Windshield replaced - need advice

[shiv.nandak]

So i just had the windshield replaced at a dealer that is 3.5hrs away. I noticed that the windshield was not aligned properly. It was too low on the bottom passenger corner and almost (or even touching) the frame. It was also a little short on the top passenger corner and did not go under the rain gutter. I also noticed the top rain gutter piece that should be replaced was wavy and not stuck down properly on the entire roof side edge.

When i brought this up, i was told that it is hard to get alignment right and they will break clips trying to fix the windshield alignment (what clips?). Also regarding the top rain gutter - i was told that they didn’t want to risk removing previous adhesive for the fear of damaging paint. Thinking back i realize this was bs because the rain gutter just uses double sided tape leaves no residue? My concern about possible water leaks from the gutter was also dismissed.

I was too tried to even think because i had to drive home 3.5 hrs. So i picked up the car and started driving. Once i went past 50mph hour there was a horrible metallic rattle, what could cause this? I took it back to the dealer, dropped it and drove home with the loaner.

After paying $2300 for a windshield replacement, i have zero confidence that the work will be re-done properly. Also, it is ALWAYS impossible to talk to my advisor or anyone in service. Does anyone have any idea what could cause the noise? And any advice on how to navigate this situation would be appreciated.

 

[IslandFalconer]

Call the dealership, don’t ask for service, ask for either the fixed operations manager, or the general manager.Explain your problem, you aren’t satisfied, it’s not a proper repair. The glass can be removed and re installed and a new top trim can be installed. Go above your advisor.

 

[MileHigh]

Is the dealer still the only place to get the glass done? My insurance company is sending the repair to Safelite. I told them I don’t think they have that kind of glass. Considering the agent didn’t know what the car was, I would’ve thought it might have sparked something. Safe light is supposedly going to get back to me.

 

[IslandFalconer]

Is the dealer still the only place to get the glass done? My insurance company is sending the repair to Safelite. I told them I don’t think they have that kind of glass. Considering the agent didn’t know what the car was, I would’ve thought it might have sparked something. Safe light is supposedly going to get back to me.

Dealer only in the Americas so far.

 

[shiv.nandak]

Is the dealer still the only place to get the glass done? My insurance company is sending the repair to Safelite. I told them I don’t think they have that kind of glass. Considering the agent didn’t know what the car was, I would’ve thought it might have sparked something. Safe light is supposedly going to get back to me.

I tried satellite, but they said that they could not program the ADAS. The dealer is the only choice, but the two dealers I talked to outsource to local companies. I believe anyone can replace the actual windshield, but the dealer does the ADAS calibration.

 

[MileHigh]

I tried satellite, but they said that they could not program the ADAS. The dealer is the only choice, but the two dealers I talked to outsource to local companies. I believe anyone can replace the actual windshield, but the dealer does the ADAS calibration.

I’m hoping that Safelite will be upfront with that. Interesting that they even have the glass.

If ADAS isn’t calibrated, what it the downside? Constant warnings and errors?

 

[shiv.nandak]

I’m hoping that Safelite will be upfront with that. Interesting that they even have the glass.

If ADAS isn’t calibrated, what it the downside? Constant warnings and errors?

When I had the dealer replace the windshield a second time, they did not put the Adas module back on properly. This caused a bunch of Adas related lights. So I know if it is installed incorrectly you will have warnings. However, I am not sure if the ADAS calibration is necessary or not.

 

[MileHigh]

When I had the dealer replace the windshield a second time, they did not put the Adas module back on properly. This caused a bunch of Adas related lights. So I know if it is installed incorrectly you will have warnings. However, I am not sure if the ADAS calibration is necessary or not.

I have a $0 deductible glass insurance. My wife deals with all that, but here in CO, it is crazy how many windshields we go through. I’m worried that if these windshields are expensive and need replacing often, I’ll lose that glass package. Which I could understand, especially if it is dealer only replacement.

