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Diff locks.

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real world - I have the LR2! I used HDC for Cadillac Mountain (the paved mountain roadway curves down from the top over about 3 miles and over 1,000 feet of elevation. Had I been braking the entire way, it would have been a bad thing I'd imagine. On other public roads, HDC can be too slow. Although Cadillac Mountain was a public road, everyone was driving slowly, so HDC was keeping pace and doing fine in the line of cars. I've used it on private gravel roads and it works fine. The problem is usually you just simply want to have fun and bang the car down the dirt road, but obviously that has expensive drawbacks.
 
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I doubt you can double clutch a chain drive transfer case into low range as the low range gear sets are generally planetaries. That's a lot of metal to get moving and would like require upshifting the transmission to a higher gear first to drop the revs at the transmission output shaft before going double, triple, or even quadruple the rpms the planetaries will need to increase by. If you can do it I am duly impressed (y). Anyway, I think I'd hate to see your low gears at rebuild time if I'm honest.
I have missed this. It's neither the speed of the double clutching nor the type of gearing that matters, it's just getting the engine revolutions correct at the time of engaging gears. It's fairly easy when you get uset to it. I have done it with more than ten Land Rovers including transfer boxes LT95 and LT230. And also with couple of Japanese products :rolleyes:

And it not quadruple on planetary gears, it's always the hi/lo ratio.
 

bakepl

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Well, that's a casuality, I tested everything on a short track in Austria today: Here we go (navigation app) did send me through the shortest road, shortcut, about 200m up in the woods, no car had passed there in years, not useful, there is an asphalt road around it, slightly longer.
And there was a trunk of several meters, thickness of my leg, or thickness of the forearm of @Tazzieman, more or less parallel to the track and other branches and mud. Ideal situation to test the stuff.

Central diff lock in high was hard but quite OK to engage. I had to move the car several times to engage the "low" position, a meter or two backwards and forward again, and trying to engage again, indeed in neutral position.

I didn’t succeed to pass the obstacle. moved somme smaller pieces of wood. I then engaged rear diff, it took also some moving of the car, but it got engaged. Still no succes. I engaged the front diff lock, quite easily (beginner's luck?). And succeeded in moving two meters forward. Nice. But I gave up. Testing the diff locks was OK for me, and the time I would loose moving some smaller wooden trunks was not worth the effort.

Then in rear, trying to disengage the front and rear diff locks, I managed to damage one of my rear lights, damned ...
View attachment 7813765
It took quite some time before all the diff lock lights went out after disengaging, a minute or so (didn't chronometer).

Perhaps I should pass my driving licence again, because yesterday I didn't damage my roof ... almost not:
View attachment 7813766
Disappointed, yes for the damage, but the experience was ok. I have also a small but long scratch from yesterday crossing another vehicle in the forest in Austria. This I don't mind, will not be the last.
For Jean...;) and fronts available as well...


1704756520188.png
 

bemax

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