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Front Drive Shaft Update

I removed the shaft, and fortunately, I managed to get home without any damage. After removing the teraFlex CV joint, which had been installed just 2,000 km ago, I noticed that the snap ring that holds the shaft in place had failed, causing it to pop out. The original CV joint, as already mentioned, was inserted by interference, while this replacement for the teraFlex went in very easily. This probably caused the force to be completely discharged onto the snap ring.
 

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A good question. There are a couple of chaps on the local whatsapp group here that seem pretty well connected and are technically savvy but..... currently we are navigating a change in dealership in Perth and their current focus is on establishing a strong relationship with the new dealer and migrating some ongoing issues the group were tackling with Ineos/Magic. Some of the whatsapp members are on here so they may catch this, but I reckon any approach will be after the dealer transition settles.

Apparently the new agent Eurokar will be open for business in early November and its lights out for Magic on the 31 December. My annual is due mid November so hoping they will be open for business very soon.

Cheers
Steve
Went and test drove a wagon at Magic. Their yard is so small you couldn't swing a cat by its tail. Hope the next dealership is bigger.
 
I removed the shaft, and fortunately, I managed to get home without any damage. After removing the teraFlex CV joint, which had been installed just 2,000 km ago, I noticed that the snap ring that holds the shaft in place had failed, causing it to pop out. The original CV joint, as already mentioned, was inserted by interference, while this replacement for the teraFlex went in very easily. This probably caused the force to be completely discharged onto the snap ring.
I have seen stock CV's slip off and on just like the Terra joint. Mine was moderately firm. Regardless, there really shouldn't be any force on the snap ring at all.
 
Since the teraflex joint fits too loosely without any friction and since the teraflex boots are compatible with the original joint, I reassembled the original joint with the two teraflex boots waiting for someone to find a definitive solution
 

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I removed the shaft, and fortunately, I managed to get home without any damage. After removing the teraFlex CV joint, which had been installed just 2,000 km ago, I noticed that the snap ring that holds the shaft in place had failed, causing it to pop out. The original CV joint, as already mentioned, was inserted by interference, while this replacement for the teraFlex went in very easily. This probably caused the force to be completely discharged onto the snap ring.
I can't recall if you repaired the shaft from a previous failure with the Terraflex joint and the damage was caused then but the circlip groove on spline on the shaft in the photo appears unserviceable now. There is a radius/chamfer on the face of the circlip groove the circlip has to work against. It is quite likely the circlip is going to come off again. Circlips generally have a flat side and a slightly curved side from when made, its a good idea to place the flat side against the side of the groove that will take the most load.
 
I can't recall if you repaired the shaft from a previous failure with the Terraflex joint and the damage was caused then but the circlip groove on spline on the shaft in the photo appears unserviceable now. There is a radius/chamfer on the face of the circlip groove the circlip has to work against. It is quite likely the circlip is going to come off again. Circlips generally have a flat side and a slightly curved side from when made, its a good idea to place the flat side against the side of the groove that will take the most load.
And the splines look "unwell" to me
 
From the pictures it looks like the clip groove is chamfered or worn on both the spline side and end of the shaft side. There is going to be both push and pull tension as the driveshaft tries to slide fore and aft in the CV joint splines during axle compression and extension. Those chamfered or rounded edges are going to act like small ramps which the clip is going to ride up effectively trying to open the clip as you would do when removing the clip with c-clip pliers. Do that a few thousand times as everything moves about and it's possible to imagine the clip flexing enough to fatigue crack and split in half.
 
From the pictures it looks like the clip groove is chamfered or worn on both the spline side and end of the shaft side. There is going to be both push and pull tension as the driveshaft tries to slide fore and aft in the CV joint splines during axle compression and extension. Those chamfered or rounded edges are going to act like small ramps which the clip is going to ride up effectively trying to open the clip as you would do when removing the clip with c-clip pliers. Do that a few thousand times as everything moves about and it's possible to imagine the clip flexing enough to fatigue crack and split in half.

I've asked before but didn't see an answer.
Has anyone checked the dimensions from the T/C flange to the differential flange when the suspension is at the limits of travel for standard and lifted and then compared that to the driveshaft length? In other words: Is the driveshaft hitting its maximum and minimum working length including slip joint travel, but working under some residual tension and compression when the suspension is fully flexed? That would be hammering the c-clip once the splines loosen up. Do that for enough cycles and we could expect to see potential failure/dislodgement of the c-clip.

Secondly: Where does the slip joint vent to? I can't see a vent in the boot so I assume it vents inside the driveshaft. Every slip joint/yoke I've played with has been free moving on the splines but any significant spline stiffness or insufficient venting would turn the slip yoke into a piston and slowly hammer out the c-clip.

All postulation folks. Jump in if you have already looked at this or have any answers.
 
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