When I called Safelight, they knew what an Ineos was- but it isn’t on their website as an option, so it must be on their edge of their experience.

 

[LeeroyJ]

When I cracked mine, my insurane company USAA directed me to Safelite. Safelite said they didn't have the car in their system and therefore couldn't order me a replacement.

Since I could only buy it from the dealer, and at that time there wasn't a dealer in Phoenix, I drove to San Diego (about 5.5 hours) bought the windshield. Mossy didn't have the capability back then to install the windshield. So I took it home (another 5.5 hours) and then called Safelite. After some arguing and escalation, Safelite sent a guy out to install the windshield (at first they refused saying they are not allowed to install windshields they don't provide).

He arrived at my house and said that the rubber strip on top of the windshield is a consumable part and I needed to order a new one. The dealership ordered one and sent it to me. When the strip arrived, I called Safelite again and they came out and installed it.

Luckily the ADAS was fine and did not need to be recalibrated. However, I was told that the calibration equipment/procedure for Nissans is the same, so if it had not worked I was planning on taking it to a Nissan shop to see if they would give the calibration a try (I have not verified that information was correct).

At the end I collected all those receipts and sent them to USAA, including the receipt for the heat repellant window tinting I had previously installed (and subsequently re-installed). USAA paid every cent.

 

[MileHigh]

When I cracked mine, my insurane company USAA directed me to Safelite. Safelite said they didn't have the car in their system and therefore couldn't order me a replacement.

Since I could only buy it from the dealer, and at that time there wasn't a dealer in Phoenix, I drove to San Diego (about 5.5 hours) bought the windshield. Mossy didn't have the capability back then to install the windshield. So I took it home (another 5.5 hours) and then called Safelite. After some arguing and escalation, Safelite sent a guy out to install the windshield (at first they refused saying they are not allowed to install windshields they don't provide).

He arrived at my house and said that the rubber strip on top of the windshield is a consumable part and I needed to order a new one. The dealership ordered one and sent it to me. When the strip arrived, I called Safelite again and they came out and installed it.

Luckily the ADAS was fine and did not need to be recalibrated. However, I was told that the calibration equipment/procedure for Nissans is the same, so if it had not worked I was planning on taking it to a Nissan shop to see if they would give the calibration a try (I have not verified that information was correct).

At the end I collected all those receipts and sent them to USAA, including the receipt for the heat repellant window tinting I had previously installed (and subsequently re-installed). USAA paid every cent.

How much was the glass? I’d buy two next time with that kind of travel.

 

[LeeroyJ]

How much was the glass? I’d buy two next time with that kind of travel.

Now there's a dealer in Phoenix (Arrowhead Ineos) so the drive is only 45min. If I recall correctly the windshield was about $1700.

 

[MileHigh]

Ugh, safelight tells me that they have to basically get it from Ineos. That and it would take a couple months. So I reached out to my dealer and they said windshields are 2 to 3 months out. I’m thinking about buying a spare one.

 

[Empire Glass]

So i just had the windshield replaced at a dealer that is 3.5hrs away. I noticed that the windshield was not aligned properly. It was too low on the bottom passenger corner and almost (or even touching) the frame. It was also a little short on the top passenger corner and did not go under the rain gutter. I also noticed the top rain gutter piece that should be replaced was wavy and not stuck down properly on the entire roof side edge.

When i brought this up, i was told that it is hard to get alignment right and they will break clips trying to fix the windshield alignment (what clips?). Also regarding the top rain gutter - i was told that they didn’t want to risk removing previous adhesive for the fear of damaging paint. Thinking back i realize this was bs because the rain gutter just uses double sided tape leaves no residue? My concern about possible water leaks from the gutter was also dismissed.

I was too tried to even think because i had to drive home 3.5 hrs. So i picked up the car and started driving. Once i went past 50mph hour there was a horrible metallic rattle, what could cause this? I took it back to the dealer, dropped it and drove home with the loaner.

