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AO now offers Jumper Cables with 50 mm² NATO Plug

linksK9rig

Grenadier Owner
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Maryland
Just wanted to highlight that AO now offers a Jumper Cable with NATO plug to make use of our NATO connector. Got mine delivered today, cool stuff!
 

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I wondered about this but I seem to recall it’s only 350A through the NATO socket?
Correct. The circuit is fused at 350A. I don't recall the fuse characteristics but it may have a surge rating of 500A and a continuous rating of 350A. That might explain the 500A label on the switch 🤷.
@TheDocAUS might have studied that fuse in more detail.
 
Correct. The circuit is fused at 350A. I don't recall the fuse characteristics but it may have a surge rating of 500A and a continuous rating of 350A. That might explain the 500A label on the switch 🤷.
@TheDocAUS might have studied that fuse in more detail.
The main fuse for the rear NATO plug circuit is found on stud 3 of the 5 Stud busbar. It is a ZCASE MEGA fuse.

 
Seems like a pretty cool functionality. It seems like it would be a good use of the NATO plug if you had jumper cables and then you could swap out other connectors also. Do I seem to remember something like that?
 
So I’ve basically ignored the fact that I have a NATO plug until now. Forgive my ignorance of its function….can my truck get jump started using it with this type of cable….or is it strictly power out?
  • ELECTRICS/NATO PLUG: Understanding the NATO plug on the Grenadier here and why you need to check your NATO plug here;
  • ELECTRICS/NATO PLUG: Using the NATO plug to power accessories, look here;
  • ELECTRICS/NATO PLUG: Check for corrosion and water ingress into the NATO plug, the topic is discussed here. One solution is to use a 50mm (2” inch) Camlock Rubber Gasket - agricultural or plumbing supplies shops have them or try eBay or Amazon. I also put Tef Gel on to the threads to hinder corrosion;
  • ELECTRICS/NATO PLUG: Re-wiring the NATO Socket to INT1 look here (yes INT1, the reference was corrected in a later post);
From this list:

 
So since it’s the NATO plug, would you have to have it in drive or reverse with the parking brake on to get it to work? Isn’t that something of a oddity because of it stated use for a portable winch?
 
This cable is useful to give power of the grenadier to other cars. The 500Amp circuit is triggered by a relay which obviously needs power to switch. Right? If the grenadier is flat this cable is useless am i right?
 
So since it’s the NATO plug, would you have to have it in drive or reverse with the parking brake on to get it to work? Isn’t that something of a oddity because of it stated use for a portable winch?

You can bypass all of the operating conditions by following something like this post from TomD (also included in TheDocAUS' post above), or just go directly to the NATO solenoid like I did and replace the trigger wire with a 12v source of your own choosing.

This pic is taken behind the trim in the right side rear corner under the flap. Look at the single spade connector circled. The green wire is the factory wire that comes from the control relay under the seat (referenced in the post above). The red wire is one that I added to replace the green wire. It comes from an ignition-feed circuit so the NATO solenoid is closed and the socket is live whenever the key is on. Yes, that adds a bit of extra battery drain if the key is on and the engine is not running.

You can achieve the same by:
- following the post above (modify the relay wiring under the seat); or
- add your own ignition-feed circuit like I did, or
- fit a jumper wire from the solenoid hot side (the red cable without conduit) to the single spade connector. Needs an insulated M8 ring to an insulated male spade; or
- for a real quick and dirty fix, remove the cable from the switched side of the solenoid (the cable on the right with the conduit) and stack both cables onto the hot side terminal of the soleniod. That takes the solenoid out of the circuit completely.

DISCONNECT THE BATTERY BEFORE DOING ANY OF THIS. That's 350 live and angry amps sitting at that uninsulated ring terminal on the left ⚡⚡

I chose my method because (I needed a quick solution and I didn't have a better idea at the time, plus) it's 100% reversible should that ever be necessary. No factory wiring was harmed by this method!
You would improve on my method by using either INT1 or INT2 as the 12v source so the NATO socket is switched on whenever those circuits have power available. That eliminates the extra battery drain issue.


NATO Solenoid.png
 
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