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Build Thread The Lobster, DaneJa's overlanding build

Did you have Juniper Overland install the rack? They are doing several things for mine as well.
They did, yeah. I didn't think I could get the thing up there solo. First time hiring them. No issues at all, they seem to know their business
 
I've been a bit slow to update this thread, but I haven't been totally idle.

@ColoradoMike and I worked together to get our Owl Vans Pro-Line Skid Plates installed. I won't rehash my review of the skids, but suffice it to say they are very nice but it was a long day of work to get them installed. More about our experience with the skids here. I'll throw some additional images from the install here.

Removing the OEM tank skid and cross-brace was trivial.

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I trimmed the bolts in the middle section of the new cross-brace that secure the transfer case so they would not protrude lower than the skid plates. The two above are trimmed, the two below untrimmed in this photo.

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Installing this rear skid was far from trivial. The front skid was easy. The diff skids were simple, but even on a new truck the threads needed to be cleaned of rust.

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I also installed the differential breather kit offered by Agile Offroad while crawling around under the truck. It's pretty difficult to get pictures of the tube routing, so I didn't. The instructions are a bit vague in the explanation of where to route the tubing, especially the front diff tubing, so it took a bit of poking around to avoid any hot or moving elements. I followed the lower control arm rearward, then routed it to the outboard side above the wheel well to avoid the steering shaft and steel coolant lines. The rear is easy, just follow the lower control arm, then the cluster of tubing and wiring on the frame rail, and finally follow the same path to the engine bay.

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NATO plug weatherproofing:
It's likely not as large a concern here in Colorado, but many forum members have had issues corrosion causing the NATO plug cap to be difficult to remove. Following some ideas/recommendations from a thread on the subject, I picked up a 2" rubber gasket from McMaster-Carr to at least deflect some water from the threads and applied silicon lubricant to the threads. Doesn't look like there is any sort of seal or gasket on the cap from factory, so I may add a thin gasket inside the cap later.

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Check inside the cap. It is a NATO referenced item and it should be rubber lined that seals upon closure. That's how mine came and I have an earlier vehicle. My cap also has a silver anti seize paste, possibly from the dealer, but still super tight. I threw a little petroleum jelly on and snugged it up.
 
The folks at Red Noland have been great to work with. They did some paint touch-up on 2 spots that were flawed on delivery and they centered up the steering wheel that was slightly off center. I'm quite satisfied with the steering now, no change needed.

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Abenteuer 4x4 Rock Sliders:
Installing the sliders was not quite as easy as I'd hoped. They posted a video showing how to do the installation. I installed the first slider according to their instructions and had a bit of a hard time. Some of the bolts are quite hard to access and it's hard to hold some of it all together with just two hands. I installed the second slider a bit differently -- I attached the mounts loosely to the slider rails before attaching the mounts to the frame and found it much easier. The only other deviations I made from their instructional video were to use a multi-tool to trim the plastic bits in the wheel wells, I used some anti-seize on the bolts, and I followed the lessons learned by @TheDocAUS and used 50mm bolts to ease installation of the front mount and added some square washers to the frame mount bolts. If you're going to install these, make sure you have a 17mm offset box wrench, ideally a ratcheting one. I did not and it made the job much more difficult. I'm very happy to have this install completed.

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One of my main concerns with these sliders before ordering was that the inner rocker is not overly protected. It's still a bit of a concern, but the rocker is above both the slider and the frame rail, so the only way it will be hit is if one tracks the tires over a particularly pointy rock that exceeds the break-over angle. It's very much a possibility, but also wouldn't be the end of the world. Looks like it would be pretty easy to bolt some steel over the thing using those holes all along it, but I likely won't bother.

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The step is narrow, but just wide enough.

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Wow that under belly shot is not impressive looking at all. You’d have to hack something together to bolt on more stuff to fully protect the body. Why would they make this with such major deficiencies
 
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Wow that under belly shot is not impressive looking at all. You’d have to hack something together to bolt on more stuff to fully protect the body. Why would they make this with such major deficiencies
Probably because it isn't an issue. I spent the last 3 days bouncing off of them and sliding across them on rocky trails and nothing has touched the rockers. Not to say it isn't possible for a large pointy rock to get in there just right, but if hasn't happened yet I'm not going to worry about it.
 
