What did you do with your Grenadier today?

[landmannnn]

It's getting in and out on the nearside in light trousers that causes the passenger side whine rather than the length of the journey. The inside of the Grenadier is quite clean and doesn't cause marking on the back of the leg. Another nearside whine can be caused by the design of the Buzz Overland side steps. They have nice little round holes on them to let the water out. Perfect diameter to get a high heel stuck in and snap off on exiting the vehicle. That causes a very loud loud noise that is distinctly audible from the drivers seat.

Assuming like me, your glovebox is full of cosmetics, have you tried reaching over and popping it open?
That reduces noise levels for a good 10 minutes.

 

[CRH]

Assuming like me, your glovebox is full of cosmetics, have you tried reaching over and popping it open?
That reduces noise levels for a good 10 minutes.

Have any of you tried duct tape, I'm considering the idea for the longer drives

 

[Bayford]

Assuming like me, your glovebox is full of cosmetics, have you tried reaching over and popping it open?
That reduces noise levels for a good 10 minutes.

Good idea. Thank You . I will have to invest in the mirror first. I assume that without this the rest of the noise reduction plan caused by the glovebox accessories won't function. As with so many things you have to follow the correct sequence

 

[Bayford]

Have any of you tried duct tape, I'm considering the idea for the longer drives

I thought about it but am being careful post # Me Too

 

[CRH]

I thought about it but am being careful post # Me Too

I blew the kiss to the noise on that basis, but I also know she would be the one to have me tied up in the boot, and not in a good way. As she says, her way of saying 'I love you' is not to smother me in my sleep.

 

[beefs]

A cosmetic change but I swapped out the aluminium roof grab rails with 3mm wall thickness 25mm OD matte carbon tube.

I was wanting a dark/gunmetal grey anodised colour but it’s difficult to find so I gave these a go. I’m happy with the result.

Photo shows one original rail and one new rail.

 

[Clark Kent]

Doughnut day (M&M spare wheel cover).
The cubby contains:
1 litre of premix coolant
1 litre of engine oil
600ml demineralised water
Synthetic chamois
Diluted washer fluid in a trigger bottle
Windscreen squeegee and brush
Bag of microfibre cloths
Bag of nitrile gloves
Spare tyre valve caps


Also got the PPF done on top of the front fenders - in lieu of checker plate which I'm not keen on - and down over the covers above the headlamps.
It's a bit of stone and scuff protection, nothing more.

 

[MrMike]

Continuing my post above, one CV hotfix kit ready to go. Just add hand tools, rags and sweary words.

• pre-greased CV
• cap gasket cemented in place
• two sets of class 12.9 cap screws (16)
• bolt tabs
• new boot clamp plus spares
• new shaft circlip plus spares
• tube of Loctite 243
• extra CV grease
• Purpose built two-bolt puller to remove the old CV (if needed)

I've gone with class 12.9 industrial socket head cap screws because the factory torx screws have been known to break during removal which I think might be related to the red thread locker used at the factory. If they have used Loctite 263 or an equivalent it needs heat to release it.
I'll use medium grade Loctite 243 which is still suitable for M8 at ~45Nm finished torque but it only needs hand tools to undo it.

Again, this is just insurance for a worse-case self-recovery scenario. I'm running standard height suspension so a driveshaft or CV failure should be warrantable.

I'm happy to loan this kit to Australian forum members on a replace-what-you-use basis. Provisos are that I don't need it at the same time and you collect and return it promptly or pay postage both ways.
DM me with dates if you're interested. It will be available from 3rd April (Good Friday).

View attachment 7922015

What a top bloke you are, can I pinch this list and post it to our whatsapp group? We have a "remote spare parts" list but this would be a fantstic addition to it

 

[Clark Kent]

What a top bloke you are, can I pinch this list and post it to our whatsapp group? We have a "remote spare parts" list but this would be a fantstic addition to it

Go ahead. Thank you for asking.
The puller is the only thing not off the shelf. I'll update my post with some pics and deets for that shortly. Easy to make in a home workshop.
This is the Crown brand CV from Summit. Same part as the Teraflex CV.

 

[MrMike]

Go ahead. Thank you for asking.
The puller is the only thing not off the shelf. I'll update my post with some pics and deets for that shortly. Easy to make in a home workshop.
This is the Crown brand CV from Summit. Same part as the Teraflex CV.

Cheers, we have a guy who sorces parts for our group at extremely good prices and I've asked him if he can put together a "kit" which contains a the items listed.

 

[MrMike]

Go ahead. Thank you for asking.
The puller is the only thing not off the shelf. I'll update my post with some pics and deets for that shortly. Easy to make in a home workshop.
This is the Crown brand CV from Summit. Same part as the Teraflex CV.

I'm still considering covering my CV with an IFS boot to see if that works, extra insurance IMO and could potentially be a permanent solution

 

[Clark Kent]

I'm still considering covering my CV with an IFS boot to see if that works, extra insurance IMO and could potentially be a permanent solution

When I spoke to the dude at Proformance (Perth) he said an external boot would not work because the grease would fling out of the joint into the boot and stay there. The internal boot keeps the grease in the joint.

By my calcs the driveshaft is doing about 2800rpm at 100km/h (62mph). That's 4.1 times faster than the axle shafts on our diffs (4.1 ratio) so it's quite a different environment to IFS.
I think Dokatd and others have said similar about a bellows style IFS CV boot.

 

[MrMike]

When I spoke to the dude at Proformance (Perth) he said an external boot would not work because the grease would fling out of the joint into the boot and stay there. The internal boot keeps the grease in the joint.

By my calcs the driveshaft is doing about 2800rpm at 100km/h (62mph). That's 4.1 times faster than the axle shafts on our diffs (4.1 ratio) so it's quite a different environment to IFS.
I think Dokatd and others have said similar about a bellows style IFS CV boot.

Thanks for the info, good to know. Looks like it's the replacement boot for me when the time comes

 

[Clark Kent]

Thanks for the info, good to know. Looks like it's the replacement boot for me when the time comes

If your guy can source the boot that Teraflex and Crown use this job could be a lot cheaper. If you catch it early enough the CV bearing unit will be undamaged. Wash it if necessary, repack it with grease, replace the boot (it's part of the front housing) and stick it back in.

 

[Skydance]

Am I getting old when I tell you I get excited from finding the right hot water bottle which fits perfectly with no rattling, one handed open flip top operation, keeps water hot for 10 hours for my precious brew and most importantly I got them cheap from TK Maxx . Thermos

 

[CRH]

Am I getting old when I tell you I get excited from finding the right hot water bottle which fits perfectly with no rattling, one handed open flip top operation, keeps water hot for 10 hours for my precious brew and most importantly I got them cheap from TK Maxx . Thermos

Do all thermos/water bottles come from TK Maxx

 

[Skydance]

No just the last seasons stock. Same thing as you would buy online or Amazon. I’ve come to the conclusion that Stanley, Thermos and some other brands comes from same manufacturer in China with slightly different designs. With Stanley you paying for the current trend.

Do all thermos/water bottles come from TK Maxx.