Build Thread The Lobster, DaneJa's overlanding build

[Fast Tractor]

The Benchmark Vehicles roof rack is installed and it's pretty great.

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Did you have Juniper Overland install the rack? They are doing several things for mine as well.

 

[DaneJa]

Did you have Juniper Overland install the rack? They are doing several things for mine as well.

They did, yeah. I didn't think I could get the thing up there solo. First time hiring them. No issues at all, they seem to know their business

 

[DaneJa]

I've been a bit slow to update this thread, but I haven't been totally idle.

@ColoradoMike and I worked together to get our Owl Vans Pro-Line Skid Plates installed. I won't rehash my review of the skids, but suffice it to say they are very nice but it was a long day of work to get them installed. More about our experience with the skids here. I'll throw some additional images from the install here.

Removing the OEM tank skid and cross-brace was trivial.

I trimmed the bolts in the middle section of the new cross-brace that secure the transfer case so they would not protrude lower than the skid plates. The two above are trimmed, the two below untrimmed in this photo.

Installing this rear skid was far from trivial. The front skid was easy. The diff skids were simple, but even on a new truck the threads needed to be cleaned of rust.

I also installed the differential breather kit offered by Agile Offroad while crawling around under the truck. It's pretty difficult to get pictures of the tube routing, so I didn't. The instructions are a bit vague in the explanation of where to route the tubing, especially the front diff tubing, so it took a bit of poking around to avoid any hot or moving elements. I followed the lower control arm rearward, then routed it to the outboard side above the wheel well to avoid the steering shaft and steel coolant lines. The rear is easy, just follow the lower control arm, then the cluster of tubing and wiring on the frame rail, and finally follow the same path to the engine bay.

 

[Tom109]

NATO plug weatherproofing:
It's likely not as large a concern here in Colorado, but many forum members have had issues corrosion causing the NATO plug cap to be difficult to remove. Following some ideas/recommendations from a thread on the subject, I picked up a 2" rubber gasket from McMaster-Carr to at least deflect some water from the threads and applied silicon lubricant to the threads. Doesn't look like there is any sort of seal or gasket on the cap from factory, so I may add a thin gasket inside the cap later.

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Check inside the cap. It is a NATO referenced item and it should be rubber lined that seals upon closure. That's how mine came and I have an earlier vehicle. My cap also has a silver anti seize paste, possibly from the dealer, but still super tight. I threw a little petroleum jelly on and snugged it up.