I've mostly been using the truck for what it's meant to do, but I have done some small projects.

Climair Wind Deflectors
I installed these so I can crack the windows when it's raining, particularly when I opt to sleep in the truck. I really like them except for the damnable sticker they put on there. I still need to get at it with a heat gun to try and remove them. The installation was as simple as it gets: stuff them in the window gap at the top and attach the metal retaining clip to the body panel, under the rubber seal, then on the forward-lower edge of the wind deflector.

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Tougher Seat Covers
I only have a couple bad pictures at night, but the covers fit nice and tight after pulling the straps tight and doing some material stuffing and, I think, make the seats more comfortable. I pulled the edges of the driver side covers tight after this picture to remove those small folds. The passenger was nice and tight, despite how it looks in the shadows in the picture.

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Owl Pro-Line Skid Plates -- bolt head protector addition
I added some tapered bolt head protectors from Rock Hard 4x4 to a couple vulnerable bolts on the mid-frame bracket that attaches the left side of the aft skid plate. As a side note, I've been abusing the hell out of these skid plates and they're holding up very well. I've done a couple full-weight slides across them and the scratches on the UHMW plastic are much smaller than I expected. It will be along time before that plastic needs replacement.

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Morrflate Compressor Mount
Behind the drawer fridge there is a space perfectly sized for a compressor. I couldn't put anything in the space for fear it would move around and damage the fridge, so I decided I would hard mount the compressor to make the most of the space. I was going to order an ARB Brushless Twin, but I already have this one, it flows more air, and it looked like I would have to pre-order the ARB and wait.

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Making the mount was easy. I ordered the same aluminum extrusion components that Air Down Gear Up uses from TNUTZ, which made it very easy since they will cut, drill, and tap everything to your specs. I ordered two lengths of extrusion to span the gap (which I had to sand down a couple mm since I got my measurements slightly off) and the hardware to attach them. When I removed the base plate I found the Morrflate used M8 hardware there, which was perfect for the slot nuts to mount to the extrusion. That meant I could reuse the bolts, spacer, and rubber vibration dampers from the base plate.

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It was a tricky getting everything assembled in place since I didn't want to remove the cargo platform. I fed the air line and power cable to the rear under the fridge and secured them loosely to that side with cable retainers so I can pull out the slack to use them. At some point I may wire the compressor it, but for now I'm satisfied to use the NATO-Anderson cable I made and power it from the NATO plug.

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As I mentioned in the last post, I've mostly been using the truck since the undercarriage has been armored (random smattering of pictures at the end). The truck has been performing exceptionally. Though I came close once or twice, I haven't managed to get it stuck. The gate keeper on Red Cone is the hardest obstacle so far, everything else has been easy with some use of the armor. I have recovered a couple other vehicles along the way, though. Still, I am greatly looking forward to the eventual release of Dissent Offroad's front bumper to have the peace of mind provided by a winch. I am also very much considering the aux fuel tank as the OEM one doesn't go very far.

For those familiar with Colorado trails, here are the ones I've done so far. I haven't made it down the San Juans yet as I understand there to be a lot people on those trails, but I will at some point.

Rainbow Falls Road
Longwater Gulch
Cedar Mountain Road
West Stump Road
Westcreek Road
Ramble Road
Upper Geneva (Geneva Creek)
Devils Canyon
Saxon Mountain Road
Cascade Creek
Coney Creek Road (aka Coney Flats)
Middle St. Vrain
Caribou Creek (South)
Moon Gulch
Apex Valley Rd
Dakota Hill
Gamble Gulch Connector
Michigan Hill
Utah Hill
Apex Valley Rd
Elk Park Rd
Yankee Mosquito
Yankee Hill Rd
Hamlin Gulch
Lamartine Rd
Red Cone
Webster Pass

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How do you like the outbreak?
 
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