After paying $2300 for a windshield replacement, i have zero confidence that the work will be re-done properly. Also, it is ALWAYS impossible to talk to my advisor or anyone in service. Does anyone have any idea what could cause the noise? And any advice on how to navigate this situation would be appreciated.

I do the windshield installs exclusively for a large dealership in the southeast and it is possible the glass will move down if the tape is not sufficient while the urethane is curing behind the glass to the vehicle. What I have found to work best is utilizing the spacers on the removed glass (rubber piece approximately 5mm x 5mm x 20mm) between the bottom of the glass and the vehicle. By doing this if guarantees the gaping at the bottom is uniform all the way across. Adjusting the Y direction at the time of install is pretty simple and you are not working against gravity.

They may have attempted to reuse the original rain gutter but the $2300 covers a new one or they attempted to put the gutter on after the windshield install (very difficult). I put the seal on the glass with primer and urethane, allow that to cure as an assembly and install the set. This allows the hard part, seal over glass, to be perfect before the install. Only thing left is to peel the cover of the double sided tape and press it in. A small about of double sided tape residual may remain on the vehicle, I just make sure its free of dirt. That tape on the new gutter will stick to clean paint and clean tape residue.

The clip is actually the guide pins found on the bottom corners of the glass. Most, if not all, installers will remove those on the new glass as its almost impossible to align the pins to the guide holes when setting into wet urethane. The robot setting the glass at the factory can always go to the exact XYZ position so its not an issue at OEM level.

As for the rattle, when cutting the glass out of the vehicle the installer should do their best to cut between the clip and the double sided tape that holds it on. Likely (and it happens to me too), the installer broke the clip causing the pin portion (think of the pin like a chess pawn piece, bottom attached to glass, top is the tip of the alignment pin) to fall into the vehicle and creating a rattle sound. When I break the clip i make sure to recover all the pieces.

 

[shiv.nandak]

I do the windshield installs exclusively for a large dealership in the southeast and it is possible the glass will move down if the tape is not sufficient while the urethane is curing behind the glass to the vehicle. What I have found to work best is utilizing the spacers on the removed glass (rubber piece approximately 5mm x 5mm x 20mm) between the bottom of the glass and the vehicle. By doing this if guarantees the gaping at the bottom is uniform all the way across. Adjusting the Y direction at the time of install is pretty simple and you are not working against gravity.

They may have attempted to reuse the original rain gutter but the $2300 covers a new one or they attempted to put the gutter on after the windshield install (very difficult). I put the seal on the glass with primer and urethane, allow that to cure as an assembly and install the set. This allows the hard part, seal over glass, to be perfect before the install. Only thing left is to peel the cover of the double sided tape and press it in. A small about of double sided tape residual may remain on the vehicle, I just make sure its free of dirt. That tape on the new gutter will stick to clean paint and clean tape residue.

The clip is actually the guide pins found on the bottom corners of the glass. Most, if not all, installers will remove those on the new glass as its almost impossible to align the pins to the guide holes when setting into wet urethane. The robot setting the glass at the factory can always go to the exact XYZ position so its not an issue at OEM level.

As for the rattle, when cutting the glass out of the vehicle the installer should do their best to cut between the clip and the double sided tape that holds it on. Likely (and it happens to me too), the installer broke the clip causing the pin portion (think of the pin like a chess pawn piece, bottom attached to glass, top is the tip of the alignment pin) to fall into the vehicle and creating a rattle sound. When I break the clip i make sure to recover all the pieces.

Thank you for the information. It has been 1.5 months since and i just got a chip and the whole windshield is cracked again. I don’t think my insurance is going to like me very much. And there were no cars in front of me when this happened.

