he's remote, the tow to the nearest dealership is included in the roadside assistance.
In Australia it's only 100km, if you are on a gazetted road.
And many insurance companies won't take you as we are over 3500kg GVM - their limit for standard flat beds.
 
In Australia it's only 100km, if you are on a gazetted road.
And many insurance companies won't take you as we are over 3500kg GVM - their limit for standard flat beds.
And for many of us, our 24 months of complementary roadside assistance has expired. Hopefully my Club 4x4 coverage (with optional remote recovery) will suffice.
 
We don't know who the original owner is; privacy laws and all. Without the original order info it would be impossible to know who installed it. I think the closest Owl Vans is in Oregon so unlikely it was actually them anyway.
They wouldn't break into a kit to give us measurements to identify the kit either.
Owl should be able to use the vin to see what kit was installed, if they did the install. If not I don't believe they ask for the vin on kit sales.
 
Do remember that assuming you catch the shaft before it destroys stuff under neath, you can drive forever with out the front shaft installed. That is the one saving grace of this disaster
 
Do remember that assuming you catch the shaft before it destroys stuff under neath, you can drive forever with out the front shaft installed. That is the one saving grace of this disaster
That's what I thought as well but apparently it destroys the transfer case driving without the front shaft for a long period of time, according to some posts in this forum. I was thinking to just remove the front drive shaft, lock the center differential and install it when I go off-roading but that's not a viable option.
 
That's what I thought as well but apparently it destroys the transfer case driving without the front shaft for a long period of time, according to some posts in this forum. I was thinking to just remove the front drive shaft, lock the center differential and install it when I go off-roading but that's not a viable option.
This is where some guidance from Ineos would be really helpful. They just don’t want to acknowledge the issue at all. Now would be a great time for them to have a fix available since every grenadier ever built is going to need a service appointment to fix the New Year’s Day bug.
 
Owl should be able to use the vin to see what kit was installed, if they did the install. If not I don't believe they ask for the vin on kit sales.
a service tech was able to find some comparably loaded down vehicles with stock suspension to measure with me against to validate it was a 2.5"

Also now that the dealers and ineos are involved I magically have the original order and install invoices now. I don't know why owl was originally being difficult but it's moot at this point.
 
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