Wet feet

[rovie]

Just use some alcohol wipes to clean the area, heat gun to warm up the adhesive and stick back down. Job done. Don’t need to put holes in the seals. Done mine and never come off since.

Exactly. That's how I did it too.

 

[Shaky]

Update on this - I had both front door seals replaced earlier in the week for supposedly newer updated ones - they do not have the half moon in them so I questioned it and was told they were the correct ones.

First heavy rain last night - and guess what - WET FEET - seems I will be getting the scissors out again to self modify these seals!

What a complete waste of time and effort on both the agent and my time.

Oh, and by the way I also have a leaking rear door seal - water runs down the inside of the large rear window

Simon did you ever get your rear door seal/leak sorted ??

I have had this intermittently since new, and have been pouring (no pun intended) with the service manager today. Having given this far more attention than before, I have found a probable culprit.

Look at the back roof as it drops down towards the rear doors. There are two body lines ( a small recess) that goes down onto and under the back door top seal on the body. One lines up where the two doors meet, the other one is above the big door and matches up directly where I get drips of water on the inside trim.

A flat seal with a 3-4mm wide gap under it doesn’t look good for sealing.

At the same time of looking I also noticed the (big) back door seal is coming adrift near the bottom as it curves with the door shape. Having read about other stuck bits of trim coming loose and/or falling off, I have a deep suspicion that the double sided tape my not be as good a quality as we would like and is starting to give up the ghost as time goes on OR the surfaces were not clean enough/contaminated when applied !!

Ineos are now saying that ny door seals with a loose surface of 120mm is a new seal and anything less is a stick back with LOCTITE 466 glue. Although I have no idea what 466 glue is tbh.

 

[ECrider]

Simon did you ever get your rear door seal/leak sorted ??

I have had this intermittently since new, and have been pouring (no pun intended) with the service manager today. Having given this far more attention than before, I have found a probable culprit.

Look at the back roof as it drops down towards the rear doors. There are two body lines ( a small recess) that goes down onto and under the back door top seal on the body. One lines up where the two doors meet, the other one is above the big door and matches up directly where I get drips of water on the inside trim.

A flat seal with a 3-4mm wide gap under it doesn’t look good for sealing.

At the same time of looking I also noticed the (big) back door seal is coming adrift near the bottom as it curves with the door shape. Having read about other stuck bits of trim coming loose and/or falling off, I have a deep suspicion that the double sided tape my not be as good a quality as we would like and is starting to give up the ghost as time goes on OR the surfaces were not clean enough/contaminated when applied !!

Ineos are now saying that ny door seals with a loose surface of 120mm is a new seal and anything less is a stick back with LOCTITE 466 glue. Although I have no idea what 466 glue is tbh.

four 66pct of the time it works every time!

 

[Simon C]

Simon did you ever get your rear door seal/leak sorted ??

I have had this intermittently since new, and have been pouring (no pun intended) with the service manager today. Having given this far more attention than before, I have found a probable culprit.

Look at the back roof as it drops down towards the rear doors. There are two body lines ( a small recess) that goes down onto and under the back door top seal on the body. One lines up where the two doors meet, the other one is above the big door and matches up directly where I get drips of water on the inside trim.

A flat seal with a 3-4mm wide gap under it doesn’t look good for sealing.

At the same time of looking I also noticed the (big) back door seal is coming adrift near the bottom as it curves with the door shape. Having read about other stuck bits of trim coming loose and/or falling off, I have a deep suspicion that the double sided tape my not be as good a quality as we would like and is starting to give up the ghost as time goes on OR the surfaces were not clean enough/contaminated when applied !!

Ineos are now saying that ny door seals with a loose surface of 120mm is a new seal and anything less is a stick back with LOCTITE 466 glue. Although I have no idea what 466 glue is tbh.

It's going in for it's first service in a couple of weeks so hopefully will get sorted then!

 

[Deekayy]

Just use some alcohol wipes to clean the area, heat gun to warm up the adhesive and stick back down. Job done. Don’t need to put holes in the seals. Done mine and never come off since.

Thanks. That's a valuable advice. Will try.

 

[wolftimj]

I've got the boot washer option on the passenger side. Don't see a definitive fix for it yet, correct me if I'm wrong.

 

[RY-Journeyman]

I've got the boot washer option on the passenger side. Don't see a definitive fix for it yet, correct me if I'm wrong.

Got mine fixed yesterday. Seems the fix is with new adhesion promoter and reattach by agent. Seems to be working for most folks now that the process is established and has clear instructions for agents to follow.

 

[Shaky]

I've got the boot washer option on the passenger side. Don't see a definitive fix for it yet, correct me if I'm wrong.

Look at post 382, that is the definitive fix according to Ineos Automotive.

As @RYAustralia says new glue, which Ineos have told the agents which one and told them to go buy it themselves or should I say “source locally”

Loose seal over 120mm in length where the failure is, is a new seal. I don’t think anyone looking for a new seal would promote more of a failure than 120mm though

 

[wolftimj]

Look at post 382, that is the definitive fix according to Ineos Automotive.

As @RYAustralia says new glue, which Ineos have told the agents which one and told them to go buy it themselves or should I say “source locally”

Loose seal over 120mm in length where the failure is, is a new seal. I don’t think anyone looking for a new seal would promote more of a failure than 120mm though

Ok, thanks for that. I did find the forward lower part of the door seal not stuck to the paint. Stuck it back down after a little alcohol wiping. Gonna see if that's all it takes, otherwise back to dealer for a new seal.

