Workshop Manuals available?

[Jean Mercier]

I was at a decent moment home (around 2PM) to finally use the "access to the manual".

I had a repair to do, in fact "in warranty", but i thought: "this is easy, I do it myself!"
The handle of my right door was loose, and it was clear that it was only one (1) screw or not tightened enough.

Not that easy for three reasons:

1. I had to remove the inside trim and everything behind it + the window to access the bolt!
2. Explanation was (for me) not always very clear
3. Some "necessary" actions were not necessary, for instance disconnecting the battery (but I didn't do it anyway)

It took me the whole afternoon, and I am ... delighted.
I did it! Thanks to the not perfect and incomplete explanation, but nothing is perfect!

I will try to document it completely when I have some more time. Including images or video from the Ineos manual.

[EDITED] This was a win-win: a warranty work was executed by a customer! No travel time to my dealer and I learned a lot, and no warranty cost for Ineos!

 

[Tazzieman]

Well done @Jean Mercier ; these jobs will help us deal with oissues post warranty for sure.
It is how I manage my classic cars , as do many others.
An old site which has proved excellent for my 944 is a great example of what we could strive for.
Clarks garage click on workshop manual tab

 

[Logsplitter]

So in the manual I’ve been looking up spare parts and specifically wheel bearings. So it seems front and back wheel bearings are the same. But different hub nuts. O rings are mentioned for rear bearing but not for front. Under front axle assembly I find two O rings but I can’t decipher what for. The only other O rings mentioned on front axle is a single O ring so not for bearings but possibly output shaft. Maybe some on the forum with better mechanical knowledge could enlighten me then I can put info in the resources section

 

[Clark Kent]

I was playing with this a bit today. On a windows PC you can right click on an item in the parts list and select Isolate to hide everything else and show where that item is located, often hidden inside something else. The other option that works well to see small items is Exploded view. I'm unaware how those view functions work on an iPad.

 

[Logsplitter]

I was playing with this a bit today. On a windows PC you can right click on an item in the parts list and select Isolate to hide everything else and show where that item is located, often hidden inside something else. The other option that works well to see small items is Exploded view. I'm unaware how those view functions work on an iPad.

Perfect. It does work on the iPad. I just hadn’t sussed that yet. Even better for the parts list.
Just click on the three lines at top left for options.

 

[Clark Kent]

Perfect. It does work on the iPad. I just hadn’t sussed that yet. Even better for the parts list.
Just click on the three lines at top left for options.

Yep. Once I remembered I also have an iPad (brainfart...) I gave it a go and it works well.
This is the RHD front axle but same thing.

For those playing along at home, exploded view and isolate are handy features.

 

[NQ94]

Does the manual have a special service tool list. May need a few for some common jobs.

 

[Clark Kent]

Does the manual have a special service tool list. May need a few for some common jobs.

There is a list of 135 SSTs in the IPC. Listed by PN and name but no illustrations or photos and no cross reference to where they are used.

 

[Logsplitter]

Yep. Once I remembered I also have an iPad (brainfart...) I gave it a go and it works well.
This is the RHD front axle but same thing.

For those playing along at home, exploded view and isolate are handy features.

View attachment 7906281

View attachment 7906283

Thankyou. That makes it much easier to compile my parts list

 

[Clark Kent]

Thankyou. That makes it much easier to compile my parts list

I'll keep looking for a simpler way to cross reference the parts lists to the diagrams. If you were to take a screenshot of the diagram and the parts list you could just put the item number next to the part in the diagram instead of the full part number. Using the example of my last swivel hub pic above, just write 220 next to the o-ring instead of GRA-5E00-021390. That will tidy it up a bit and reduce transcribing errors but it's still a very tedious way to do it.
The Hide feature can be used to remove items from the parts list and the diagram temporarily. That helps. Crap like clips and brackets, etc.

 

[NQ94]

There is a list of 135 SSTs in the IPC. Listed by PN and name but no illustrations or photos and no cross reference to where they are used.

135 SST out of that there is only a few most people who do their own work would need.

 

[NQ94]

Something to look for is if they have a section with kit numbers or an assembled component part number that are also listed as a group of separate parts. This can make buying parts considerably cheaper than ordering individual components to complete a task.

 

[slukell]

I'll keep looking for a simpler way to cross reference the parts lists to the diagrams. If you were to take a screenshot of the diagram and the parts list you could just put the item number next to the part in the diagram instead of the full part number. Using the example of my last swivel hub pic above, just write 220 next to the o-ring instead of GRA-5E00-021390. That will tidy it up a bit and reduce transcribing errors but it's still a very tedious way to do it.
The Hide feature can be used to remove items from the parts list and the diagram temporarily. That helps. Crap like clips and brackets, etc.

I was thinking of just drawing lines between the list and the exploded views for ambiguous things, but I guess it quickly gets kind of messy.. Example below.

It would be great if the tool could just have an option to display an item/part number label next to each item in the view..

 

[globalgregors]

135 SST out of that there is only a few most people who do their own work would need.

A set of torx sockets is the only thing that I’d prefer to have but don’t. That and a long 1/4” extension. Can make do with regular sockets but right tool for the job etc. Going to see if I can source a set in Quito.

 

[Logsplitter]

I’ve just learnt it’s a 41mm socket for the wheel hub nuts

 

[Itsdchz]

It is truly amazing the videos present to walk you through procedure.
I have learned how easy it truly is to strip the entire front bonnet, fenders and trim. My body shop wouldn’t touch it. I am supplying a new fender, and removing the old one, having shop color match, and reinstalling myself.. If it will take 45 minutes, I’d be surprised. Very modular vehicle, just like to old LR Camel Trophy rigs. Easy middle-of-nowhere fix or removal…

 

[255/85]

Yep. Once I remembered I also have an iPad (brainfart...) I gave it a go and it works well.
This is the RHD front axle but same thing.

For those playing along at home, exploded view and isolate are handy features.

View attachment 7906281

View attachment 7906283

I see that you've selected the O-Ring (220) and it looks to be a slightly different color. What I'm not understanding is why the wheel speed sensor is a brighter yellow? Different part group or?

 

[Logsplitter]

Depending on what you’ve clicked on parts change colour On some of the drawings the parts are brightly coloured. A lot of the parts go light blue when identified and other go brown or yellow
It’ll all make sense when you get the access. It takes some getting used and slow but gets easier with use.

.

 

[MattA]

It is truly amazing the videos present to walk you through procedure.
I have learned how easy it truly is to strip the entire front bonnet, fenders and trim. My body shop wouldn’t touch it. I am supplying a new fender, and removing the old one, having shop color match, and reinstalling myself.. If it will take 45 minutes, I’d be surprised. Very modular vehicle, just like to old LR Camel Trophy rigs. Easy middle-of-nowhere fix or removal…

Just a tip in case you hadn’t considered it, you should do a dummy fit of the new guard before sending it off to get painted just to ensure everything lines up properly and all the gaps are correct and even.
Nothing worse than trying to adjust a poorly fitting panel after it’s painted

 

[Itsdchz]

Just a tip in case you hadn’t considered it, you should do a dummy fit of the new guard before sending it off to get painted just to ensure everything lines up properly and all the gaps are correct and even.
Nothing worse than trying to adjust a poorly fitting panel after it’s painted

Good thought! I will do just that, appreciate the advice! Thank you!