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Ronny Dahl Bought a Quartermaster

This is like having to take up an Open University course just to figure out how to rescue someone, I'll just tell them I don't have a rope🤣
 
This is like having to take up an Open University course just to figure out how to rescue someone, I'll just tell them I don't have a rope🤣


Rightly or wrongly, if the guys stuck don’t have a proper recovery point, I won’t ever snatch someone out just securing a strap randomly. I’ve seen a bullbar get ripped off a 4wd, and a shackle slam into the back of a wagon and lodge into the roof. Not going to be responsible for that.
 
100%. I once saw a guy trying to recover a stuck pickup truck in a telehandler with a strap around the ICBM, sorry the towball.

‘Kin thing went into orbit
 
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This is a good discussion about why the Ineos Grenadier/Quartermaster are expensive but WORTH IT if you use just cost of purchase from dealer as argument and plan on doing any offroading with them. Once you kit out a 70 series to have all the things you can get from factory on Ineos you might actually spend MORE...
View: https://youtu.be/hDawQZcwkAM?si=Ts0iyYyH4IXbdoc3
 
I prefer the bolted on recovery points for light vehicles and road trucks. Most damage or distortion occurrs to the eye of the recovery point due to some change or unexpected movement in the recovery even with bridals, general wear or fatigue from multiple recoveries. Very rarely we see chassis damage from correctly bolted on recovery points. A damaged point welded to the frame requires cutting and welding and depending on the factory design this may not be recommend on some vehicles. Most owners or service departments don't check the integrity of a recovery point until it's too late. We regularly inspect and non destructive test recovery points with a crack testing dye kit, the easiest method, or magnetic particle testing. On machinery and vehicles the replacements are welded on by certified weldors. We do a lot of recoveries and post recovery equipment inspections during wet season.
The other point missed in many recovery videos is there is no mention of inspecting equipment at the time of recovery or derating of rigging in certain recovery scenarios. Most slings and shackles are rated for straight line pulls soon as there is angle or reeving involved the equipment has to be derated. Some rigging combinations will increase the loads on a recovery point beyond the weight of the car or terrain factors.
 
Please explain because I am stupid/completely new to proper 4x4. Is the rating per recovery point or both, would using both increase the rating. Are they any lower/higher/same as the ones that get added by aftermarket companies on on things like a Jeep or Prado Landcruiser. How do you decide if something is too heavy, vehicle is under the weight but bogged down.
How do I decide what shackles, straps and ropes to use?
Sorry for all the questions, I had a light weight tow rope from a previous vehicle but when I tried dragging a large Mercedes estate that had got grounded it started to fray so had to leave it to the farmer to go back home for better ropes. I have now got rope and straps that are excess of 12t, if i remember rightly. The soft shackles are less i think.
Excellent point: equipment load ratings are as much a function of what you’re going to be prepared to recover as they are about the needs of your vehicle.
 
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Regarding Ronnie's "Flaw" video, it is indeed a flaw. I loathe that I cannot fully disengage ESC, and still maintain any semblance of speed. When I first got the Gren and went to Ocotillo Wells, Blowsand Hill bested me. Just could not get up that sand hill. Now, with the lift and bigger tires fitted, it may be possible (will know when dessert season arrives), but I'm skeptical. And with the lift, the damned ESC/ABS kicks in on pavement when going too fast around a bend. It's disconcerting to have the ABS kick in in that circumstance, and feels much more unsafe than the extra sway. Hopefully one day, they'll be enough of these things on the road to get some true aftermarket SW adjustment/tuning.

I saw in the video comments, some were advocating for just pulling the ABS fuse. Anyone try this? I'm wary of popping a code that requires a dealer visit.
 
I was attempting to climb a steep wet clay track last year. Front and rear lockers were engaged, in auto, foot to the floor. RPM maxed out yet the vehicle went no higher than 5th gear. My comment in the video was “it just seemed to die in the arse”.
It is almost like some kind of protection mechanism kicks in and retards the engine. The main screen also indicated “ABS and ESC OFF”.
 
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