 

[RY-Journeyman]

Ok, thanks for that. I did find the forward lower part of the door seal not stuck to the paint. Stuck it back down after a little alcohol wiping. Gonna see if that's all it takes, otherwise back to dealer for a new seal.

I took mine back for patch fixing last week, patched bits held but other parts of seal have now come loose. Am booked in for a complete new seal and re-glue using the new adhesion promoter and glue - which should hopefully finally be the end of this annoyance.

 

[Skydance]

I really find it odd that this issue hasn’t been put to bed on the newer vehicles and not rectified under the PDI. Do they not learn?

 

[IGL]

I really find it odd that this issue hasn’t been put to bed on the newer vehicles and not rectified under the PDI. Do they not learn?

No, they do not learn. Their motto is like:
Never change a running system - however it runs.

 

[RY-Journeyman]

I really find it odd that this issue hasn’t been put to bed on the newer vehicles and not rectified under the PDI. Do they not learn?

The grenadier door seals have red adhesive tape. The fieldmaster door seals have white adhesive tape. So they clearly do change. Not sure what the difference is but mechanic is gonna find out for me.

 

[Tom109]

The grenadier door seals have red adhesive tape. The fieldmaster door seals have white adhesive tape. So they clearly do change. Not sure what the difference is but mechanic is gonna find out for me.

Which works better?

 

[RY-Journeyman]

Which works better?

Too new to tell yet. The field master has only just been delivered to the agent.

 

[wompser]

I've got the "bootwash" problem too, on the driver's side. Reading through this thread, I'm still a bit confused as to the solution. I have double checked the seal all the way around the door, and it does not seem to have any areas that are loose or needing more adhesive. My seal already has the "half moon" holes in it (presumably factory?) to drain water, but it's still dumping a few cups of water everytime I open the door after it rains.

Does anyone have a picture showing where I should check more closely for a loose seal? it seems like an easy solution would be just to make a "dam" with adhesive wherever the water is getting in... I'm just not clear on where exactly the problem is.

 

[Karearea]

I feel for you!
This issue is simple but frustrating as it seems never to be solved
Personally I initially tried to re-glue mine with the top end UHB I think 3M double sided stuff. Didn’t work sadly.
Eventually “allowed” the modified cutout to be done and reglued by the dealer.
Whilst this has worked I do NOT agree that it should be necessary to allow water out that shouldn’t even be there!
Others here have pointed to incorrect placement of the seals in place on the door which causes misalignment with the contour of the receiving body . As a result water drops down the A pillar and finds its way into the space between the seals. Water then either pools, or escapes through the newly made cutouts. I know that water is still doing this as traces of dirt and dust appear where it shouldn’t be all the way up the hinge side of the door.
I know I’m not helping much here but the TSB shows the process of assessing correct placement of the door seal using I think blue chalk dust. Maybe try this or other options unless your dealer is close by in which case just keep returning for remedial treatment! It’s a know issue and I believe usually dealer rectified under warranty.
Mine will be looked at again when next in Auckland!
Good luck and please report back

 

[Clark Kent]

I feel for you!
This issue is simple but frustrating as it seems never to be solved
Personally I initially tried to re-glue mine with the top end UHB I think 3M double sided stuff. Didn’t work sadly.
Eventually “allowed” the modified cutout to be done and reglued by the dealer.
Whilst this has worked I do NOT agree that it should be necessary to allow water out that shouldn’t even be there!
Others here have pointed to incorrect placement of the seals in place on the door which causes misalignment with the contour of the receiving body . As a result water drops down the A pillar and finds its way into the space between the seals. Water then either pools, or escapes through the newly made cutouts. I know that water is still doing this as traces of dirt and dust appear where it shouldn’t be all the way up the hinge side of the door.
I know I’m not helping much here but the TSB shows the process of assessing correct placement of the door seal using I think blue chalk dust. Maybe try this or other options unless your dealer is close by in which case just keep returning for remedial treatment! It’s a know issue and I believe usually dealer rectified under warranty.
Mine will be looked at again when next in Auckland!
Good luck and please report back

That's a good steer from @Karearea.

@wompser: A copy of the TSB is in the resources section, see here. It's worth a read for the chalk transfer method to determine if seals are correctly attached and located, and also for the repair/replace criteria that IA advise to dealers.
If your seals fail inspection I would be getting a warranty fix if that's convenient, else re-glue them (Loctite 406) as per the TSB.

A similar test I have used is to trickle water into the drip rail (roof gutter) when the vehicle is parked nose down. Use a slow garden hose, a watering can or a jug, etc. The extruded bumper closure cap at the front of the drip rail becomes a dam and directs water into the gap between the A pillar and the door window frame. That water can end up in the void between the inner and outer door seals. Give that a shot as well. It might be the source of your boot wash water and especially if you park facing downhill.
That doesn't explain why it's not draining out. The notch cuts in the outer seals are supposed to do that.

 

[YIPPE]

100% it's water tracking down a pillar against the seals. I still can't understand a solution is to cut seals. (Now they arrive with this, or dealer completes the cuts) If water gets out these cuts, water would surely get in too. It was explained to me that the seal they cut is the door seal. Not the body seal. And so the body seal is still good enough to keep all water out.... However others without the cut have reported water in the footwells and big dumpings of boot wash. Which would mean the void between both seals fills enough to spill into the car. My solution is going to be some sort of seal along A pillar. To guide water down the pillar and away from seals. Hopefully won't look too hideous.