 

[Shopkeep]

I do the windshield installs exclusively for a large dealership in the southeast and it is possible the glass will move down if the tape is not sufficient while the urethane is curing behind the glass to the vehicle. What I have found to work best is utilizing the spacers on the removed glass (rubber piece approximately 5mm x 5mm x 20mm) between the bottom of the glass and the vehicle. By doing this if guarantees the gaping at the bottom is uniform all the way across. Adjusting the Y direction at the time of install is pretty simple and you are not working against gravity.

They may have attempted to reuse the original rain gutter but the $2300 covers a new one or they attempted to put the gutter on after the windshield install (very difficult). I put the seal on the glass with primer and urethane, allow that to cure as an assembly and install the set. This allows the hard part, seal over glass, to be perfect before the install. Only thing left is to peel the cover of the double sided tape and press it in. A small about of double sided tape residual may remain on the vehicle, I just make sure its free of dirt. That tape on the new gutter will stick to clean paint and clean tape residue.

The clip is actually the guide pins found on the bottom corners of the glass. Most, if not all, installers will remove those on the new glass as its almost impossible to align the pins to the guide holes when setting into wet urethane. The robot setting the glass at the factory can always go to the exact XYZ position so its not an issue at OEM level.

As for the rattle, when cutting the glass out of the vehicle the installer should do their best to cut between the clip and the double sided tape that holds it on. Likely (and it happens to me too), the installer broke the clip causing the pin portion (think of the pin like a chess pawn piece, bottom attached to glass, top is the tip of the alignment pin) to fall into the vehicle and creating a rattle sound. When I break the clip i make sure to recover all the pieces.

Given your experience in the windscreen trade do you have any views on why the Grenadier windscreen cracks so easily often without any apparent impact point? Guess it’s good for business, but very frustrating for owners.

 

[DaveB]

I just received the invoice for my recent windscreen replacement.
Seems you guys do it differently in the US as I would never go to a car dealer to get a windscreen replaced here in Australia.
There are huge numbers of specialist companies that replace or repair windscreens and as in my case they didn't get the glass from Ineos.
They do have to get the trim from the top of the windscreen from Ineos.
Normally insurance covers 1 free windscreen replacement a year and as many others as needed but you have to pay the excess.

 

[bakepl]

I just received the invoice for my recent windscreen replacement.
Seems you guys do it differently in the US as I would never go to a car dealer to get a windscreen replaced here in Australia.
There are huge numbers of specialist companies that replace or repair windscreens and as in my case they didn't get the glass from Ineos.
They do have to get the trim from the top of the windscreen from Ineos.
Normally insurance covers 1 free windscreen replacement a year and as many others as needed but you have to pay the excess.

View attachment 7897717

Did they use Ineos glass Dave? Replaced mine about 2 months ago and they could not source non genuine but I recall someone mentioned they are available now?

 

[DaveB]

Did they use Ineos glass Dave? Replaced mine about 2 months ago and they could not source non genuine but I recall someone mentioned they are available now?

They used non-genuine GTE brand.
Looks the same to me.

 

[Empire Glass]

Given your experience in the windscreen trade do you have any views on why the Grenadier windscreen cracks so easily often without any apparent impact point? Guess it’s good for business, but very frustrating for owners.

I agree, the design and application has a fault because they always seem to break in the same pattern, center bottom up to about halfway then they go towards the driver side (RT side drive) and back down, like a lower case n. Without seeing the installation at the OEM I cant say for certain but I don't like the placement of the spacers they use behind the glass relative to the height of the factory applied urethane. The spacer may be creating a point of stress as the urethane pulls the glass in as it cures. I don't use the spacers when replacing and have had zero returns with the same break pattern. Could just be luck but I've replace around 50 so far. Prior to owning my auto glass replacement business I was a supplier quality engineer in the automotive industry for 21 years with glass as my specialty commodity so this problem speaks to me and I would love to resolve this as much as the owners (even at the loss of business).

 

[Karearea]

They used non-genuine GTE brand.
Looks the same to me.

Might even be higher quality given some comments on other threads! Hope it works out.